Roof service past error A6A5 and trunk stuck open shells in but not latched

khalidfh

khalidfh

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Hello fellow Z4 owners,

I'm seeking help with my 2011 BMW Z4 E89 SDrive 23i. My retractable hardtop has been malfunctioning. This started while ago. Sometimes it did it initiate while opening or closing, I leave the hardtop at that position either closed or opened for a week or two, then it working fine, but they persist.
Last time a month before when it was in closed position, I try open the roof, both shells went into the trunk but the lid not closing. so i waited in that position for a week, but no luck. error like not latching then A6A5 code appears everytime I try to open or close the roof.
20250929_174039.jpg
I took it to two garages but they could not do anything. I think, after a technician attempted to fix it, I suspect the technician's method of lifting the shells without releasing pressure might have caused further issues. Now I'm stuck with a non-functional hardtop. roof service error appeared and no functioning what so ever. when I press the button I hear click but this message appears.

20251016_055009.jpg
Has anyone experienced similar issues? Any advice or guidance on how to fix this problem would be greatly appreciated.

I have INPA but I cannot find E89 I will try to find daten for it and add it.
Thanks in advance for your help!
 
Yet my car wires broke no where near the hinges.
Whole wire needs checking or just replacing by slicing in new wires as far as possible.
Until all cars have them changed, will always be problems.
 
Different car but same problem. My wife's focus CC had the same problem, took in twice to the garage and they 'repaired' the wire twice but kept happening. I don't think they knew really. Took it to a roof repair company in Torquay and they found broken wires so had the entire roof wires replaced and been fine since. (y)
 
MikeyH said:
Different car but same problem. My wife's focus CC had the same problem, took in twice to the garage and they 'repaired' the wire twice but kept happening. I don't think they knew really. Took it to a roof repair company in Torquay and they found broken wires so had the entire roof wires replaced and been fine since. (y)
Click to expand...
Could you tell me where you took it?

Also in Torquay
 
Hi dmsims, yes they are J Bowden Auto Services 01803 215850, Bridge Street, Torquay, TQ2 5AX. It's a very small place and parking is not great but they know their stuff. They are also on face book. They charge for a diagnostic before they do anything. We have used them twice now for different things and my father-in-law and brother-in-law for their Mercedes cars. It was cheaper and more convenient than travelling to the one in the London area. I think they are called Cayman Auto. (y)
 
MikeyH said:
Hi dmsims, yes they are J Bowden Auto Services 01803 215850, Bridge Street, Torquay, TQ2 5AX. It's a very small place and parking is not great but they know their stuff. They are also on face book. They charge for a diagnostic before they do anything. We have used them twice now for different things and my father-in-law and brother-in-law for their Mercedes cars. It was cheaper and more convenient than travelling to the one in the London area. I think they are called Cayman Auto. (y)
Click to expand...
Cayman Autos - Redhill, Surrey.
 
Wow, I wasn't expect that fast replies, thank you all.
My plan now is to open the trunk, try to reach the pump to release the pressure. Then lift the hardtop so I can check the wires. I will try to replace all wires, plan to do it November, but it seems one wire is now broken. I am a bit worried about the message "roof service" I wish it will be go away once I release the pressure and lift the hardtop.

I am in love with the Z4 since I was in school, so it dreams become true


i will work in it next week and keep you updated
 
If the boot/trunk can be opened, its and easy task to release the pump pressure and lift the rear clam shell...
Be aware tho, even with the clam shell lifted the top will be latched in and you wont be able to just lift it out.
I had exactly the same issue with mine....
Heres a link to my thread...you may find some useful tips there

K

Thread 'Roof stuck down , fully stowed - Sorted!'

Hi
End of last summer my wife came to pick me up with my car with the roof down, she said 'i couldnt get it to go back up'
So i parked it in the garage until drier days came along...
Drier days are here....Carly gives me the following code 'A68D - Microswitch, roof shell 2 closed, right' and a constant bong when ever i press the close roof switch.
I kind of know how to repair the fault, if only i can get to it.
All the windows are working fine and the boot opens and closes. i can get to the pump to release the hydraulic pressure.
How do i release the catches that allow the boot section to...

Mike
 
kinger said:
If the boot/trunk can be opened, its and easy task to release the pump pressure and lift the rear clam shell...
Be aware tho, even with the clam shell lifted the top will be latched in and you wont be able to just lift it out.
I had exactly the same issue with mine....
Heres a link to my thread...you may find some useful tips there

K

Thread 'Roof stuck down , fully stowed - Sorted!'

Hi
End of last summer my wife came to pick me up with my car with the roof down, she said 'i couldnt get it to go back up'
So i parked it in the garage until drier days came along...
Drier days are here....Carly gives me the following code 'A68D - Microswitch, roof shell 2 closed, right' and a constant bong when ever i press the close roof switch.
I kind of know how to repair the fault, if only i can get to it.
All the windows are working fine and the boot opens and closes. i can get to the pump to release the hydraulic pressure.
How do i release the catches that allow the boot section to...

Mike
Click to expand...
Thanks Mike,
Mine, I can lift the shells because roof not latched. But hydraulic pressure lock the movement. However I cannot open the trunk lid, so I will use inpa to override and unlock the lid so I can release the pressure and lift the shells. Then I can start investigating.
 
Update....

I could not open the trunk lid using INPA nor with ISTA+ so last night I gave up, but then tried and managed to put my hand through the gap and release the oil pressure. so no need to open trunk lid.
with ISTA I could not override the operation as well. but it shows A96a fault code somewhere when I did some test.
No fault code was red in the module.

I am a bit worried about "roof system" error on the dash board. when I press the open or close buttons I hear click but no action thats before I release the pressure

What to do next?
any advice will be much appreciated
thanks
 
You’ve proffered two different fault codes…have they changed..or are they both there?
 
B21 said:
You’ve proffered two different fault codes…have they changed..or are they both there?
Click to expand...
it was A6A5. Then I took it to two workshops with no success, one of them try to pull the two shells hard. So I decided to take it home and try fix it at home. First thing I noticed, fault code was cleared. However flashing red is still on. when I push the open or close button, click sound heard but no action and when I release the button "roof system" message appears on the screen. Then I tried to open the lid to release the pressure so I can lift the shells and can investigate the wires. I tried INPA but no success to connect to the car, then I tried ISTA+ and identification succeed with no faults on CTM. I tried to open the lid but could not, so i performed some tests and I went through some trials and one of them was this:
20251021_041658.jpg
not sure how did I get there.
any how, I gave up and brought 6mm Alen key and release one of the bolts which release lid pressure thankfully I already secured the lid, Now the lid can move freely. I tried to lift the shells but still there is pressure so I remove the foam cover over the pump to reach the second bolt and managed to release the pressure and lift the two shells from the trunk and placed to the top position. Now I can see clearly all wires. I am checking the wires for the top microswitches and hall sensors. first glance, no wire cuts on both right pillar and left pillar apart from isolation removed for the rear window heating. I noticed some oil on top of front roof shell "I think when the workshop try to force lift the shells and maybe this can explain why it is appeared "roof system".
This is the whole story till now and I don't have any plan....
 
Now you have the roof out of the boot, it might be worth tightening the screws back down on the pump, and trying the roof open and close buttons again to see if you get any movement of the roof or faults, if the roof starts moving you could keep switching between open and close and see if you get any pauses which could indicate a broken wire.
You can always open the boot using the pin 12 trick from the fuse box.
S

Thread 'This Pin 12 trick to open the boot'

Has been described a few times, example here in this thread.

https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1853940&hilit=trouble%2C+two#p1853940

I have the fusebox down but cannot see how the long connector comes off as in this photo at the bottom.
Does that clip at the end push out towards the green wire in my photo, or do I need to pull it down / up, squeeze it?
Doesn't seem to budge in any direction.
 
khalidfh said:
Update....

I could not open the trunk lid using INPA nor with ISTA+ ..
Click to expand...
The ignition has to be switched on for this step. JBE JunctionBox is the module to get the trunk lid unlocked.

khalidfh said:
... but it shows A96a fault code somewhere when I did some test.
Click to expand...
A96a is the internal name of the CTM in all circuit plans, no fault code.

khalidfh said:
error like not latching then A6A5 code appears everytime I try to open or close the roof.
Click to expand...
"Supply, end-position sensors"

Probably a short of one of the (coloured!) hallsensor power supply wires. These are bridged inside the CTM, so one faulty wire can affect several hallsensors in parallel.
Typically the yellow one on the rear roof shell, upper or inner bow, if nobody has touched it before.

If any garage has touched it already, the location is difficult to define.

khalidfh said:
Now I can see clearly all wires. I am checking the wires for the top microswitches and hall sensors.
Click to expand...
You can't. It's always in the non visual areas.

Have a look (U can translate the whole forum with translate google):

Was hast du heute gemacht mit deinem Zetti?

Danke :)
www.zroadster.com www.zroadster.com
 
Last edited:
RobbiZ4 said:
The ignition has to be switched on for this step. JBE JunctionBox is the module to get the trunk lid unlocked.


A96a is the internal name of the CTM in all circuit plans, no fault code.


"Supply, end-position sensors"

Probably a short of one of the (coloured!) hallsensor power supply wires. These are bridged inside the CTM, so one faulty wire can affect several hallsensors in parallel.
Typically the yellow one on the rear roof shell, upper or inner bow, if nobody has touched it before.

If any garage has touched it already, the location is difficult to define.


You can't. It's always in the non visual areas.

Have a look (U can translate the whole forum with translate google):

Was hast du heute gemacht mit deinem Zetti?

Danke :)
www.zroadster.com www.zroadster.com
Click to expand...
Thanks Robbi
I was waiting for your reply.

Yes your right cannot see clearly but can Investigate. I followed Chippie's advice. I tighten the two bolts with the two shells on top of each other and out of the trunk on close position but not latched yet to the top. The trunk is open "lid is locked".
I turn on the ignition and initiate closing, the button click but no action whatsoever. "Roof system" is appeared and no fault code. I look into live stream and when I press the button "closing or opening" it shows change in position. All other live stream no change. Is that mean a problem with fuses?
I used a scan tool not ISTA.
What should I do? I think even if I found the broken wire, system wont work....
Any help please??


BTW, I changed the two salmon relays three months ago. Following your advice Robbie. I was planing to do all your steps but plan to do it in November, warm weather here "summer over 40 C".
 
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