!!! z4 no any code no power !!!

abdullah

Member
Hello friends;

my vehicle is 20i e89 2013 z4. It has been 6 months since I bought the vehicle, but I could not use it yet. because the car can go from 0 to 100 kilometers in 11 seconds. and absolutely no error codes. bmw inspected the services and they said it was normal and left me alone with the car, a 20i 184hp engine goes up to 100 km in 11 seconds and this is normal for bmw !!! It is no different from a turbocharged engine and there is 0 acceleration in acceleration. In the 6-month period, injectors, vanos, air flow meters, new turbo spark plugs were tested and the car did not respond at all. The ECU worked for 1 month, the original software was rewritten, so we put a new brain on the car because it did not respond, the car did not respond again, we brought another z4 and wrote its software directly to my car, perhaps because there was manipulation in my car, but the car did not react. I spent an incredible 6 months of money and even if BMW does not own it to drive me crazy, I can not digest that my 20l 184hp 2013 model car goes a 1.2L 80hp. do you think why. We checked every place that could be serious. Could it be a simple and unexpected situation? Does anyone from you experience this situation? As a note, there is a software developer who said that the ECU does not demand pressure above 0.5 bar from the car when it comes to the live log record, but the engine does not fulfill the order when the ECU does not demand it, but there is no sign in the software, there is no code and ultimately That friend said I could not do the car and handed it back to me.
 
The 0-100kmh should be around 7 seconds so something is definitely not right. As you have new turbo, maybe the timing is worth looking at? It is not unheard of that the timing chain tensioner can fail, causing the chain to jump a tooth. Worth checking maybe?

A good diagnostics tool should be able to show where the problem is just by monitoring boost pressure/ knock/ lambda/ timing live data Has engine compression been checked?
 
Most faults with the car would cause either an CEL or a horrible noise. If something serious like compression issues the engine would run even more rough than a 4cyl engine already does.

It's quite hard to follow what you've written so apologies if you've already done this but you need to hook it up to ISTA and do a full diagnostic. To me it sounds like the ECU is not correctly programmed and running in a failsafe mode. ISTA should display those kinds of faults as hidden codes so they won't show up on any other diagnostic scanner.

There's all kinds of possible causes for that scenario. The ECU could have been flashed with the program from a different car with an N20, like a 320i. The slight differences between I/O in a 320i and Z4 20i would cause the problems you're seeing. I don't know the N20 engine that well but I do know there are multiple wastegate control systems for it and I also expect there to be changes in sensors.

I've had the exact same symptoms you are describing while playing around flashing my N54. I had forgotten to change the power class flag in the DME so when driven the engine would not boost at all but it didn't throw any lights, just drove really slowly without any boost, like a 30i.
 
Hello, first of all, thank you for your interest.

After 5 months of mechanical checks, we focused ourselves on the ECU, but no errors were found in the ECU, we experimented with a new brain, the car still did not react positively. Thereupon, we pulled the brain software from the same car and wrote it directly to my car. the car again showed no reaction. BMW authorized service has already examined the car for 1 week and had previously stated to us that they could not find any problems in the mechanical or ECU that they connected online to GERMANY, but we still did these operations. My comment is a very small detail that escapes our eyes, even if a new brain is written to the car, it does not allow direct turbo pressure even if another car is copied. Although I said absolutely do not do it, a master wrote the car to 245hp and I deleted it directly. but at 245hp the car could reach 100km in 7.5 seconds. If there was a serious problem with the car, it could not give this performance anyway. There is already a zero taken turbo on the car. injectors changed, spark plugs changed, vanos heads tested, air flow meter checked, pipeline compression was zero leakage. and the car really runs smoothly but doesn't accelerate. There is no slightest accident in the car or a change in its engine. What can trigger the cut-off of the turbo pressure in the car except our operations?
 
Hello, first of all, thank you very much for your interest.

We recorded the car live with a programmer, the ECU provides all the data it requests from the mechanic. but the ECU certainly does not demand pressure above 0.5 bar from the turbo. Our turbine is a zero never used turbocharger. And we checked the software to the bottom of the car and did not find any errors at our BMW authorized service. However, we did not try a new brain, we cloned the brain of another z4 20i e89 2013 model car into my car, again it did not react.
 
abdullah said:
Although I said absolutely do not do it, a master wrote the car to 245hp and I deleted it directly. but at 245hp the car could reach 100km in 7.5 seconds.

That’s still 2 seconds too slow for that map, should be around 5.5 seconds running a 28i 245bhp map
 
Just throwing this one out there...

perhaps the throttle position sensor is faulty/not set correctly? Not sure if any diagnostic would pick this up.
 
I would get it booked in with a good tuner on a rolling road and get them to have a good look at it for you
 
Fat Yucca said:
Just throwing this one out there...

perhaps the throttle position sensor is faulty/not set correctly? Not sure if any diagnostic would pick this up.

i will check this side thank you.
 
Well, find a reputable tuning company who have a rolling road and get them to do some diagnostics for you and they will be able to tell you exactly what is going on and what bhp,torque, boost etc being produced by hooking the your car up to the computer whilst it is being run on the dyno.
https://youtu.be/DtsA_q-ndUQ
 
Boltz said:
Well, find a reputable tuning company who have a rolling road and get them to do some diagnostics for you and they will be able to tell you exactly what is going on and what bhp,torque, boost etc being produced by hooking the your car up to the computer whilst it is being run on the dyno.
https://youtu.be/DtsA_q-ndUQ

we did this on the road. Of course we tested it on dyno first. Neither on the road nor on the dyno any advance value was less or more than requested. But the problem we identified here is that the ECU never requested pressure above 0.5 bar from the turbo. and in my opinion, whatever the source of the problem is, it prevents the ECU from requesting pressure from the turbo. and this happens without giving any fault codes.
 
we did this on the road. Of course we tested it on dyno first. Neither on the road nor on the dyno any advance value was less or more than requested. But the problem we identified here is that the ECU never requested pressure above 0.5 bar from the turbo. and in my opinion, whatever the source of the problem is, it prevents the ECU from requesting pressure from the turbo. and this happens without giving any fault codes.
[/quote]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ts1LpbsTk94&feature=youtu.be&ab_channel=AbdullahKAYMAZ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SlOXuAGSxdc&feature=youtu.be&ab_channel=AbdullahKAYMAZ
 
It does just look like a lack of boost as you say. If it was in limp home mode you would definitely have engine management light on and code stored.

I don’t really know enough about the 2.0l to say how the waste gate actuator is controlled but maybe this is where I would start. Also, how is boost pressure measured by the ecu? I would assume with some kind of MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor. If the sensor is reporting wrong value then ecu thinks it is doing full boost when it isn’t????
 
Ok, this is a really random guess but....................
As previously discussed on this forum, some of the N20s had a pneumatic operated waste gate and others had an electronically operated one.
I have no idea exactly what the physical differences may be, but are you sure you have the correct type for your car.
As I recall, it was the later ones that switched to an electrically operated one?
 
enuff_zed said:
Ok, this is a really random guess but....................
As previously discussed on this forum, some of the N20s had a pneumatic operated waste gate and others had an electronically operated one.
I have no idea exactly what the physical differences may be, but are you sure you have the correct type for your car.
As I recall, it was the later ones that switched to an electrically operated one?

my waste valve is electronic. vacuum pump brake and exhaust flap opening and closing work. but my vacuum pump is constantly leaving oil in the faulty engine cover. but this does not affect the car going because wastgate is electronic, not solenoid.
 
abdullah said:
enuff_zed said:
Ok, this is a really random guess but....................
As previously discussed on this forum, some of the N20s had a pneumatic operated waste gate and others had an electronically operated one.
I have no idea exactly what the physical differences may be, but are you sure you have the correct type for your car.
As I recall, it was the later ones that switched to an electrically operated one?

my waste valve is electronic. vacuum pump brake and exhaust flap opening and closing work. but my vacuum pump is constantly leaving oil in the faulty engine cover. but this does not affect the car going because wastgate is electronic, not solenoid.

Ok, rules out one other possibility then.
 
What is normal boost pressure for the N20? You say that the ECU is only demanding 0.5bar, but how do you know this exactly? Have you actually seen any live data on boost pressure?
 
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