Z4 M Roadster common issues

Hi Folks

Thinking of buying a very young engined (26,000 on an 07 plate) Z4 M Roadster but wondering what issues do they have and what should I be asking about when making enquiries?

Any wiring harness issues, gearbox, engine, roof etc etc issues?

Cheers.
 
I have a Z4MC so cannot really say much but I do know that you should ensure that the roof motor has been relocated to the boot due to water ingress or plan to do it ASAP. It’s very important that you check the service history regardless of age/miles. I would also ensure that you check the MOT history and look at what advisories there are if any as that’s likely to indicate future spending. If you plan to do little mileage and keep it as a garage queen then ensure that the strict service history has been carried out every 2 years and the correct inspection1/ inspection2 has been completed with invoices and or photographic evidence as this will be a must have for any future purchaser!
 
Can’t comment on issues but a forum member (Elliot 5927) was interested in this car (I think it’s the same one) and was going to test drive if but obviously never bought for some reason. Might be worth giving him a shout :thumbsup:

https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=73487&hilit=Wizard&start=4845
 
Regardless of miles, remember it’s still a 13 year old car, so I would suggest evidence of regular preventative maintenance is more appropriate rather than minimalistic milage based servicing is the key to substantiate a good price.

Also, if you go with the idea it had 126k on the clock rather than 26k, whilst most points should be in vgc if things like brakes & Vanos aren’t in good shape it’d be a red flag for a car that’s had a hard life

Talking about brakes, the brake pipes on a number of those which haven’t been garage queens are steel & see posts regarding corrosion, so take care over that as well,
 
Usual stuff applies,as per other z4s, as said, Brake pipes can corrode,as can Roof motors rust/die, but from what I have read on here,and personal experience of myself and others I know,these are an issue for some cars,but less so for cars 06 on,post facelift. (As roof motors were fitted differently or something).
As mentioned,and with any car of its age,bushes etc may need doing in time.

More specifically to the M's,
Engine mounts Can Fail.
Not as common as what people may suggest,but can happen.
Budget around £200.

Vanos, as I posted elsewhere, usually not an issue until 60,000 miles onwards,as some do it earlier, others leave it to 100k plus, without any problems....
The plastic cog for the belt can wear,but shouldn't be needed at 26k miles.
Budget £500-£900, depending on how much you do/where you go.

Also,Rod bearing shells and Cams/followers can be an issue,the latter not being too common,but worth having checked.
Had mine looked at while Mr Vanos(Steve) was doing my Vanos rebuild/upgrade and Timing chain,etc etc.
Slight scoring in mine,but nothing that wasn't to be expected,at 60k miles,so I was told.
Rod bearing shells circa £1-1500.
Cams and followers more expensive again.

Upgraded Schtick DSC followers are worth doing,but again, a low risk on a Low mileage car, and others,but a change of oil to Race oil helps.

Not impossible,as one or two premature engine failures on here early in the cars lifes,but less likely until higher mileage, generally,imo.
 
I have a 38,000 mile roadie - not winter driven, which I have owned for 4 years. Other than routine maintenance and valve clearance check, the only issues I have had to deal with were the almost inevitable soft top hydraulic pump replacement/relocation and a failed front wheel bearing. I think the latter was likely due to winter storage.
When I bought the car in 2016 it still had the original front tyres, which were obviously overdue for replacement due to age, but this was indicative of very light use. I had an oil analysis done, which suggested that the previous owner had not adhered to 10w60 use, but due to the aforementioned unstressed life, this has not resulted in any problems - subsequent annual analyses using 10w60 show very low wear. Suggest you also replace coolant and brake fluid - In addition to this I have replaced gearbox and diff lubricants.
Suggest you find a good local BMW indy shop which knows the potential problems these cars/engines present and foster a relationship, then just enjoy the car.
You may also want to check the integrity of the plastic structures behind the front bumper- the long, low nose makes this area susceptible to damage. I ran over some road debris and although no damage was apparent, a subsequent examination showed that the plastic part that fits in front of the wheel arch liner and locates the air vent into the wheel arch was shattered. I was able to obtain a new one, but these may be getting difficult to locate.
 
Have had several E89 variants including one of the last 2016 3 ltrs and driven an E85 but no never driven a Z4M, why do you ask?
 
Roof motor, ABS pump (as with non-Ms) are both common issues. I had both with my similar low mileage Z4M.
The roof motor was relocated to the boot, no more problems.
Snapped springs, worn out dampers even at fairly low mileages.
Front spoiler damage is common as above.

Accident damage as lots have been been pranged.
 
Japseroony said:
Have had several E89 variants including one of the last 2016 3 ltrs and driven an E85 but no never driven a Z4M, why do you ask?

Before you go sinking big ££ into one id have a decent trial .
No idea what intended use for it is but they aren't short of negatives :cry: & compared to a 35 E89 they can only be described as rudimentary .
For a sunny afternoon blatt over the moors or a Sunday drive to a breaky meet then yes , kudos aplenty but otherwise they offer poor ride(stock form) , cramped cabin , heavy gearbox , heavy clutch , woeful MPG , high VED , high service + maintenance & any real feel of performance only comes with foot buried to the floor , the S54 needs working hard to exploit its BHP .
Not trying to deter you , just pointing out if you have nostaligic thoughts of your E89 mixed with your M4 the Z4M is likely to prove a major disappointment if you intend using it for more than just occasional weekend miles :(
 
mr wilks said:
Before you go sinking big ££ into one id have a decent trial .
No idea what intended use for it is but they aren't short of negatives :cry: & compared to a 35 E89 they can only be described as rudimentary .
For a sunny afternoon blatt over the moors or a Sunday drive to a breaky meet then yes , kudos aplenty but otherwise they offer poor ride(stock form) , cramped cabin , heavy gearbox , heavy clutch , woeful MPG , high VED , high service + maintenance & any real feel of performance only comes with foot buried to the floor , the S54 needs working hard to exploit its BHP .
Not trying to deter you , just pointing out if you have nostaligic thoughts of your E89 mixed with your M4 the Z4M is likely to prove a major disappointment if you intend using it for more than just occasional weekend miles :(

Hmm, you make some very good points there Mr Wilks and although I do like a spirited drive I also enjoy the sunny afternoon jaunt so might need to give further consideration :thumbsup:
 
I can only speak for mine. I've had it almost 10 years now and it's the most reliable car I have ever owned. 12k when I bought it, 74k now. Only problems have been the radiator fan failed and the flip up screen failed. I have never bothered to fix the later, as it's is a waste of space and used to annoy me every time it flipped up. :wink: Best by a car without one if you can. Mine lives in the warm and seldom gets wet, so still has the roof motor where BMW put it. Never been an issue but I get why most people move them. Due to the very thick oil it's important that the engine is properly warmed up before pressing the loud pedal. This can take several miles on a cold day. It's the oil temp that you should watch. The coloured scale around the rev counter is for air temp and more show than practical use, so check the previous owner warms it up properly. On such a low mileage engine there should be no issues at all. But listen for ticking around 1500-2200 rpm. a little is perfectly normal and you will soon ignore it completely. A lot could mean the Vanos needs an overhaul. As with many cars of the period be sure to press the clutch in when starting or stopping the engine or it sounds clunky, perfectly normal but not a pleasant sound.

Check the service history. on a low mileage car it will likely be bi annual.

Running in Service around 1200 miles.
Oil Service, brake fluid change
Ins 1, Valve clearance check and record, brake fluid change
Oil Service, brake fluid change
Ins 2, Valve clearance check and record, brake fluid change, Gear box Oil Change, Rear Diff Oil Change.
and repeat

Ins 1 is £500-£600, at a good independent garage. double at a main stealer

Ins 2 is £700-£800

Check the brakes, New disks and Pads all around is £600-700. Cheaper than it used to be happily. :D

These cars need good tyres, so be sure they are fitted, or the previous owner didn't care as much as they should.

The Z4MR is not a modern get in a drive it car. It needs to be warmed. Then it needs to be driven properly. They do not reward poor driving like a Boxster does. They do reward in spades, when you get it right, roof down, hoof down and enjoy. You can bumble along, but there are many cars better at cursing than an MR.

Enough of my ramblings. Enjoy the hunt. :thumbsup:
 
I have a recollection of Woots once describing ///M ownership as a bit like a night with a high class Gashia.

It’ll be very wild, raw & expensive when you do it right, but living only once the experience is worth every penny - just don’t mention socks
 
I've never driven an MR, but after 5+ years of 3.0Si Coupe ownership I bought an MC last December, and would echo what others have said. A 3.0Si is a great car but an M is just so much more raw to drive, and that feeling starts as soon as the engine bursts into life!

I just love it, but then it's a Special Occasions car rather than a daily. Mine is a higher mileage example so I have invested in some preventative work (new bearing shells and engine mounts) that example shouldn't need for some time. But despite the costs it's definitely a keeper for as long as I can drive it. :D

Someone mentioned checking it has decent tyres, but on such a low mileage example it would be worth looking at the date codes as well.

The service history is crucial - my car was due an Inspection 2 when I bought it and there was some tappet noise especially when cold. I've also had that done but it was factored in to what I paid for the car.

If you do go to view it try to get a decent test drive (ideally unaccompanied) so you can get it properly up to temperature and then get the revs up for the full S54 experience.
 
Japseroony said:
Thank you for all the replies folks, lots to ask about now and to think about :thumbsup:

I have had mine for over 8 years now,coming on 9, and I have had very little issues with it either,to give the other side to my first post on this thread.....

Some years I have spent alot,but mainly wear and rear items,such as front brake discs & pads, every 2-3 years,as they are prone to warping, especially with spirited driving, despite proper bedding in procedures.
Battery changed once in my ownership,back in 2015,due to low winter use and no trickle charger at that time. (Had a trickle charger since).

I just budget £1000 per year for service and repair costs,and that usually covers it.

Some years I spend way more, having to get tyres,battery,brakes,etc but some years all I gave had to do is an oil service and brake fluid change totalling £250.
Only major repairs, through Necessity gave been Power steering rack,which BMW wanted 2.5k for (which us a reconditioned item,lol)
And I got repaired,with the same 2 year warranty bnw offer, for £600 all in, including my mechanic time to remove and send away (Scotland to England/Power steering UK,very good job too).

My rack was only damaged due to having had an Inspection service at then(2013/14), recently taken over local BMW dealer,who had drained all the oil out my steering reservoir,and bit filled it back up,in the op of my Indy,as it was quiet when it went in,but noisy as soon as I drove it out dealers.
They denied all blame :headbang:
Anyway, basically,Bnw dealer went from being Independent owned and very good,to taken over by a huge(non BMW) chain,and total crap!

If not for that,it probably would never have been as n issue
Other than that,had an ecu reoa done around 2014/15, for circa £500, and no problems since.

As said, budget 1k per year,and you should be fine.

The way I look at it,these cars don't depreciate much,if any, depending on what you pay,mines worth 90% of what I paid for it back in early 2012, so what I spend in repairs,I would lose that,or more ,on various other/newer sorts cars,imho.

That's how I look at it anyway :D :driving:

P.s,I have spent alot in it this year,due to lockdown,etc and a wish list if repairs) preventative maintenance,that I have had for a couple of years,but was in no rush to do,but have started working my way through,like Vanos Rebuild/upgrade, Timing chain renewal (at same time), Schtick cans and matching DSC followers (albeit,2nd hand ones).
Still want to do Exhaust back boxes (Remus), and Full OEM Suspension,Shocks/Springs,Bushes renewal ,due to age and 60k miles,I feel it would benefit), and Full front end respray, etc +which I have done previously in 2012 (Vandalism) and 2015/16(stone chips).

Hope this lengthy post helps,lol
And Thanks for reading,if you have :D
 
buzyg said:
I can only speak for mine. I've had it almost 10 years now and it's the most reliable car I have ever owned. 12k when I bought it, 74k now. Only problems have been the radiator fan failed and the flip up screen failed. I have never bothered to fix the later, as it's is a waste of space and used to annoy me every time it flipped up. :wink: Best by a car without one if you can. Mine lives in the warm and seldom gets wet, so still has the roof motor where BMW put it. Never been an issue but I get why most people move them. Due to the very thick oil it's important that the engine is properly warmed up before pressing the loud pedal. This can take several miles on a cold day. It's the oil temp that you should watch. The coloured scale around the rev counter is for air temp and more show than practical use, so check the previous owner warms it up properly. On such a low mileage engine there should be no issues at all. But listen for ticking around 1500-2200 rpm. a little is perfectly normal and you will soon ignore it completely. A lot could mean the Vanos needs an overhaul. As with many cars of the period be sure to press the clutch in when starting or stopping the engine or it sounds clunky, perfectly normal but not a pleasant sound.

Check the service history. on a low mileage car it will likely be bi annual.

Running in Service around 1200 miles.
Oil Service, brake fluid change
Ins 1, Valve clearance check and record, brake fluid change
Oil Service, brake fluid change
Ins 2, Valve clearance check and record, brake fluid change, Gear box Oil Change, Rear Diff Oil Change.
and repeat

Ins 1 is £500-£600, at a good independent garage. double at a main stealer

Ins 2 is £700-£800

Check the brakes, New disks and Pads all around is £600-700. Cheaper than it used to be happily. :D

These cars need good tyres, so be sure they are fitted, or the previous owner didn't care as much as they should.

The Z4MR is not a modern get in a drive it car. It needs to be warmed. Then it needs to be driven properly. They do not reward poor driving like a Boxster does. They do reward in spades, when you get it right, roof down, hoof down and enjoy. You can bumble along, but there are many cars better at cursing than an MR.

Enough of my ramblings. Enjoy the hunt. :thumbsup:

Totally agree,buzyg.
These cars are so rewarding,on the nice flowing/twisty roads with some fast straights fling in,they are a Proper drivers car.
I have had many a good spirited run in mine,as many in here know,and gave been part of.
And No other car I have owned,or driven(which us many) can put as big a smile on my face for its rawness etc.
A true old school sports car for the spirited driver. :driving: :evil:

Only a GT3 or GT2/ rs, 911 is better than it for the raw feel,as Other Porsches and most other Sports cars and Supercars are fun due to the high speed they can do,but nowhere near as involving to drive,imo
(They are too polished,and in case of many Porsche models,too easy to drive quickly without the need for much in the way if driver skill).
 
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