Meds 3.0si Coupe - Rear brake upgrade in progress.
- Thread starter Meds
- Start date
Yes, very handy. Having the materials sitting around gives the motivation to get these little jobs done.
I had a day off work, had the paint ready, so got to it.
I also painted the windscreen washers in gloss black, while they were off to polish the car a few weeks back. They came out really good. nobody would notice but I do.
I had a day off work, had the paint ready, so got to it.
I also painted the windscreen washers in gloss black, while they were off to polish the car a few weeks back. They came out really good. nobody would notice but I do.
The horrible rubbery coating BMW loved to use on the E series interiors was starting to look a little rough and a bit sticky to touch.
I removed it all on my previous 130i so knew what to expect, a good few hours of scrubbing and rubbing with panel wipe (alcohol cleaner)
Steering wheel disassembly was OK, removing the airbag and all the plastics and I got to work. Horrible job.
Yuk:
Like new:
I removed it all on my previous 130i so knew what to expect, a good few hours of scrubbing and rubbing with panel wipe (alcohol cleaner)
Steering wheel disassembly was OK, removing the airbag and all the plastics and I got to work. Horrible job.
Yuk:
Like new:
More cosmetic faffery.
Wire wheel on the drill, then the Dremel to remove all the surface rust, degrease then panel wipe, then some high temperature paint that I was given by a neighbour ages ago. Not a bad job at all.
I've no idea how durable the paint will be but anything is better than the rust. I painted it on rather than sprayed as, to be honest I couldnt be bothered to mask everywhere up.
I didn't want to get any paint on the pads either, so a small paintbrush worked well.
Crusty!
New pad springs:
Lovely:
Wire wheel on the drill, then the Dremel to remove all the surface rust, degrease then panel wipe, then some high temperature paint that I was given by a neighbour ages ago. Not a bad job at all.
I've no idea how durable the paint will be but anything is better than the rust. I painted it on rather than sprayed as, to be honest I couldnt be bothered to mask everywhere up.
I didn't want to get any paint on the pads either, so a small paintbrush worked well.
Crusty!
New pad springs:
Lovely:
Scottish Borders
Something I've been meaning to do for a while, blue seat belts.
I found a company just down the road who change the belt while you wait. I spent Sunday evening removing all the rear interior trims to get to the mechanism behind the seats. This morning I handed over the old black belts and within 30mins, they were back with me.
They look really good.
I found a company just down the road who change the belt while you wait. I spent Sunday evening removing all the rear interior trims to get to the mechanism behind the seats. This morning I handed over the old black belts and within 30mins, they were back with me.
They look really good.
Meds said:The horrible rubbery coating BMW loved to use on the E series interiors was starting to look a little rough and a bit sticky to touch.
I removed it all on my previous 130i so knew what to expect, a good few hours of scrubbing and rubbing with panel wipe (alcohol cleaner)
Steering wheel disassembly was OK, removing the airbag and all the plastics and I got to work. Horrible job.
Yuk:
Like new:
I need to do this on the M
So panel wipe and something to agitate with- remove all the top coating
Does that leave the matt finish underneath?
Any top tips?
bigwinn said:
It's a kind of a satin and very hard wearing, also resists finger prints very well. No idea why they coated the touch points with that rubbery stuff.
It doesnt age well and gets softer and stickier as the years pass, increasingly so.
Both my 130i's from the same age had it, too. (I also removed it)
Anything alcohol, panel wipe or petrol removes it, much elbow grease needed and eventually it removes, it's not a pleasant task, I admit. The stuff hangs on and smears. Just when you think you've got it all, you find some more.
Well worth the effort, though.
I attended the ZedNation 2025 show at Gaydon, British Motor Museum.
Well done to Luke for organising and getting everything sorted for the day, over 50 Zeds attended!
Picked up 2nd place for the 'Best in Show' competition, beaten by 1 point.
^^ From Nath
^^ From Nath
^^ From Nath
Full photo set, here:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/aLEVFtrgV6a4ji9i8
Well done to Luke for organising and getting everything sorted for the day, over 50 Zeds attended!
Picked up 2nd place for the 'Best in Show' competition, beaten by 1 point.
^^ From Nath
^^ From Nath
^^ From Nath
Full photo set, here:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/aLEVFtrgV6a4ji9i8
I seem to spend far too much time taking wheels on and off so I thought I'd try some of those fancy wheel studs, hopefully to make the process easier, as everyone says it does.
I'm not fully convinced yet, I actually found it easier to previously line up the 'hole with the hole' and then get a bolt quickly screwed in. A technique I had nailed after many years of doing this.
Now, I need to line up all 5 studs with the wheel, all at the same time. I see the benefit if running spacers.
I'm sure I'll get used to it.
A very nervous first drive, imagining the studs have loosened somehow.
M12x1.5x75mm x 20, with a few drops of Loctite on each of the threads that go into the hub.
Torque up the studs, I went for 30nm.
Let the loctite to cure for a few hours. Then install the wheel and nuts to the usual spec (I go 140nm)
I'm not fully convinced yet, I actually found it easier to previously line up the 'hole with the hole' and then get a bolt quickly screwed in. A technique I had nailed after many years of doing this.
Now, I need to line up all 5 studs with the wheel, all at the same time. I see the benefit if running spacers.
I'm sure I'll get used to it.
A very nervous first drive, imagining the studs have loosened somehow.
M12x1.5x75mm x 20, with a few drops of Loctite on each of the threads that go into the hub.
Torque up the studs, I went for 30nm.
Let the loctite to cure for a few hours. Then install the wheel and nuts to the usual spec (I go 140nm)
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The Coupe had a trip to the mechanic for some scheduled work.
Oil service - No problems.
General check - All good, commented how solid and clean it all was, nice! (Apart from the front damper pinch bolts, they need swapping out due to corrosion)
MOT - FAIL!!! Front ARB drop link bushing dust sheild no longer protecting against dirt ingress.
MOT after new drop links - PASS
Suspension - Eibach Pro installed back on the front. 31331135590 spring pads from a 740i were added, in theory they should raise the front by 6mm (but they will squash down a touch I assume).
It looks perfect, I estimate about 10mm lower than stock Msport (I forgot to get a before measurement).
With the Eibach Pro I had rubbing issues (well documented on here with my numerous forum threads about it) which made for a terrible experience. Putting back stock Msport solved this 100% but I wanted to try something to get the Eibach working.
I'm not convinced the 10mm spring pads will be enough to solve this completely, and tbh, for the effort required to put them back on, I should have just kept the stock M Sport up front for complete piece of mind. Time will tell.
Oil service - No problems.
General check - All good, commented how solid and clean it all was, nice! (Apart from the front damper pinch bolts, they need swapping out due to corrosion)
MOT - FAIL!!! Front ARB drop link bushing dust sheild no longer protecting against dirt ingress.
MOT after new drop links - PASS
Suspension - Eibach Pro installed back on the front. 31331135590 spring pads from a 740i were added, in theory they should raise the front by 6mm (but they will squash down a touch I assume).
It looks perfect, I estimate about 10mm lower than stock Msport (I forgot to get a before measurement).
With the Eibach Pro I had rubbing issues (well documented on here with my numerous forum threads about it) which made for a terrible experience. Putting back stock Msport solved this 100% but I wanted to try something to get the Eibach working.
I'm not convinced the 10mm spring pads will be enough to solve this completely, and tbh, for the effort required to put them back on, I should have just kept the stock M Sport up front for complete piece of mind. Time will tell.
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What’s the detail on the studs mate- got a link to them?I seem to spend far too much time taking wheels on and off so I thought I'd try some of those fancy wheel studs, hopefully to make the process easier, as everyone says it does.
I'm not fully convinced yet, I actually found it easier to previously line up the 'hole with the hole' and then get a bolt quickly screwed in. A technique I had nailed after many years of doing this.
Now, I need to line up all 5 studs with the wheel, all at the same time. I see the benefit if running spacers.
I'm sure I'll get used to it.
A very nervous first drive, imagining the studs have loosened somehow.
M12x1.5x75mm x 20, with a few drops of Loctite on each of the threads that go into the hub.
Torque up the studs, I went for 30nm.
Let the loctite to cure for a few hours. Then install the wheel and nuts to the usual spec (I go 140nm)
Thx
M12x1.5x75mm
Wheel Stud Conversion Kit MINI Cooper S JCW R50 R52 R53 - M12x1.5 x 75mm Black | eBay UK
16 x stud and nuts to convert your MINI from bolts to studs. These screw into your hub with an allen-key. All studs are made from 10.9 steel. The thickness of the brake disc and wheel is approx 20mm.
ebay.us
Those guys should do it.. ^^^
Edit: you'll need 20 of them.
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