Z4M Buying Tips

BlackOut

Member
London
As some of you might have seen i am new to the forum, it's been great reading up about the Z4 and i've learnt a lot about the car already.

I am in the market for a Z4M R (sorry to those that prefer the coupe, i happen to think they are both gorgeous looking but i'm a "PH Open Season" fan) in the next month or two.

Forums are a great place to get lots of help and advice, i was hoping i might be able to get from some of you a list of any major (or even minor) things i need to look for / check for that are specific to the Z4. Aside from the usual stolen / chop shop'd / crashed / financed / lemon'd etc you keep an eye out for in any second hand car.

I will be going for some test drives over the next couple of weekends so anything to keep an eye or ear out for when driving that too would be great.

Cheers in advance.
 
Hi Blackout and welcome...

Excellent choice of car...

* Make sure it has had its 1st service at circa 1,200miles (Crucial)

* FSH, either BMW or Indy that specialises in BMW's (correct engine oil is important with these, especially if doing track days)

* Broken rear springs are a known fault - Easy fix, not too expensive, many replace all 4 with stronger after-market items (Eibach or HR most popular)

* O2 sensors are known to fail - again not a big problem

Great cars - Like to be driven enthusiastically - Love mine :D

Happy hunting....
 
That's a really great start thanks, i've heard about this running-in service at 1,200 miles so am glad to hear it is crucial, definitely something i'll be looking at.

Out of curiosity what is the "correct" engine oil for the M...? Mainly i will be driving under fast road conditions (and some slow :wink:) with maybe one track day a year, although the more i read the forum the more i see people taking them on track so perhaps more but no plans to dop a lot of it....
 
TBH I think it is mostly covered above, although -

- there is a Vanos rattle at around 3k rpm which is normal
- the diff can groan and clunk a bit at low speeds, which is pretty normal too
- the gearbox is "knuckly" and the first to second change can be awkward and result in serious kangaroo-ing

If you do some searches and have a good long browse through the ///M section, you will read the usual with regard to spec, navigation, etc.

PS I know that Peppermint has mentioned above as "crucial", and the 1200 service really is - don't bother looking at anything that hasn't had it.
 
BMW Z4 M Checkpoints

• Engine
Check the service book for the initial, 1200-mile service. This is where the fluids are changed from the run-in spec to the normal spec, and if it wasn’t done then serious wear could result.

Curiously, the throttle system can go out of tune. Resetting it can improve throttle response and its really simple to do: turn the ignition on and wait for 10 seconds, then turn it off for 10 seconds, then turn it on again for 10, then start the engine.

The crankcase ventilation oil separator assembly can clog with sludge; in extreme cases this can lead to combustible vapour building up in the intake and going bang in a big way when you next start the car. The valve is fitted to many BMWs and is one of the most ‘popular’ replacement parts!

• Transmission
If there is a rattle when you switch the engine off, which doesn’t happen if you have the clutch down, then this is probably the clutch springs. If this is the case, then it’s fairly normal and nothing to worry about. Shift from first to second are notchy.

• Body and chassis
Your Z4 M should come with two keys, so check that they both operate the remote central locking. If not, then it is a main dealer job to get them reprogrammed.
Be aware that the strut braces can crack near the strut tops – it’s actually the weld on the body that breaks so replacement is expensive – so check this area carefully.

• Brakes and suspension
The road springs have been known to snap at 35-45k, so check the car sits level and there are no rattles from the corners when driving. Some owners fit uprated Eibach or H&R springs.

Creaking from the rear can be worn anti-roll bar bushes, but they are reasonably cheap to replace.
 
Franzino said:
BMW Z4 M Checkpoints

Curiously, the throttle system can go out of tune. Resetting it can improve throttle response and its really simple to do: turn the ignition on and wait for 10 seconds, then turn it off for 10 seconds, then turn it on again for 10, then start the engine.

Does that work for the M too? Doing a search seems to give a mixed response.

I suppose the easiest way to find out is to try it!
 
Lower said:
Franzino said:
BMW Z4 M Checkpoints

Curiously, the throttle system can go out of tune. Resetting it can improve throttle response and its really simple to do: turn the ignition on and wait for 10 seconds, then turn it off for 10 seconds, then turn it on again for 10, then start the engine.

Does that work for the M too? Doing a search seems to give a mixed response.

I suppose the easiest way to find out is to try it!
Yes it should work mate. It adapts fairly quickly anyway I find so that's all the excuse I need for a decent run out at the weekend!
 
• Engine
Check the service book for the initial, 1200-mile service. This is where the fluids are changed from the run-in spec to the normal spec, and if it wasn’t done then serious wear could result.

What exactly does this mean? Run in spec fluids to normal spec? Are you supposed to change certain fluids or change your oil every 1200 miles? I'm really confused about this. I've never heard of this before.
 
The engine runs a different kind of oil in it for the first 1200 miles from new, and is then changed, after which service intervals go to "normal" intervals.
 
Faint creaks from the front end can also be loose nuts for the two strut braces - the case on my M Coupe.
Very easy fix naturally! :)
 
Great advice above. If you can find one that comes with a free camera it speeds up the first essential task you will have :P

Good luck!
 
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