Ah yes, you and Gregory_tolson are right - the gap is between the two layers. Been a while since i worked on a non-M. That upper layer is obviously quite a serious structural component when you look at the bolt spec, so I guess the lower layer is to some extent sacrificial.That’s not actually correct. The reinforcement plate is a two layer bonded aluminium construction. The topmost layer sits flush against the cross member, there is no clear air. There is 5mm or so clear air between the two layers. The stamped rectangle is deformable by design, so that the bottom
layer retains its structure when the car is jacked from this point. If you use the correct jacking puck, the deformation can almost be avoided altogether.
That's what I did except I made a steel "puck", works great.I have been thinking about a design where you cut a round hole (say 60mm) through the deformation rectangle in the bottom layer, then screw a similar sized rubber puck through the top layer into the cross member (there is a M10 or M12 threaded hole in the cross member at exactly the right point). Then you have a permanent jacking point very similar to the Z4M.
Apart from the material, that’s exactly what I had in mind.That's what I did except I made a steel "puck", works great.
Show off!This is how I lift mine.
Always has to be one in the crowd!This is how I lift mine.
Got ya lol, it’s probably the longest video on jacking a car up on Jack stands on all of YouTube lol. Hoping it gives hope to the people nervous doing it their first timeThat was like watching paint dry, sorry OP.
Now I have similar and love it.Five minutes..... done!View attachment 287045