Z4 3.0i Mis-firing help

Mike_89

Member
 Leeds
Hi guys need some help here, I have an intermittent Mis-fire when the cars idleing on start up, now this only occurs when the car has been started up from cold and turned off when cold, say when I move it out of the garage for a wash.
Now is this something that's common or do I have a problem and if so how do I fix it? It runs fine if I get it up to temperature before turning off.

Help much appreciated

Thanks.
 
I would go for coil pack too. Sounds like the symptom I had a couple of months ago before 2 of mine packed up.
 
Some degree of overfueling is normal so it is quite likely that the plugs are getting fouled up when cold. That doesn't mean a coil pack is failing but it will give similar symptoms.

Sorry I don't know how much they are but no, they are not difficult to change.

When I had my Si, I had similar symptoms but I assumed this was normal if I turn off when I'd only been running it for say 10 seconds to move it out of the garage. If I'd run for about a minute before turning off and the problem didn't occur.
 
Z4coupebeaver said:
Some degree of overfueling is normal so it is quite likely that the plugs are getting fouled up when cold. That doesn't mean a coil pack is failing but it will give similar symptoms.

Sorry I don't know how much they are but no, they are not difficult to change.

When I had my Si, I had similar symptoms but I assumed this was normal if I turn off when I'd only been running it for say 10 seconds to move it out of the garage. If I'd run for about a minute before turning off and the problem didn't occur.

This sounds more like it as the lumpiness at idle goes away pretty quickly and rarely happens if I'm honest, I just wanted re-assuring and like you if I let it run before turning off it doesn't happen and runs fine

Thanks for your help :)
 
I've lost count of the number of times I've tried fixing something that isn't broken but if you get chance to put it on a diagnostic machine then fine. I can't see you will do any harm if a coil pack is starting to fail but there is no sense in throwing money at it when you don't have to.

You can do that when you really need to!!! :)
 
Always diagnose in order of cheapest repair to most expensive if you can't pinpoint the actual issue (i.e. no error code to read from the ECU)

cold misfires are typically the result of:
- Hydraulic Lifers gummed up when cold.
- CCV (crank case valve---sometimes called a PCV)
- Sparkplugs gummed up, work only when warm.
- Oil leaking into sparkplug chamber (valve cover gasket needs replacing) - typically flashes the check engine light when the misfire happens.
- Coil Packs
- Wiring Harness for Coil Packs

Most of these issues will throw an ECU code that can be read by a scanner, typically a P134X code. If you get a Check Engine Light then the fuel would be cut-off from the cylinder that experienced the misfire. Turning off the engine and turning it back on would reactive the cylinder.

So again, cheapest solutions first!

A bottle of Wynn's Hydraulic Lifter cleaner to ungum them, has been used successfully on our engines many times. Some people like Seafoam too. Take your pick.

Next up would be the spark plugs. Remove your coil packs, check the plugs for any oil residue on them - replace.

If you've got oil in there, then you'll need to replace your valve cover gasket.

Put it all back together, check for misfires. If you have a misfire then put on some thick gloves. Leave the engine idiling and listen closely to the spark plug coil packs... you're listening for a loud 'spark' sound, like an electric BBQ lighter. If you hear it, then one of your coils are toast. Alternately you can touch them WITH A RUBBER GLOVED HAND lightly. If one of them is toast then it will be VERY hot to the touch. The others would be hot, but one (or more) would be sizzling hot. And the safest way to check them to to hook them up to an ammeter and check the resistance in them---though it's not always 100% accurate.

If you've still got issues when I would look at the CCV.
 
Back
Top Bottom