Xenon high beam problem
- Thread starter rich-v
- Start date
I'd need to identify if the flicker and flash is the lights going out and back on, or adjusting there throw and if one or both?
For on an off I'd be looking to a faulty ballast, or HT connection lead to the unit, but that's unlikely if both.
If they are adjusting then it maybe the auto levelling that has gone wrong, who's purpose is to keep the beams level while going up and downs bumps, bends, etc.
Dealers don't really try to find the fault unless it can be replicated
For on an off I'd be looking to a faulty ballast, or HT connection lead to the unit, but that's unlikely if both.
If they are adjusting then it maybe the auto levelling that has gone wrong, who's purpose is to keep the beams level while going up and downs bumps, bends, etc.
Dealers don't really try to find the fault unless it can be replicated
We had a similar problem with one of headlights when we first bought the car; the dealer replaced the headlight assembly, but I later tried to explain myself what's going on.
With Bi-Xenon lights (low and high beam Xenon) there is a motorized mirror or a shield behind the lens of the projector that on low beam cut of the upper half of the light; when the high beam is turned on the mirror moves and light is projected throughout the entire lens. You'll noticed when you first turn the lights on how the beam appears to move up and down; that's the mirror/shield adjusting... I think it also adjust its position based on whether the car is leveled or on an incline...
I also noticed something interesting: when you flesh the high beam is the halogen light that turns on, while when you lock the high beam on, it's the mirror/shield moving. You can notice the difference because when you flash the light is warmer. The later models both flashing and on position use the Xenon while the inner light is a dummy...
I guess the mirror/shield came loose or something and it doesn't hold steady... I think CJ took his lights apart, so he might be able to help you there and you'll manage not to change the entire light assembly. Be careful touching things around there with the lights on as the Xenon uses a high voltage (but low current) electricity... Although it's not dangerous, it's not a pleasant experience
With Bi-Xenon lights (low and high beam Xenon) there is a motorized mirror or a shield behind the lens of the projector that on low beam cut of the upper half of the light; when the high beam is turned on the mirror moves and light is projected throughout the entire lens. You'll noticed when you first turn the lights on how the beam appears to move up and down; that's the mirror/shield adjusting... I think it also adjust its position based on whether the car is leveled or on an incline...
I also noticed something interesting: when you flesh the high beam is the halogen light that turns on, while when you lock the high beam on, it's the mirror/shield moving. You can notice the difference because when you flash the light is warmer. The later models both flashing and on position use the Xenon while the inner light is a dummy...
I guess the mirror/shield came loose or something and it doesn't hold steady... I think CJ took his lights apart, so he might be able to help you there and you'll manage not to change the entire light assembly. Be careful touching things around there with the lights on as the Xenon uses a high voltage (but low current) electricity... Although it's not dangerous, it's not a pleasant experience
Oh dear Zeta tre. I just corrected your post re my tyre fitting and now I'm looking at this so forgive me 
Actually you are almost correct about the light but internally there are 2 separate movement mechanisms.
Fistly is dip/main and this has a small actuator that as you say raises and lowers a shield obsuring part of the beam. It actually just cuts off the throw to prevent dazzle to oncoming drivers. Interestingly as the light is focussed by the lens the cut off actually is inverted so it raises to cut off the top of the beam.
Adjustment - this is a step motor that electronically controls the entire level of the internals of the light by pushing and pulling the lowere part of the unit while it's hinged at the top. This is what you see 'setting' on switch on.
Either of these could be faulty.
Spot on re flash to pass is just the centre halogen. Main is the shutter moving. This prevents cycling of the xenon bulb.
Actually you are almost correct about the light but internally there are 2 separate movement mechanisms.
Fistly is dip/main and this has a small actuator that as you say raises and lowers a shield obsuring part of the beam. It actually just cuts off the throw to prevent dazzle to oncoming drivers. Interestingly as the light is focussed by the lens the cut off actually is inverted so it raises to cut off the top of the beam.
Adjustment - this is a step motor that electronically controls the entire level of the internals of the light by pushing and pulling the lowere part of the unit while it's hinged at the top. This is what you see 'setting' on switch on.
Either of these could be faulty.
Spot on re flash to pass is just the centre halogen. Main is the shutter moving. This prevents cycling of the xenon bulb.
cj10jeeper said:Oh dear Zeta tre. I just corrected your post re my tyre fitting and now I'm looking at this so forgive me
No worry... Actually thanks for that, at least I learn something else...
Smokin said:Except we don't have the halogen here in the states.
Wonder why they did that? The lens is there and I'm sure that costs more than the bulb to put in it. :x
Our Z4 has it, but it's a 2003: it has a projector on the outer light for the Xenon and a traditional reflector for the inner halogen flasher. We don't have DRL on ours, but they would be on the halogen... Traditionally DRL had been a high-beam light but with lower current...
Posst-face lifts looks like the inner light is just a dummy (it looks like a cromed piece of plastic). I'm not sure how the DRL and the flasher is...
Interesting how the US facelift do 'flash to pass' I took one to pieces and the inner is actually a piece of dark blue semi transluscent plastic and IIRC just backlit to light the mock angel eye. the blue plastic presumably contributing a blue tint on the AE. Rather a tacky use of the light housing.
ZetaTre, Re: your post of 2008cj10jeeper said:
We lived in North San Diego County and maybe you could help us with our old 2003 Z4 2.5. Had a run-in with a deer up here in Washington and now it looks like the inner head light (high beam) does not come on at all. Your post says it might just be a dummy. There is a light bulb in the socket but cannot get it to light on high or low beams. Is that the way it was designed, not to work? We only replaced the left headlight bucket but the right is the same way. Or are the two in parallel so that if one doesn't work then neither work.
Thanks for your indulgence.
Ghianut1