Uh oh. Bennys' first tantrum! WAYHAAAY We're back in business! :) EDIT: 2000 mile update.

Chris_D

Lifer
Mostly Holland. Sometimes UK.
Oh dear, was out for a walk in the woods today with my good ladyfriend Laura, got back to the car a few hours later, keys in cranked over, sprung into life but sounded very very different!
Engine was pulsing as though I was on and off the throttle but my foot was nowhere near the pedal. Didn't dare slipping into gear and letting off the clutch for fear of something going pop.
Switched off and plugged in my basic OBD reader. A whole plethora of codes came up:

P1633P - throttle body. (Is that the DISA problem i've read about?)
P1675 - 'throttle valve actuator start test adaptation'
P3240 - thermostat on the way out?
P0171 - bank 1,2,3 running lean. 02 sensor?
P0174 - same as above but bank 4,5,6

The last 3 codes were present before today and it was my intention to get new stat, waterpump and o2 sensor swapped in asap.
But the throttle body codes thrown up today are major cause for concern.
Anyone had similar problems, experience?

Managed to get the ANWB guy out (Dutch AA/RAC) and he reset the engine and managed to get it started and running ok again. Managed to drive all the way home normally but it won't start and run properly again- same pulsing engine experience.

Will get it booked into my local indie but will first try to diagnose repair myself. would be interested if anyone can shed any light?

Photo 29-08-2016 16 37 10.jpg
 
I would'nt give a tuppeny toss what was wrong with my car with Laura sitting in it.

She is one fine looking lady, you're batting way above your average there my friend.... :wink:
 
john-e89 said:
I would'nt give a tuppeny toss what was wrong with my car with Laura sitting in it.

She is one fine looking lady, you're batting way above your average there my friend.... :wink:

Hahha, i'll pass that on john. She'll be chuffed to bits...
 
Chris_D said:
john-e89 said:
I would'nt give a tuppeny toss what was wrong with my car with Laura sitting in it.

She is one fine looking lady, you're batting way above your average there my friend.... :wink:

Hahha, i'll pass that on john. She'll be chuffed to bits...

Just pulling your leg mate. :D

Nice to see such a lovely smile. :thumbsup:
 
john-e89 said:
Chris_D said:
john-e89 said:
I would'nt give a tuppeny toss what was wrong with my car with Laura sitting in it.

She is one fine looking lady, you're batting way above your average there my friend.... :wink:

Hahha, i'll pass that on john. She'll be chuffed to bits...

Just pulling your leg mate. :D

Nice to see such a lovely smile. :thumbsup:

It's aiight mate.
We're actually best friends for 15 years now. But you're right, I would be batting way above my average!
 
Multiple error codes can sometimes point to an old battery thats on its last legs. (btw - 'Betty' you've got to be kidding?)
 
Cant believe you drove all the way to Daves on your own :evil: http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=90194#
 
Marlon said:
Multiple error codes can sometimes point to an old battery thats on its last legs. (btw - 'Betty' you've got to be kidding?)

After reading various threads Ive got a feeling I'll be looking for a needle in a haystack on this one!
Managed to get home ok so will have a proper butcher's tomorrow.
And whats wrong with 'Betty'? It's as good a name as any. Was either that, or 'Brunhilde' :lol:
 
cherrym said:
Cant believe you drove all the way to Daves on your own :evil: http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=90194#

Alright cherry mate. Well, she could have come with but she's KLM cabin crew and was away on a flight that week sadly.
 
Try and keep the battey leads coupled through some jump leads if you change it as purely disconnecting can sometimes put the Z into transport mode and a trip to a dealer.
 
Sage advice Cherry.
However, Was advised that the battery was almost new. It's got Honda branding (?) see pic.
And the first 3 codes were active on the car when I bought it - got it priced down accordingly.

Photo 23-08-2016 12 33 39.jpg

The 3 codes relating to throttle body came on today and could have been exascerbated by my bodging back in of the secondary hose coming off the air inlet hose from the airbox. Will be checking all hoses as I did notice a feint whistling/chirruping sound previously. pic...

Photo 24-08-2016 11 13 43.jpg

But will also check battery condition. thx for the tip re jumpleads etc.
 
mr wilks said:
Have you checked the battery is the correct capacity ? That looks small to me :?
Will check it tomorrow wilksy. I did think to myself 'that's a bit titchy' when i saw it when i went looking for the hifi amp, located behind it in the battery well.
What should correct capacity be?
 
john-e89 said:
I would'nt give a tuppeny toss what was wrong with my car with Laura sitting in it.

She is one fine looking lady, you're batting way above your average there my friend.... :wink:
+1 :rofl:
 
Chris_D said:
mr wilks said:
Have you checked the battery is the correct capacity ? That looks small to me :?
Will check it tomorrow wilksy. I did think to myself 'that's a bit titchy' when i saw it when i went looking for the hifi amp, located behind it in the battery well.
What should correct capacity be?

Not had to replace any batteries as yet on any Z but would have thought around 70 / 75Ah / 650 - 700 CCA ?
 
Chris_D said:
mr wilks said:
Have you checked the battery is the correct capacity ? That looks small to me :?
Will check it tomorrow wilksy. I did think to myself 'that's a bit titchy' when i saw it when i went looking for the hifi amp, located behind it in the battery well.
What should correct capacity be?
This is mine - pic clearly shows capacity, but I believe there is a smaller one that's OEM as well. Anything around this should be fine.
A generic part number (I think you'd be mad to replace with a BMW battery) is DIN65ZLMF, but this may not translate to anything useful for where you are. A lot of UK members seem to spec Bosch S4 or S5 batteries, I think. Quick search of Z4-Forum should find plenty of hits for replacement batteries.

29046225720_8a08836db5_c.jpg
 
O dear its never nice when our cars go wrong.
The p1633 code and the hunting for revs sounds like what i have had issues with previously. Also the fact that the car was re set and then once switched off did the same thing. Now i am not saying its the same thing but is 100% worth looking at. If its the same as mine its an easy fix but not cheap. Basically you will need to buy a new throttle body (i have had pattern and BMW ones and there is no difference)

I have had to put 3 of them on my car and the reason they all died (i think i am at the bottom of the problem) Was a dodgy earth. the throttle body is just a flap that opens and closes relative to pedal position. Its controlled by a voltage. lets say 1 volt fully open 0 volts fully closed. If there is fluctuating volts the flap could be fully closed or open. And then it may try opening of closing further. This then causes the little plastic gear that drives it to strip its teeth. When this happens the flap then cant fully close like needed on start up and the car dose not know its position and then runs rough.

If you have the time. Try taking the inlet pipe off manually close the throttle flap with a long screwdriver. Replace the pipe work and reset the codes. If it starts up and runs and drives. But then when switched off runs rough. I would 99% say swap the throttle body problem fixed.

This what i used last time.
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/BMW_Z4+Roadster_3.0_2003/p/car-parts/fuel-and-engine-management/engine-parts/throttle-body-service-kit/?422110021&1&5e84c67d26b5099c7719be528fd31a6305ab5065&000329
 
I should add that you need to check you earth readings. There is one in the engine bay on the passengers side. And then one by the batter in the boot. My boot one had funny readings and just needed cleaning. I took me at least 3 body's and 2 years to figure that out :headbang: :headbang: :headbang:
 
Machine monkey said:
O dear its never nice when our cars go wrong.
The p1633 code and the hunting for revs sounds like what i have had issues with previously. Also the fact that the car was re set and then once switched off did the same thing. Now i am not saying its the same thing but is 100% worth looking at. If its the same as mine its an easy fix but not cheap. Basically you will need to buy a new throttle body (i have had pattern and BMW ones and there is no difference)

I have had to put 3 of them on my car and the reason they all died (i think i am at the bottom of the problem) Was a dodgy earth. the throttle body is just a flap that opens and closes relative to pedal position. Its controlled by a voltage. lets say 1 volt fully open 0 volts fully closed. If there is fluctuating volts the flap could be fully closed or open. And then it may try opening of closing further. This then causes the little plastic gear that drives it to strip its teeth. When this happens the flap then cant fully close like needed on start up and the car dose not know its position and then runs rough.

If you have the time. Try taking the inlet pipe off manually close the throttle flap with a long screwdriver. Replace the pipe work and reset the codes. If it starts up and runs and drives. But then when switched off runs rough. I would 99% say swap the throttle body problem fixed.

This what i used last time.
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/BMW_Z4+Roadster_3.0_2003/p/car-parts/fuel-and-engine-management/engine-parts/throttle-body-service-kit/?422110021&1&5e84c67d26b5099c7719be528fd31a6305ab5065&000329

Thanks for tips re battery guys. Will test for type and condition later today.

MachineMonkey: it sounds like the same problem u had. I take it the throttle body you refer to is the same as 'DISA valve' or 'DISA adjuster unit' as its often referred to?
If so, this was on my hitlist of things to inspect. The recovery guy yesterday showed me some of the codes he got on his reader/reset tool and there was a low voltage description for one of the codes.
Looking at the price on Eurocarparts from link u posted I would suspect its the same part. Would be great if you could confirm.
Saw a video of a guy repairing one with a kit on utube and tempted to give it a shot. I'm fairly handy with a spanner and usually do a lot of research/ risk analysis prior to tackling stuff (work in the nuclear industry so it's ingrained lol).
My intake elbow also recently gave up the secondary outlet port which could be causing vacuum issues so that's on order too.
Plus, there's an oil leak I spotted which will need to be addressed as I also had to top up with a litre during the recovery yesterday.
Trying not to let this sour my sunny outlook on 'new car optimism'...lol
 
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