z4m brake bleeding?? help please guys!

B

Beedub

Lifer
 Sutton Coldfield
right soo im collecting my Ap brakes on thursday and i am planning to do this install myself, im very confident with the spannerwork and the general bolting on and install of all the parts, that bits easy..... the bit im concerned about is the brake bleeding..... im not quite sure what fluid bmw uses in these cars from o.e but the new fluid is DOT 5.1 so i need to do a complete flush then refil with the new 5.1fluid......... what i dont want to do is end up with a weak spongy pedal.

so has anyone got any tips for doing a complete fluid change? any do's and donts? any particular bleed order? should i just stick with the o.e brake fluid with my new setup?? advise away guys!!

should i be using a top quality one man brake bleed kit?

brake bleeding is one area i Really want to be confident in! After this time i will do all my own brake bleeding.

byron
 
Take it you had a look here:

http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=1481

Although that's not an M it's obviously the same principle and although short it is to the point and has a few piccies! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

As for which fluid, I wonder what jamie was using with them? I wouldn't have thought the OE fluid was the one to go for??

Envious of your new kit! :)
 
Bled mine a few months back, pi55 easy, if a bit tedious.

Personally I would use the standard fluid, but either way I'd start with the furthest caliper from the master cylinder (MC) and fit and bleed until the MC is almost empty but NOT below the exit hole!! Top up and then bleed some more so the new fluid is through the pipes and caliper. Then repeat with next furthest from the MC and repeat until the final caliper, nearest the MC.

Concentrate on one caliper at at time until fluid is flowing through each, with no air.

Never let the MC level drop below the exit hole.

Bled the brakes on numerous cars and bikes, not anywhere near as daunting as it seems.

Good luck.
 
Last time I changed the colour of the fluid on the M (not mine) so I could see when it had actually flushed through.
 
Hello there Beedub,

I will run you through the bleeding process on thursday when you collect the brakes if you like?
It is a simple process and I I have just laid out my old brakes ready for the mornings task and i have all the boxes and fitting instructions and packaging.
Jamie
 
jamie your a superstar.... ill definatly take you up on that offer, when i see you ill be picking your brains about a few different things.....
 
No as they fit straight on. The only difficult process is the cutting of the stone guards to fit the larger discs. I used a grinder as did not want to remove the hubs just to take off the guards.

I will have all the calipers still mounted to the braided unions etc so should be a simple fit bar the stone guards.
 
last time i did this i fitted self bleed nipples, they have like a return valve so will let the fluid out but air can not be drawn back in when you release the peddle, this was many years ago

other wise its a simple enough job if you have another half, up, down up down, several times
 
jamiesecker said:
No as they fit straight on. The only difficult process is the cutting of the stone guards to fit the larger discs. I used a grinder as did not want to remove the hubs just to take off the guards.

I will have all the calipers still mounted to the braided unions etc so should be a simple fit bar the stone guards.
Click to expand...

Coolio thats the easy bit, ill just use a small hacksaw, might take a while but it,ll be neat :-)
 
Any amount of track use is going to highlight the problems with OEM fluid as it simply isn't rated for high temperatures. Are you sticking with OEM?
 
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