Z4m stutter / hesitation
- Thread starter mitchk
- Start date
Mine too. Im certain it's just a characteristic of the vanos.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
somehow glad that its not just me but that doesn't solve anything 
Changed fuel brand but didn't make any real difference I don't think, but I'm interested in the coils as BMW now use a different supplier to what I heard were originally fitted ? BMW obviously changed supplier for a reason..
As I'm out of warranty at the moment I don't really want to be at the mercy of the dealer "swap everything" until something works atitude so will have to wait till it gets worse.
To be honest I used to think it was the CDV that caused a 1/10 bad takeoff but now I'm not quite sure - A couple of times I have noticed the revs die briefly resulting in a bit of a kangaroo :?
thanks for all the replys
mitch
If I had the guts I'd remove and clean the plugs and coils but wouldn't know where to start
Changed fuel brand but didn't make any real difference I don't think, but I'm interested in the coils as BMW now use a different supplier to what I heard were originally fitted ? BMW obviously changed supplier for a reason..
As I'm out of warranty at the moment I don't really want to be at the mercy of the dealer "swap everything" until something works atitude so will have to wait till it gets worse.
To be honest I used to think it was the CDV that caused a 1/10 bad takeoff but now I'm not quite sure - A couple of times I have noticed the revs die briefly resulting in a bit of a kangaroo :?
thanks for all the replys
mitch
If I had the guts I'd remove and clean the plugs and coils but wouldn't know where to start
Sue, no probs. My info was based on first hand experience of the negotiations between Tesco and Esso....so had a bit of an unfair advantage.
Mitch, the coil packs and plugs are a really easy job and the only special tool you could do with was is a torque wrench. It'd take about 2 hours from start to finish.
I've helped a friend with an E36 M3 with the same 3.2 engine.
[Edit]Mine is also a bit flat below 1800rpm in 2nd and 3rd [/edit]
Mitch, the coil packs and plugs are a really easy job and the only special tool you could do with was is a torque wrench. It'd take about 2 hours from start to finish.
I've helped a friend with an E36 M3 with the same 3.2 engine.
[Edit]Mine is also a bit flat below 1800rpm in 2nd and 3rd [/edit]
Liverpool
mine has done the same all the time iv'e had it.the car has been into the dealers a couple of times when under warranty but nothing found,i had the revs raised at tick over by 500 rpm and that seems to have helped but i think it's just a trate of the engine 
it can be a bit annoying tho!
it can be a bit annoying tho!I really don't think this is a coil pack problem. My old Boxster had a coil problem, and the symptoms were totally different.
IME, a CP problem usually gives a flat spot in the power curve under heavy load, what I experience isn't so much a flat spot, more a gearbox ratio problem for power delivery at very low RPM.
IME, a CP problem usually gives a flat spot in the power curve under heavy load, what I experience isn't so much a flat spot, more a gearbox ratio problem for power delivery at very low RPM.
I'm in for the full inspection2 (the one that really kicks your wallet in the knackers 
) service tomorrow, and have experienced the same symptoms as others so will ask the questions.
Just to note, inspection1 doesn't cover valve clearances as standard does it? Not something I remember being done.
I'm currently on 57k, and having done 40k in 19 months have to say the hesitation has definitely become more noticable over the last 10k. So hopefully it's consistent with what BMW expect and having the valves done, along with spark plugs, oils and filters will put the engine back to where it should be.
Will report back in the week with how I get on.
Alex
) service tomorrow, and have experienced the same symptoms as others so will ask the questions. Just to note, inspection1 doesn't cover valve clearances as standard does it? Not something I remember being done.
I'm currently on 57k, and having done 40k in 19 months have to say the hesitation has definitely become more noticable over the last 10k. So hopefully it's consistent with what BMW expect and having the valves done, along with spark plugs, oils and filters will put the engine back to where it should be.
Will report back in the week with how I get on.
Alex
Yes, Inspection I is supposed to include valve clearances, and the only way to ensure they're done is to stand over the technician as they do themaml_al said:
Alternatively, ask for the before & after clearance measurements when you book it it, and put a blob of high-temp sealant across the cam chest seal so you'll know if they've removed it or not.
Allegedly, some technicians are so perfect that they can just listen to the engine and decide whether to do the clearances or not, despite it being part of the cost of the inspection, just so they can save a few hour's labour to get on with other jobs where they will get a bonus for fitting more in per day.
Personally, I don't care whether they actually do the job or not, but if they're not going to bother, then I'd like them to be open about it and knock £400 off the inspection prices to cover the work they're not doing. Maybe offer a full inspection for £700 and one minus the clearances for £300
My last one took a day longer than expected as they didn't have a cam chest seal in stock for my inspection. Which is strange when you consider that if they do the inspection properly, they'll have to put a new seal on as part of the valve clearance checks (as you're not supposed to reuse it). It had been booked in with plenty of time for parts to come into stock. Maybe they thought they could get away with not doing the clearances and then saw my note about wanting a record of the before & after - or maybe they just damaged the one they had and needed to order a new one?
Well after giving my wallet a little cuddle after today's inspection2 raping I though I'd report back....
Had a bit of a chat with the bloke at Sytner Solihull this morning and explained the symptoms I get. Similar slight hesitation as the 1st post mentioned. And noticeable dip in revs below normal idle when pulling to a stop.
Have had an update to the engine management software installed. And the drive home seemed to be better. Will see how I get on over the next couple of weeks though as a 25 min drive is no way to properly determine if it's totally cured.
Al
Had a bit of a chat with the bloke at Sytner Solihull this morning and explained the symptoms I get. Similar slight hesitation as the 1st post mentioned. And noticeable dip in revs below normal idle when pulling to a stop.
Have had an update to the engine management software installed. And the drive home seemed to be better. Will see how I get on over the next couple of weeks though as a 25 min drive is no way to properly determine if it's totally cured.
Al
I used Tesco 99 in mine recently, having not used it for some time (for some reason I always ended up with Sainsbury's 97 in it). Found some rough running and hesitation that I don't recall from the 'old days' of Tesco 99. Maybe a return to Shell V-Power is in order, except my local Shell garage has closed down
For the last 25K miles mine has stuttered and hesitated as described above, and but did not register an error code.
Interestingly though, I had a lambda sensor changed about 3 weeks ago after the EML came on, and the idle is now much smoother and the stuttering much less marked than compared with before the EML came on. There is still some mild hesitancy, but nothing like before.
I wonder if the lambda sensors fail progressively below a threshold at which the EML iluminates, and it is an incipient failure that causes this hesitancy in the absence of error codes.
Of note, I use only Shell Optimax.
Interestingly though, I had a lambda sensor changed about 3 weeks ago after the EML came on, and the idle is now much smoother and the stuttering much less marked than compared with before the EML came on. There is still some mild hesitancy, but nothing like before.
I wonder if the lambda sensors fail progressively below a threshold at which the EML iluminates, and it is an incipient failure that causes this hesitancy in the absence of error codes.
Of note, I use only Shell Optimax.
interesting thread. Can't say I've really noticed anything but will have play.
How about engine flush and new spark plugs (I'm not very mechanical so may be talking out of my arse)? Our engines are not getting any younger and get plenty of use...
How about engine flush and new spark plugs (I'm not very mechanical so may be talking out of my arse)? Our engines are not getting any younger and get plenty of use...
Just a note that most cars if left to idle when warm won't rev cleanly with the first blip of throttle when static, just because the air in the intake is now full of warm air rather than the cooler outside air it was expecting. Used to be more of an issue with a bit of kangarooing in traffic on older cable throttle cars, but you still notice a slight hesitation as the computers compensate on most new machines. Only have to look at the heat haze over your bonnet to see how warm it gets under there. If you notice while driving make sure the car is warmed up and try changing to the sport button map and see if it works any differently (could be a throttle sensor reset needed if it does), know mine doesn't always throttle blip cleanly at low revs till warmed up.
Crusoe said:
I get this issue too. With sport mode off, a small blip of the throttle causes a bit of hesitation. Then if approaching a roundabout, if the revs are allowed to drop and you try to pull away in 2nd, the car can get bogged down and without putting the clutch in and revving it up a bit, I think it would probably stall.
Doesn't happen with sport mode on as far as I can tell.