Xenon Intermittent Fault Indication

[X-S-Z]

My right-hand Xenon light from time to time will fail to come on and bring up the bulb fault indication on the dashboard. This is an intermittent fault and generally happens when I am driving with the automatic lights going on / off from time to time. I have noted that I just simply turn the lights off, wait a few seconds and turn them back on and the lights come on fine and the fault indication clears. Is this a sign of some impeding failure that I need to be concerned about?

 

[danmiddle2]

Not sure I can answer your concern, but mine are the same.

 

[Ian58]

+1

 

[benlumley]

Mine did this when I first got it - it was under AUC, so dropped it into the dealer. They decided it was a failing/faulty 'bulb', which they replaced (under warranty, eventually) and it's been fine since. <touches wood>

 

[bcworkz]

Seeing as this is a me too thread, I had the same experience as benlumley.

If it's consistently one side, swap sides to ensure it really is the bulb at fault.

 

[X-S-Z]

Having limited experience with xenon lights - is the bulb a simple swap? Inexpensive replacement?

 

[Cool Z4]

When I bought my car, I noticed the same thing. I took my car to the dealership and they couldn't reproduce it. Drove away and a few minutes later, it went off. I drove back and asked them how many lights they see on? Then then believed me and fixed the car. I don't quite remember what it was, but it had something to do with the heat of the fixture. Got hot, turned itself off or something like that. Anyway, they fixed it and it hasn't happened since.
Sounds like a common problem.

 

[bcworkz]

Having limited experience with xenon lights - is the bulb a simple swap? Inexpensive replacement?

Not exactly. Lethal voltages are involved! Disconnect the battery and let things sit for a while before doing anything. Other than that it's the usual fiddly stuff as you're working through a small access hole. I suggest removing the tyres. Xenon bulbs are extremely expensive compared to the usual halogens, which is why it's important to ensure the bulb is what is at fault... possibly over 100 quid!

 

[wiseguy]

Having limited experience with xenon lights - is the bulb a simple swap? Inexpensive replacement?

Not exactly. Lethal voltages are involved! Disconnect the battery and let things sit for a while before doing anything. Other than that it's the usual fiddly stuff as you're working through a small access hole. I suggest removing the tyres. Xenon bulbs are extremely expensive compared to the usual halogens, which is why it's important to ensure the bulb is what is at fault... possibly over 100 quid!

I'm a member of the "me too" group. My right headlight comes on for 1-2 minutes when I start the car, then blinks several times and shuts off, activating the dash warning light. Maybe it's the heat? Neither high nor low beams work on the right side after 1-2 minutes of starting the car at night (I leave the lights on auto, though the right headlight does not work on manual either).

Questions:

1. What non-BMW bulbs have you had success in using? (model and brand)

Here's a few I've found, ranging from $23 to $104:
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/s.../Roadster_3-dot-0si/6_Cyl_3-dot-0L/GED2S.html
$104, GE, "white"

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/s.../Roadster_3-dot-0si/6_Cyl_3-dot-0L/GED2S.html
$29, Auto Trust Gold, 5 year "no questions asked" warranty, 4000 degree light temp.


http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/s...04.html?intcmpid=Product+Listings+Best+Seller

Unknown brand, $23, Xenon D2-S : Low Beam

2. Will an OBD reader show if it's the ballast, "igniter," or the bulb that's gone bad, or is it incapable of discerning the difference? The reason I ask: My '07 had the right ballast replaced in '08. The right xenon bulb was replaced in 2011. These certainly don't seem to hold up very long.

3. I'm thinking of buying a factory service manual gfrom Ebay. Has anyone purchased this one? It's only $13 on DVD, so I'm skeptical that it is truly the manual used by dealerships in repairing our cars.
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/s.../Roadster_3-dot-0si/6_Cyl_3-dot-0L/GED2S.html

4. How long does the car need to sit after disconnecting the battery, to avoid the electrical danger? 10 minutes, 2 hours?

Thanks!

 

[MHZ4C]

I had this when under AUC. Drivers side (UK) bulb would fail to ignite now and then, and throw the 'bulb out' warning light. Turning off then on often relit both bulbs, and both bulbs looked the same colour and intensity when on, suggesting bulbs were not failing. I heard the bulb colour changes when the bulb starts to fail.

Dealer changed the ignitor in my case, and no issues since, although lights have not been used much since it happened in March, so we'll see...

 

[bcworkz]

@wiseguy, I'd be leery of no name bulbs, but OTOH you don't stand to lose much if they burn up after 2 hours, and there's a chance they will be fine.

AFAIK the DIS cannot distinguish faults, you have to swap components to narrow down the possibilities. I may be wrong on this.

You can't get a legit copy of the TIS unless you're a dealer, they're all bootlegs, thus the low price. Stupidest system I can imagine.

The reason for letting it sit is to let any capacitors discharge. I don't know if xenons even involve capacitors like the airbag system does, but when in doubt... :? I've heard anything from 10 to 30 minutes for airbags, so I'm guessing 30 minutes for any system should be adequate.

 

[wiseguy]

@wiseguy, I'd be leery of no name bulbs, but OTOH you don't stand to lose much if they burn up after 2 hours, and there's a chance they will be fine.

AFAIK the DIS cannot distinguish faults, you have to swap components to narrow down the possibilities. I may be wrong on this.

You can't get a legit copy of the TIS unless you're a dealer, they're all bootlegs, thus the low price. Stupidest system I can imagine.

The reason for letting it sit is to let any capacitors discharge. I don't know if xenons even involve capacitors like the airbag system does, but when in doubt... :? I've heard anything from 10 to 30 minutes for airbags, so I'm guessing 30 minutes for any system should be adequate.

Thanks. I confirmed at an auto parts store today that an OBD reader will not pull a code at all when the light out indicator is lit.

I agree re: the bulb brands. But, those with the 5 year guarantee look promising. I'd have to burn through 5 to 7 of those to equal the price for 1 OEM bulb from BMW. Even my local auto parts stores want $100 each.

I understand re: the bootleg copies of the TIS. I'm just curious if anyone has bought this particular DVD and used it successfully. I guess for $13, I can buy and try, and leave the seller negative feedback if it turns out to be a waste.

I've done more homework on HID discharge, and one site written by firemen for firemen (responding to auto wrecks with damaged HID systems) suggests just to shut off the vehicle and then unplug the battery. They don't even discuss a discharge period after unplugging. They also state the chance for electrocution is very low. I guess the danger is in some mook fiddling with the lights while connected to the battery, or, even worse, while they are on. :roll: A test touch with an insulated screwdriver after 1 hour unplugged should be overkill safety, so I think that's what I'll do.

Having no way to test my right bulb without removal, it looks like I'm going to pull both bulbs and swap them. If that proves the bulb is good, next I'll swap ballasts (I think this is also called the igniter, sitting just behind the base of the bulb when installed), and then control modules. I assume these components are not side specific (i.e., they are interchangeable). To avoid color differences in a new and old bulb, and since I'll have both wheel arches open anyway, I'll change both bulbs if that is the issue. And while I'm messing around down there, I might as well clean out my drains, to protect my gold-plated, diamond-encrusted, expensive a$$ new hydraulic pump.

@ MHZ4C, For the record, my right bulb is the normal bluish-white color when it comes on and starts to flicker. It never produces a red light or any other color. At this point, I wish it was red, as I'm concerned it's going to be more involved than a simple bulb replacement.

 

[jamiez]

Had the same on mine - did the swap which proved it was either the ballast or ignitor - slung it into BMW and they replaced the ignotor

 

[Denis O]

Is everyone only getting this happen when switch is set to auto. If so, my X5 does exactly the same with the nearside lamp. I stop, turn off the ignition, turn switch to off, turn on ignition, start engine and turn switch the on and it works perfectly till I switch everything off.

If I continue to use the switch manually then no problem but going back to auto and the bulb won't light.

 

[wiseguy]

@ jamiez- I thought the ballast WAS the igniter. Looking at the OEM parts website, it shows a bulb, igniter, and control module. Which is the ballast?

@ Denis O- my bulb acts up and goes out in auto or manual light switch mode. The only thing that makes it come back on is turning off the car and restarting. Then it works for 1 or 2 minutes and flickers out again.

 

[Dogmatic6]

@ jamiez- I thought the ballast WAS the igniter. Looking at the OEM parts website, it shows a bulb, igniter, and control module. Which is the ballast?

@ Denis O- my bulb acts up and goes out in auto or manual light switch mode. The only thing that makes it come back on is turning off the car and restarting. Then it works for 1 or 2 minutes and flickers out again.

The ballast is the control module that sits under the light bulb. I had to replace my ballast (bumper off) as it had flooded with water do to the rear headlight seal being old and letting in water.

I didn't even disconnect the battery...doh just removed the ignitor, bulb. Took bumper off and then disconnected all wires to headlight and removed headlight housing and took it into my house to get to the ballast.

Cheers

 

[mac27040]

mine did the same, i replaced the xenon bulbs and its been fine ever since.

 

[SilverChiv]

Same issue as myself although I don't have Xenons, passenger side doesn't come on via auto, doesn't bother me too much as long as I have light via manual controls, got a feeling that situation won't last forever however!

 

[wiseguy]

@ Dogmatic: Thanks. I thought that was the case, but wanted to be sure I was using the proper part name.

Update:

I pulled my xenon bulbs out today. I didn't need to jack up the car, as I had sufficient room* once the wheels were turned. I used the z4 headlight video on YouTube as my guide.

The good news: I confirmed the problem is a bad xenon bulb, as switching the bulbs showed the good one (left) worked on the right side.

*The bad news: I broke several plastic tabs on the ballasts (igniters) when trying to reinstall them. They simply would NOT seat in the 4 holes with the bulb installed. I tried everything I could think of to accomplish this simple step. Without the bulb, they went back smooth as butter. I made sure the bulbs were properly seated (rod in 6 o'clock position on both bulbs). After 40 minutes, the high outside temp and my frustration got the better of me, and a combination of brute force and swearing got both igniters to seat and turn clockwise into place. Those 4 plastic tabs on the igniters aren't very sturdy; be careful! Perhaps pulling the wheels off would have let me see the problem from a better viewpoint and solve it without damage.

If I had to do it over again, I wouldn't attempt this for the first time with any time pressure involved. You need to be able to walk away, clear your head, and come at the problem with fresh eyes. I didn't have the time for that today, and was at a friend's house (for assistance), so I had to get the car home.

I noticed that the metal locking "wire" holding the igniter in place is missing on the left side, so I'll have to order a replacement. I might even get a total of 3 and cross-secure the igniters to add stability. If it isn't ants, it's bees...

For the record, a faulty xenon bulb does not always turn red when it goes out. Mine never did; it only blinked intermittently at the usual color and then failed completely. There is a burn mark inside the bad bulb.

I'm going to roll the dice on the $29 bulbs online (see my previous posts in this thread) and pop those in. Fingers crossed!

 

[Dogmatic6]

@ Dogmatic: Thanks. I thought that was the case, but wanted to be sure I was using the proper part name.

Update:

I pulled my xenon bulbs out today. I didn't need to jack up the car, as I had sufficient room* once the wheels were turned. I used the z4 headlight video on YouTube as my guide.

The good news: I confirmed the problem is a bad xenon bulb, as switching the bulbs showed the good one (left) worked on the right side.

*The bad news: I broke several plastic tabs on the ballasts (igniters) when trying to reinstall them. They simply would NOT seat in the 4 holes with the bulb installed. I tried everything I could think of to accomplish this simple step. Without the bulb, they went back smooth as butter. I made sure the bulbs were properly seated (rod in 6 o'clock position on both bulbs). After 40 minutes, the high outside temp and my frustration got the better of me, and a combination of brute force and swearing got both igniters to seat and turn clockwise into place. Those 4 plastic tabs on the igniters aren't very sturdy; be careful! Perhaps pulling the wheels off would have let me see the problem from a better viewpoint and solve it without damage.

If I had to do it over again, I wouldn't attempt this for the first time with any time pressure involved. You need to be able to walk away, clear your head, and come at the problem with fresh eyes. I didn't have the time for that today, and was at a friend's house (for assistance), so I had to get the car home.

I noticed that the metal locking "wire" holding the igniter in place is missing on the left side, so I'll have to order a replacement. I might even get a total of 3 and cross-secure the igniters to add stability. If it isn't ants, it's bees...

For the record, a faulty xenon bulb does not always turn red when it goes out. Mine never did; it only blinked intermittently at the usual color and then failed completely. There is a burn mark inside the bad bulb.

I'm going to roll the dice on the $29 bulbs online (see my previous posts in this thread) and pop those in. Fingers crossed!

I'm not sure if this is the same issue but i spent 60 very frustrating minutes trying to attach the ignitor again and lock it into place.

I then realized that they are designed to be attached and locked/rotated without the connector (power) cable being attached. when you attach the power cable it rotates the plastic inner circle a little so you cant lock the ognitor in place.

I think this is a safetly feature to make sure you don't have the power cable attached when trying to fit the ignitor if that makes sense.

It went on first time for me after i removed the power cable...doh