Thanks for info, but I'm looking for whichever is no. 2, fault code 5E21, I don't know which circuit is front and which is rear.
Yellow DSC & brake light
- Thread starter Monkey3.0
- Start date
Thanks BeetleGav
I had this last week! I had all 3 lights in yellow and could not switch them off. They went red and yellow until I got it on the code reader. Long and short all came back on.
Had all my tyres independently checked and both rear run flats had tiny nails in. This was causing the tyre sensor to trigger which appears to have upset traction control and break sensors.
Anyway ditched run flats, re calibrated tyre sensor and touch wood, all good
Had all my tyres independently checked and both rear run flats had tiny nails in. This was causing the tyre sensor to trigger which appears to have upset traction control and break sensors.
Anyway ditched run flats, re calibrated tyre sensor and touch wood, all good
Exactly the same problem here! 
Came on 3 days ago, after an 'enthusiastic launch'..
Now have the yellow lights stuck on (below), and the "5E21 pressure sensor 2 electrical failure"
Jetset Ron, are you thinking of DIYing this? If so, photos would be great! The answer you your question on which sensor is which, is below (followed by my fault codes and dash):
Came on 3 days ago, after an 'enthusiastic launch'..
Now have the yellow lights stuck on (below), and the "5E21 pressure sensor 2 electrical failure"
Jetset Ron, are you thinking of DIYing this? If so, photos would be great!
The answer you your question on which sensor is which, is below (followed by my fault codes and dash):This fault also started on mine over the weekend (all 3 lights) I took it to the indy yesterday and they scanned it and said that the pump was at fault, if this is the case I will go down the repair route as don't fancy the £1600 price for a new one. The question I have is that when the lights are on if I do the wheel sensor alignment (full lock both ways) the lights go out for a few days then come back on, if the fault is actually with the pump would you expect this to happen or would this more likely point to the wheel sensor?
Thanks
Thanks
Clearancediver
Member
I would clean the wheel sensors and their connectors as well. Clean the brake pressure sensors with an appropriate electrical cleaner. Check to see if your battery isn't exhibiting low voltage and/or voltage of alternator is between 13.5-14.5 volts. Reset faults and then drive to see if it occurs again. The INPA screen shot of the brake sensors said error wasn't currently present although set...... So I doubt it's those sensors. In fact with INPA you can see what the actual brake pressures are as well as whether the wheel sensors are functioning right. Low voltage output as a result of an old battery or faulty voltage regulator is a common cause of those sensors faulting and warning lights illuminating.
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I had this intermittently for quite a few months, gradually getting more frequent. Had the pump repaired and refitted it - maybe a 2 hour job including bleeding the brakes. Total cost £250. Much cheaper than a new unit and no coding required.Bbr92 said:
I am going to DIY JamesUK.
I've fitted new front ABS sensors (anyway), this weekend I'm going to renew all the brake fluid and fit new rear sensors (for piece of mind). I'm also going to check tyre pressures are correct.
If the problem persists I'm going to buy 2 x pressure sensors, fit and bleed the brakes. If I do this I'll take photos James, it does look a simple job.
I've fitted new front ABS sensors (anyway), this weekend I'm going to renew all the brake fluid and fit new rear sensors (for piece of mind). I'm also going to check tyre pressures are correct.
If the problem persists I'm going to buy 2 x pressure sensors, fit and bleed the brakes. If I do this I'll take photos James, it does look a simple job.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171096111359
This seems well priced pump repair.
This seems well priced pump repair.
As I understand it, the unit contains a number of small electric motors (or actuators). Due to the location of the unit close to the engine, the excessive heat affects the motors or electrical connections. The refurbishment seeks these out and repairs them.pvr said:What actually goes wrong with the pump? Is it a seal that goes or so?
£250 sure is a good price ...
Jetset Ron said:
JetsetRon, do you think the pump block needs changing too?
Have you swapped the pressure sensors yet, has it worked?
I've been too busy to do anything on mine yet. The warm dry weather has meant that I'm starting to actually ENJOY not having the traction control etc
hi guys, just a quick post to say i've just had my service done and this fault has come up for me to. The service report says the following:
"24/06/14 after wire test, connector checks found dsc control unit/ pump failed. requires replacing, programming."
They have quoted me £2,280 for the replacement. Crazy given the car has only done 18k miles. Thinking i might take it to an indy for a second opinion first.
Any other suggestions. Where do i stand with BMW on this? Seems to be a common fault!
"24/06/14 after wire test, connector checks found dsc control unit/ pump failed. requires replacing, programming."
They have quoted me £2,280 for the replacement. Crazy given the car has only done 18k miles. Thinking i might take it to an indy for a second opinion first.
Any other suggestions. Where do i stand with BMW on this? Seems to be a common fault!
JamesUK I haven't changed the sensors yet. I changed all the brake fluid (to Dot 5.1) and the fault lights are coming on less, but when they do come on the C110 is still reading silly figures like 20 bar in one of the circuits with the brakes depressed.
Hoping to change the sensors next week (when I get paid!) I'll try to remember to take photos. I think its as simple as disconnecting the electrical connectors, undoing the DSC sensors (looks 27/28mm) and popping the new ones on trying to minimise brake fluid loss, then a full bleed.
Hoping to change the sensors next week (when I get paid!) I'll try to remember to take photos. I think its as simple as disconnecting the electrical connectors, undoing the DSC sensors (looks 27/28mm) and popping the new ones on trying to minimise brake fluid loss, then a full bleed.
