A brakes question.

Rockhopper

Rockhopper

Senior member
 Mansfield
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I’ve done loads of jobs on cars over the years but one that I’ve always stayed away from is changing brake fluid/callipers/hoses etc on anything relative modern that’s got ABS. I just see that I’ll be stuck with a car I cannot move when it all goes wrong.
So, I need to change the front callipers on my car, what’s the easiest way to bleed the brakes taking into account that I’m on my own so no helper to press the pedal.
Cheers.
 
piece of see through tube on the caliper/clutch slave and wait till you have someone who can press the pedal.. Ive got one of those pressure bleeders, but find it much, much simpler doing it the old tried and proven way.
 
If you're on your own then @ARCS 's solution is a pretty good one. I have found that it is worth giving the pedal a couple of pumps as well tbh.
If you keep the reservoir topped up you won't have any effect on the ABS system anyway. Changing a calliper is a very simple job and you'll hardly lose any fluid. Crack the hose connection on the calliper before you unbolt it from the hub, just a half turn will do. Then have the replacement calliper to hand, hold the hose still and spin the old calliper off and the new one one. Nip the hose up fully tight then use the pressure bleed kit.
With practice, changing both callipers (front or rear), including wheels off and on again, can be done in well under an hour.
 
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I've used the Laser single cup bleed thing since Abraham was in nappies and it's perfect for one man use. Hardest bit is emptying the cup every 10 pedal presses.

www.lasertools.co.uk

Laser Tools 2906 Brake Bleed Catch Bottle Kit

Brake fluid catch bottle, also known as a capture bottle or receiver bottle, for use during the automotive brake bleeding process.
www.lasertools.co.uk www.lasertools.co.uk
 
Vanne said:
piece of see through tube on the caliper/clutch slave and wait till you have someone who can press the pedal.. Ive got one of those pressure bleeders, but find it much, much simpler doing it the old tried and proven way.
Click to expand...
I live on my own so I'd have to grab someone who happens to walk past my house
:)
 
I do this on my own no help needed

As per martins summary the only thing I would add is once the calliper is freed off I use a piece of wood to depress the brake pedal. That stops any fluid creed pack up the pipe to the ABS unit (minimal risk but keeps me happy)
 
Hmm, i typed a long reply but it didn't post for some reason.

I had a Gunsons Eezibleed years ago but the ball bearing has rusted solid - I like the idea of pressure bleeding so I'll get the thing linked to above by ARCS just in case I need it.

It might just be seized on the pins so I'll have a look later on as I need the car for tomorrow. If its the piston then I have a wind back kit so that and some red rubber grease might be enough for a short term fix.

I've only got to drive the five miles each way to the office...

Cheers everyone!
 
bigwinn said:
I do this on my own no help needed

As per martins summary the only thing I would add is once the calliper is freed off I use a piece of wood to depress the brake pedal. That stops any fluid creed pack up the pipe to the ABS unit (minimal risk but keeps me happy)
Click to expand...
That is a good method, but tbf wasn't what I meant. I was saying that even with the pressure bleed kit I find I can shift the last few bubbles with a pedal pump or two.
 
I bought a pipe with a valve in the end couple of years ago that works, put it in a jar with some fluid in the bottom. :thumbsup:
 
I’ve tried various of the dribble in the bottle techniques..they all work to a lesser / greater extent..

But..

The pressure bleeder is on a different level..and.,because it’s so easy to use and effective single person you’re likely to do a proper purge thsn just Fanny around with a couple of pumps of the brake pedal…but of course it’s £50 to buy…imho
 
Tripods work great as 3rd legs.

Leave the old caliper still connected until the new one is in position and quickly switch the banjo bolts over. Then open the bleed nipple on the new caliper and gravity bleed. Once you see fluid, tighten it up and put the tripod / whatever between the steering wheel and brake pedal. Open the bleeder and remove the air. Repeat a couple of times.
 
A piece of cling film under the filler cap has worked for me when replacing calipers. Helps to stop the fluid running out.
 
Rockhopper said:
The one in post two is only £21ish. Two callipers for £40 and I'm sorted!
Click to expand...

Even more compelling!

I spent years struggling with various botches / work arounds rather than invest in the ‘proper’ tools..

I appreciate it’s all extra money …and hardly ever used…but…no regrets..
 
Rockhopper said:
I’ve done loads of jobs on cars over the years but one that I’ve always stayed away from is changing brake fluid/callipers/hoses etc on anything relative modern that’s got ABS. I just see that I’ll be stuck with a car I cannot move when it all goes wrong.
So, I need to change the front callipers on my car, what’s the easiest way to bleed the brakes taking into account that I’m on my own so no helper to press the pedal.
Cheers.
Click to expand...
Have done a lot of brake jobs over the years. Did my fronts recently - new rotors, calipers, pads, new braded steel lines and new Dot6 fluid into the reserve. I used a brake fluid caliper pump (front a kit) to 'suck' the new fluid into the caliper -no one pumping the pedal - and all is fine. You can watch the fluid color change as you pump it. Kit had lots of extras that were of no use, but the pump with the provided plastic hose which fit the bleed screw was fine. Smooth as as silk, stopping is progressive like you want.
 
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enuff_zed said:
If you're on your own then @ARCS 's solution is a pretty good one. I have found that it is worth giving the pedal a couple of pumps as well tbh.
If you keep the reservoir topped up you won't have any effect on the ABS system anyway. Changing a calliper is a very simple job and you'll hardly lose any fluid. Crack the hose connection on the calliper before you unbolt it from the hub, just a half turn will do. Then have the replacement calliper to hand, hold the hose still and spin the old calliper off and the new one one. Nip the hose up fully tight then use the pressure bleed kit.
With practice, changing both callipers (front or rear), including wheels off and on again, can be done in well under an hour.
Click to expand...
Depending on how lucky you are with how easily things come apart!
 
tiglon said:
Depending on how lucky you are with how easily things come apart!
Click to expand...
Well yes, but once the wheel is off you only need to remove the two sliding pins. Then crack the union where the flexi hose goes into the calliper before lifting the calliper off the carrier. This way you have the calliper held securely while you tweak the flexi hose. Difficult to do it if it's tight, with it all supported in your hand.
Obviously you cannot simply twist the flexi pipe round and round, so by holding it you can spin the calliper off.
Fitting; as all the best manuals say; is the reverse of removal.
 
I concur with the earlier comment about cling film stretched over the master cylinder and then screw the cap back down. The idea goes back donkeys years and works. A quick bleed afterwards using easy bleed or similar completes the job.
 
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