yellow DTC/brake warning lights . Cheap reader?

Well on my Creator C110 reader you have to go into correct menu. A generic cheap reader I tried showed no faults. I had to go into abs sub menu.
 
5DF0 - ABS Pump motor failure and 5DF1 which is ABS Pump motor connection I think.
I am still not 100% sure if these codes could be just a sensor. From sites I have been on all 3 warning lights plus those codes are most likely to be ABS module.
 
As far as a code reader goes, I've got a cheap wifi ODB dongle paired with Dashcommand on the Iphone, seems to work well and only a combined cost of about £15.
 
Lights illuminating can be caused by low voltage issues and dirty wheel sensors. If your battery is old it might have difficulty in maintaining a charge. Alternator could be on its way out and can't maintain charging voltage or is putting out too much voltage..... Wheel sensors could need a cleaning (brake cleaning spray works great).

Google ....battery voltage ... and alternator voltage output.... Alternator voltage regulator output issues.

They will give you the necessary information to look at your car and see if it has battery and/or alternator/voltage regulator issues.

It's only requires a cheap multimeter to check the battery voltage..... A second person to rev the engine up in increments to check alternator output.

Allen key will allow you to remove the bolt holding the wheel sensors to the wheel hub/remove and clean.

All of this is within the average skills of most people with a few tools and a little confidence with their abilities.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
It seems in the UK everyone assumes it's the ABS system that's failing ... Here on our side of the pond we check battery/alternator and wheel sensors for issues first. The Z's electronics are sensitive to voltage and what you see code wise isn't necessarily the root cause.

If you have INPA software you can actually see your brake pressures along with other diagnostic information. A code reader just doesn't give you the same information.

I had a code reader state my airbag light was caused by a seat belt tensioner showing as fired... When the actual cause was a voltage issue as a result of a dirty connector (as traced/fixed by a BMW tech...). It was cleaned and no illumination again after 2 years.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Plugged mine in today to read the codes using INPA and it came up with right rear wheel sensor but the error is not present anymore so I cleared the error and all the lights are out:)

I assume it could do with a clean so I'll try that and if it come back I'll replace it
 
brittas said:
Well I got module pump out. Sending to ecu testing. I got the pressure bleeder on its way. I have had 2 broke bleed nipples 1 new caliper but so far looking to keep total bill below 500 uk pounds. One independent bmw said codes meant nothing to them and wanted 50 quid to tell me what I know. Bmw the same 80 quid minimum. I may have to bite the bullet and get a bleed using software done when I finally get back on the road. Biggest headache so far was 2 week wait for Chinese code reader.
Click to expand...

If you get your same unit repaired, there's no eed to do any coding when you bleed. Incidentally, when I did mine I ditched the pressure bleeder (crappy Eazibleed thing) and did it simply by someone pumping on the brake pedal (i.e. the 'traditional' way) Only took a few minutes to do all calipers, although I only really got any air out of the ONE (FR) caliper I initially drained.
 
Got a multimeter? Check the battery voltage with engine off and on. I had a dead regulator that threw lots of lights like that before the battery went totally sparko. A lot bloody cheaper than the full failure fixes if it does turn out to be voltage related. These cars are more like computers than vehicles with their power regulation demands.

Edit: didn't see there was a page 2 on this thread, Clearancediver has said it far better than I. I award myself -10 points and will shortly drink an unsugared coffee as penance.
 
All good stuff guys, thanks.

I fiddled about with the INPA software a bit more and got the same error codes as Ooch: 5DF0 and 5DF1, I take on board your comments Clearance diver and as always will go down the easy route first.

So...... on closer inspection, I notice that the left front wheel has a significantly greater amount of brake dust on it than the others. I'm just wondering whether, apart from checking battery voltage first, I shall just change that ABS wheel sensor and see if that does the trick? I really can't see how its connections can get dirty, the blue plastic casing is all intact and when I unplugged it, it all looked pretty clean in there.

I cant work out using the INPA how to check the individual wheel sensors, (first time I've ever used, such stuff). I'm in the DSC menu, which threw up the codes above.
 
My zed decided to inttermitently throw up the dreaded 3 warning lights as detailed whilst enjoying the Skye weekend away :headbang:

I will be getting it booked in andchecked at the stealers to establish what the exact issue is. Its beginning to sound expensive from what I been reading, we shall see .... :(
 
Geezah said:
All good stuff guys, thanks.

I fiddled about with the INPA software a bit more and got the same error codes as Ooch: 5DF0 and 5DF1, I take on board your comments Clearance diver and as always will go down the easy route first.

So...... on closer inspection, I notice that the left front wheel has a significantly greater amount of brake dust on it than the others. I'm just wondering whether, apart from checking battery voltage first, I shall just change that ABS wheel sensor and see if that does the trick? I really can't see how its connections can get dirty, the blue plastic casing is all intact and when I unplugged it, it all looked pretty clean in there.

I cant work out using the INPA how to check the individual wheel sensors, (first time I've ever used, such stuff). I'm in the DSC menu, which threw up the codes above.
Click to expand...

Your in the correct menu,

mine showed this

8ysepe4u.jpg


I did clean mine as the front ones were covered in crap but my errors back so I will buy a new sensor this week hopefully.
 
Thanks jan. I didnt get any wheel sensor error codes, just the two mentioned so I would assume that the sensors are ok. Ill check the battery and change the sensor on the dusty wheel and take it from there I think.
 
I don't have my car connected to INPA to tell you exactly what to do, but you have a choice between digital/analog readout. Selecting the appropriate readout gives you visual bar code representation of the brake pressures as you press brake pedal. That will let you know if the sensors are actually working.

Brake dust will interfere with the sensor pick up of signal. Cleaning them eliminates that possibility.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
I had already cleaned wheel sensors. My abs unit has just got back to me from ECUtesting. They did find a fault and it should be repaired. Battery is on trickle charge at the moment.
I will see later if I have managed to sort this out with out any trips to BMW dealer.
 
A digital read out of brake pressure on INPA. Nice....ill have another fiddle with it Clearance diver.
Good luck Ooch, hope its all sorted. Pity your not closer to me Swiftly else Id be happy to do a diagnostic for you.
 
Thanks for the offer Geezah, I have my zed booked in at stealers on Friday morning for diagnosis. On a positive note my zed is still covered by BMW comprehensive extended warranty cover.

I will let you know what they report once they have checked it out. hope you have more luck sorting yours out
 
Fitted the abs pump module this afternoon. Pressure bled all calipers . Reset fault codes. All good.very happy. Ecutesting saved the day. A real sense of achievement not having to involve bmw. Including a new re manufactured caliper total price under £400.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom