Here's a cut and paste from a word document I made myself when I did mine.
Mine were Xenons already so these may only apply if yours had them as standard.
The info came from old posts by Mac27040 (Neil) who runs Zedfest so the credit for this needs to go him . He was also very helpful with any questions I had when I did mine.
Unfortunately as you'll read below there's no real way of getting flash to pass to work without the lights being on in some capacity, with coding them to DLR (using Carly/INPA/ISTA) serving as a work around. Apparently you need a post facelift LCM for that, but that in turn gives you issues with having the older rear light clusters as the units trying to run the later LED units.
Fortunately at least in the UK flash to pass is not a legal requirement for MOT's etc. I'm not sure if that differs over there
XENON HEADLIGHTS WIRING CONFIGURATION
PRE-FACELIFT WIRING
1. RAIN SENSOR
2. LOW BEAM
3. HIGH BEAM
4. SIDE LIGHT
5. HAZARD
6. HAZARD
7. INDICATOR
8. BI XENON
FACE LIFT
1. RAIN SENSOR
2. LOW BEAM
3. SIDE LIGHT
4.
5. HAZARD
6. HAZARD
7. INDICATOR
8. BI XENON
1) YOU HAVE TO MOVE PIN 4 PRE FACELIFT (SIDE LIGHT) TO PIN 3 FACELIFT (SIDELIGHT)
2) (HIGH BEAM) PIN 3 FROM PRE FACELIFT TO PIN 8 (BI XENON) FACELIFT AND FLASH THEN WORKS.
CODE LIGHTS FOR DLR MODE, EVERYTHING WORKS IN DLR MODE (LIGHT SWITCH POSITIONED IN LIGHT ON NORMAL BEAM) LIGHTS TURN ON AND OFF WITH THE KEY AND DO NOT STAY ON, SO NO FLAT BATTERY.
WHEN NO LIGHTS ON FLASH DOESN’T WORK. FACELIFT LCM NEEDED TO MAKE IT WORK. PRE FACELIFT CAN’T BE CODED TO DO IT APPARENTLY