Z4M OEM Airbox Lid Modified with Carbon Sheets

gwatson said:
Beedub said:
ever mesured underbonnet temps??? im not worried about the air flowing inside of the box....

Nope..... but you did get me checking the rating of the sealant and it's actually up to 250 degrees Celsius. You're surely not suggesting that it gets hotter than that given the average ambient temperature up here is about 14 degrees :o :o

http://www.granvilleoil.com/pdfTechData2.php?ptdID=134

wasnt suggesting anything.... just saying check the temp rating of the sealant..... :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :wink: :wink: :wink: without stating the obvious their as many plastic components under the bonnet so its PRETTY obvious the plastics arent melting.... keep yer wig on :poke: :poke: :poke:
 
I would say full marks for your experiment! :thumbsup:

It does not look bad except for the screws as noted by a previous post. Keep going Graham look forward to reading more about this topic. :D
 
Haha... wig is still attached :) I just thought it was an odd issue to raise :)

I decided to use screws as there are three angles going on and the carbon sheet only really wants to bend one way. I originally thought about bonding the carbon on, but not sure how I'd of secured the carbon whilst it set.

CSL airbox has screws, at least mine are black :)

csl_airbox1.jpg
 
Graeme,

I've had a few additional thoughts on your mod which might help you achieve your aim. Since you've used silicone sealant, which is flexible, then this will insulate any vibration in the carbon fibre panels, therefore it will eliminate any sonorous effects that these panels might otherwise create. Therefore, I would suggest that you should remove the panels and thoroughly clean off all traces of the silicone so that you can start again, but next time use an epoxy resin adhesive of the appropriate spec: the objective is to make the CF panels and the OEM lid into one solid part, which then might permit the thin CF panels to resonate and thus increase sound.

I know it's too late now, but it would've been better to modify the lower part of the air-filter box rather than the lid because any induction sound has to be heard from exiting the inlet aperture and therefore if the lid can be made to resonate, the filter will absorb some of the sound generated , whereas this would not be the case if the lower part of the air-filter box generates the sound. However, you might like to try inserting a panel in the lower part, and instead of sticking it completely around the perimeter, leave one end free and stick another piece of CF above it so that you create a kind of "reed" (like a spring diving board) which can vibrate and produce noise. You MUST seal the lid to prevent unfiltered particles getting into the engine, but this is not the same concern in the lower part of the box, pre-filter. You won't benefit from the ram-effect if the CF sheet is not fully sealed, so you will lose some performance, but there's a chance that you might get a sound increase that you might like. Hope these comments help. :thumbsup:
 
If you had the airbox lid cheap and were intending on hacking it,why not get a large oval filter with the collar size corresponding to the intake maf diameter,a cheaper version of the AFE setup.
 
exdos said:
I've had a few additional thoughts on your mod which might help you achieve your aim. Since you've used silicone sealant, which is flexible, then this will insulate any vibration in the carbon fibre panels, therefore it will eliminate any sonorous effects that these panels might otherwise create. Therefore, I would suggest that you should remove the panels and thoroughly clean off all traces of the silicone so that you can start again, but next time use an epoxy resin adhesive of the appropriate spec: the objective is to make the CF panels and the OEM lid into one solid part, which then might permit the thin CF panels to resonate and thus increase sound.

You could be onto something there John! Will look into it, not sure how much motivation I have anymore though :(

exdos said:
I know it's too late now, but it would've been better to modify the lower part of the air-filter box rather than the lid because any induction sound has to be heard from exiting the inlet aperture and therefore if the lid can be made to resonate, the filter will absorb some of the sound generated , whereas this would not be the case if the lower part of the air-filter box generates the sound. However, you might like to try inserting a panel in the lower part, and instead of sticking it completely around the perimeter, leave one end free and stick another piece of CF above it so that you create a kind of "reed" (like a spring diving board) which can vibrate and produce noise. You MUST seal the lid to prevent unfiltered particles getting into the engine, but this is not the same concern in the lower part of the box, pre-filter. You won't benefit from the ram-effect if the CF sheet is not fully sealed, so you will lose some performance, but there's a chance that you might get a sound increase that you might like. Hope these comments help.

I agree, I think more sound would come from the bottom part. It's a bugger of shape to work with though. I'll keep an eye out on ebay for a spare lower airbox part. I'm going to being doing the exhaust bypass mod in a few months, so will see how loud that is first as it will potentially drown out any work I do anyway :)
 
goon said:
If you had the airbox lid cheap and were intending on hacking it,why not get a large oval filter with the collar size corresponding to the intake maf diameter,a cheaper version of the AFE setup.

Yeah I was thinking of doing something like this, but without the cone filter. I could keeping the bottom, rear and left hand side of the lower section in place to reduce any potential heat soak. But cut away the front and right hand side to let more noise out. I could it just below the section where it clips on to keep the panel filter secure.
 
gwatson said:
You could be onto something there John! Will look into it, not sure how much motivation I have anymore though :(
Don't lose your motivation to carry on experimenting! If you think you might be onto something you can't expect to get it all right first time: you should be prepared to have 3 goes with different ideas and if they all fail, then that's the time to quit but not before. :thumbsup:

It wouldn't take that much effort to refit those panels with epoxy and if you don't do it, then you'll never know... :poke:
 
Ok ok, point taken :D Sounds like a job for the Xmas holidays then :thumbsup: Just need to suss what product is suitable.
 
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