Z4M Engine Mounts / Bolts - **ALERT ALL Z4M DRIVERS**
- Thread starter jamiez
- Start date
High guys,
I know that there are several threads about the engine mount bolts, and the mounts themselves.
The reason Im posting this is that Im about to install some parts and before doing it I wanna be sure that I have all the bolts and torques correctly.
I have ready to install a gruppeM intake, vibratechnics engine mounts, wiechers strut bar and some more that don't interfere with the bolts and mounts.
So, what are my concerns?
1)Location of the engine mounts and bolts:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2848125&postcount=15
CORRECT?
2)How many bolts do I need. I went to the dealer and picked up:
- 31106772199 (M10x35-10.9ZNS3): 4 units.
- 07119905724 (M8x26-U1): 8 units.
- 07119905533 (M8x35-U1): 8 units.
They all came with washers. I know that 8 bolts for the mounts of each type (M8) will be more than enough, but what about the M10 ones? From what I see in this diagram the reinforcement plate needs 8, CORRECT? (Looks like I need 4 more).
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3782138&postcount=10
3)And my nightmare continues... TORQUE:
- All engine mount screws/bolts (M8) should be torqued to: 56NM 105º+-15º (2 Top Right, 2 Top Left, 2 Bottom Right and 2 Bottom Left). Read some where that the should be torqued first to 24NM and then to Spec once all are in place...
- Reinforcement Plate: 59NM 90º.
HOW AM I DOING SO FAR?
4)Reinforcement Plate Re-install:
- The car will be on stands, Should I Torque the plate on the stands or once the car its on the ground?
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5150686&postcount=52
5)How to torque and angle torque:
- From what I've seen on youtube, first you torque to the number Ex:56NM and the with the angle tool attached to the wrench, keep tighten till you reach the desired angle.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8WohM6pt58I
6)Installation of the Vibratechnics mounts.
- Nut should be torqued to 41NM.
- When is the best time to install the new rubber mounts? once I have all the bolts properly torqued or with the oem ones still in place?
Hope this post help with what I need to remove before jacking up the engine and transmission to make room for the VT ones...
I know its a long post, I tried to keep it simple so you can answer and correct my mistakes.
Really appreciate your help and knowledge.
I know that there are several threads about the engine mount bolts, and the mounts themselves.
The reason Im posting this is that Im about to install some parts and before doing it I wanna be sure that I have all the bolts and torques correctly.
I have ready to install a gruppeM intake, vibratechnics engine mounts, wiechers strut bar and some more that don't interfere with the bolts and mounts.
So, what are my concerns?
1)Location of the engine mounts and bolts:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2848125&postcount=15
CORRECT?
2)How many bolts do I need. I went to the dealer and picked up:
- 31106772199 (M10x35-10.9ZNS3): 4 units.
- 07119905724 (M8x26-U1): 8 units.
- 07119905533 (M8x35-U1): 8 units.
They all came with washers. I know that 8 bolts for the mounts of each type (M8) will be more than enough, but what about the M10 ones? From what I see in this diagram the reinforcement plate needs 8, CORRECT? (Looks like I need 4 more).
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3782138&postcount=10
3)And my nightmare continues... TORQUE:
- All engine mount screws/bolts (M8) should be torqued to: 56NM 105º+-15º (2 Top Right, 2 Top Left, 2 Bottom Right and 2 Bottom Left). Read some where that the should be torqued first to 24NM and then to Spec once all are in place...
- Reinforcement Plate: 59NM 90º.
HOW AM I DOING SO FAR?
4)Reinforcement Plate Re-install:
- The car will be on stands, Should I Torque the plate on the stands or once the car its on the ground?
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5150686&postcount=52
5)How to torque and angle torque:
- From what I've seen on youtube, first you torque to the number Ex:56NM and the with the angle tool attached to the wrench, keep tighten till you reach the desired angle.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8WohM6pt58I
6)Installation of the Vibratechnics mounts.
- Nut should be torqued to 41NM.
- When is the best time to install the new rubber mounts? once I have all the bolts properly torqued or with the oem ones still in place?
Hope this post help with what I need to remove before jacking up the engine and transmission to make room for the VT ones...
I know its a long post, I tried to keep it simple so you can answer and correct my mistakes.
Really appreciate your help and knowledge.
Beedub said:
So In that diagram I see.
6 bolts M8x26 - NEW MotorSport bolts - Torque 24NM -NO ANGLE
2 bolts M8x35 - NEW MotorSport bolts - Torque 24NM- NO ANGLE
4 Nuts - Same torque 41NM.
Reinforcement Plate - 59NM - 90º
Why Such a low torque (24NM) when the service bulletin advised 56NM 105º+- 15º???
Thanks Beeddub
Hi there Anchefonk,
I fitted Vibra-Technics engine mounts and replaced the mounting bracket bolts late last year and wrote a 'how to'. I hope the information in the link below might help.
http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=58419
I found it was possible to do both jobs without removing the chassis reinforcement plate, which meant I didn't have to bother about angle torquing or whether or not to re-torque with the normal amount of weight on the wheels.
Sorry in advance if I've misread your last post, but I think you're getting the reinforcement plate bolt torques mixed up with the mounting bracket bolt torques.
I fitted Vibra-Technics engine mounts and replaced the mounting bracket bolts late last year and wrote a 'how to'. I hope the information in the link below might help.
http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=58419
I found it was possible to do both jobs without removing the chassis reinforcement plate, which meant I didn't have to bother about angle torquing or whether or not to re-torque with the normal amount of weight on the wheels.
Sorry in advance if I've misread your last post, but I think you're getting the reinforcement plate bolt torques mixed up with the mounting bracket bolt torques.
Anchefonk said:
the bolts 8 bolts on the carrier unit where never angle Tq'd, you've mis read the bulletin which is talking about the reinforcement plates.... i doubt very much they 8 bolts on the mount carriers would even take 59nm + the angle Tq... infact i guarantee they'd snap... their only m8 units...
FWIW I've done this and swapped to new o.e bolts, firstly all mine were Tq to spec, not lose at all, secondly I've Tq to the TIS spec of 21nm and all are still firmly in place after numerous Track days, they are simple to check which i do reguarly.
Yeah, you are right. That was a lot of torque. It didn't make sense to me, that's why I asked.Beedub said:
I checked the bolts that I picked up today. The M8 bolts are 8.8 and the M10 are 10.9.
I will torque the M8 to 21nm.
Thx in advance.
Sometimes my English it's not good enough to understand 100% what I read in technical language.
You are absolutely right, I confused my self with the torque from one thing to the other....Angus McCoatup said:
Luckly I have your font of knowledge (all of you guys) to help me out here.
I will read your post about the VT mounts and I will let you know if I need further help.
Thank you Angus and Beedub
Liverpool
Finally got around to getting mine fitted (along with a complete fluid change and new discs/pads).
Can't say the ones I took off weren't as bad as I thought they'd be considering the mileage, but the new Vibra-technics ones are beautiful and I'm sure I can feel less 'rocking' when changing gear and accelerating hard.
Can't say the ones I took off weren't as bad as I thought they'd be considering the mileage, but the new Vibra-technics ones are beautiful and I'm sure I can feel less 'rocking' when changing gear and accelerating hard.
Just that the gear changes feel a bit tighter and the car needs a few more revs/more assertive throttle when pulling away from standstill - otherwise it feels like it's bogging down.Z4M-2006 said:
Not done any hoons with them yet, but am going to the 'Ring next weekend (hence the engine/gearbox/diff oil, coolant, and brake fluid changes - plus the new discs & pads).
Was supposed to have been having my new calipers too, but the custom brackets for the Alcons are still not ready due to a supply issue out of Germany.
Beedub said:
My engine has started vibrating the f**k out my car at idle and low revs, it's a really deep throbbing rumble, and with the bonnet up I can feel that it's just not right... So I think I have this problem
Gonna see if I can have it booked in to my indie early next week for a looksee. Sadly I don't have the toys to get the car up for a visual inspection of my own.... Which is currently doing my nut in TBH
There's a significant amount of vibration at idle, and up to about 1100 RPM. My teeth aren't falling out, but it's very noticeable. It sounds rumbly and bassy as you pull away as low speed, and over 1100 RPM either stationary or in motion it disappears. Seems to come back a wee bit just over 2,000 RPM. It's not misfiring at all.
Quite a few months ago I had clunking noises going over rough surfaces, garage checked it and could find nothing wrong or out of place. That disappeared a month or two ago on its own. And then this started near the end of 500 miles over two days this week, all A roads and motorway. Some of them were pretty dire roads though, so maybe a bolt or two has finally fallen out
Quite a few months ago I had clunking noises going over rough surfaces, garage checked it and could find nothing wrong or out of place. That disappeared a month or two ago on its own. And then this started near the end of 500 miles over two days this week, all A roads and motorway. Some of them were pretty dire roads though, so maybe a bolt or two has finally fallen out
Sadly I don't have them yet... But maybe I need to shell out on them pronto.
It's weird and scary though - with the bonnet up and my hands on the engine when it's running, my arms vibrate
The only reassuring thing is that at least it's a common issue and an easy fix if that's what it is.
It's weird and scary though - with the bonnet up and my hands on the engine when it's running, my arms vibrate
The only reassuring thing is that at least it's a common issue and an easy fix if that's what it is.
Bing said:Beedub said:
My engine has started vibrating the f**k out my car at idle and low revs, it's a really deep throbbing rumble, and with the bonnet up I can feel that it's just not right... So I think I have this problem
Gonna see if I can have it booked in to my indie early next week for a looksee. Sadly I don't have the toys to get the car up for a visual inspection of my own.... Which is currently doing my nut in TBH
ahhhhh fucking hell mate..... we all seem to be getting some car related bad luck at the moment :-(
i think i need to get under mine when the weather better for a check , this one causes damage if they fail, in some cases when the bolts fail the mount arm rests and damages the chassis rail, either way the stress this must put on the other load points will be huge. GL getting it sorted and hopefully minor damage has happened.