Working through the niggles

Jcm325 said:
Roof drains were blocked top and bottom, took ages to clear all the crap out of the holes at the top kept clogging up as I poured water in...I was unable to fully rod the drains through is there something in there like a flap valve or something? Couldn't get anything to go all the way through, rodded up from the bottom and down from the top but no joy.
The tube consists of two parts connected in the middle. Never heard that happen, but vigorous sonding could disconnect the tubes and I believe they’re hard to access for reconnecting. I usually use a silicone tube connected to a vacuum cleaner to remove debris from both ends.

IMG_0954.jpegIMG_0955.jpegIMG_0956.jpeg
 
Jcm325 said:
A couple of questions if anyone has any input

1) DISA Valve , what's the consensus? Buy new or do the mod with the threaded bolt etc
I've checked it and its fine at the moment no play etc

2)Headlight washers should the fuse be pulled? Do they definitely all fail/ disappear eventually?
Mine work fine so far

3) Door handle sticking, what's the best fix for this? Lots of opinions and chat but no definite answer on what the best option is with regards to new cables or handle assembly or packing out with washers!

Any info greatly appreciated

Just my opinion of course............
1. If it's fine leave it but check every now and then. If the car is a keeper then spend a little more for the metal mod.
2. Yes. Yes.
3. If the door opens with a little push inwards then start with a new cable. It is when it starts to stick that people heave on the handle and damage the interlocking plastic teeth. So catch it quick and the cable should do the trick.
 
DMike said:
Jcm325 said:
Roof drains were blocked top and bottom, took ages to clear all the crap out of the holes at the top kept clogging up as I poured water in...I was unable to fully rod the drains through is there something in there like a flap valve or something? Couldn't get anything to go all the way through, rodded up from the bottom and down from the top but no joy.
The tube consists of two parts connected in the middle. Never heard that happen, but vigorous sonding could disconnect the tubes and I believe they’re hard to access for reconnecting. I usually use a silicone tube connected to a vacuum cleaner to remove debris from both ends.

IMG_0954.jpegIMG_0955.jpegIMG_0956.jpeg
Thanks, definitely couldn't rod through although looking at your pictures they appear straight? Maybe there's something in there? Can anyone confirm if these normally rod through easily
I will boroscope it when I get chance
 
enuff_zed said:
Jcm325 said:
A couple of questions if anyone has any input

1) DISA Valve , what's the consensus? Buy new or do the mod with the threaded bolt etc
I've checked it and its fine at the moment no play etc

2)Headlight washers should the fuse be pulled? Do they definitely all fail/ disappear eventually?
Mine work fine so far

3) Door handle sticking, what's the best fix for this? Lots of opinions and chat but no definite answer on what the best option is with regards to new cables or handle assembly or packing out with washers!

Any info greatly appreciated

Just my opinion of course............
1. If it's fine leave it but check every now and then. If the car is a keeper then spend a little more for the metal mod.
2. Yes. Yes.
3. If the door opens with a little push inwards then start with a new cable. It is when it starts to stick that people heave on the handle and damage the interlocking plastic teeth. So catch it quick and the cable should do the trick.

Thanks
I will do the disa mod for peace of mind I think
Fuse is pulled
I'll look into a new cable as the door works if I put my knee on it
 
Headlight restoration done
Quite pleased, used a kit from halfords made by holts only £15
No before shot as I was too impatient
For those who haven't done it, its easy but hard work make sure you remove all oxidation etc with the low grade disc before moving up the grades .
I also did a lot by hand to ensure even coverage but the drill attachment is fine.
 

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New tyres x4 today
Old tyres were a mix of good/bad but all 4 were on the wear indicators
Went with Falken azenis fk520 which seem to have fairly good reviews.
£440 all in just what I needed in January
 
I used Falkens for years on a previous 130i. As do many other BMW folk. They were great, but the previous version to the 520.
I've since put the 520s on the E86 and still they feel excellent.
I also went from Pilot Sport 4 to Falken 520 on the front of the 340i, no regrets and I'll probably put them on the rear when the PS 5's wear out.
 
That's good to hear..
Tyres are a minefield and its all subjective
I think anything will be an improvement on what was there 🤔
 
Jcm325 said:
That's good to hear..
Tyres are a minefield and its all subjective
I think anything will be an improvement on what was there 🤔

Yes, some folk say a tyre is excellent, another guy will come along and say it immediately turned his car into a death trap.
Stick with the popular options generally and you can't go wrong.
I started to use Falken Azenis years ago when they got a good reception on the BMW forums, I've never found a reason not to use them since.
I'm not a finely tuned racing driver with pin sharp senses to really notice the difference between tyres in the same mid-performance category.
Between budget and high-performance, maybe I could.
 
Ok next fault
Water in both footwells, done my research and door membrane seem favourite culprits, door card off and the membrane are good with the correct sealant butyl stuff around the periphery.
Closed the doors gave the car a good hose down and this is what I find. 20240229_131132.jpg20240229_114005.jpg20240229_131056.jpg20240229_105950.jpg
Next I made 2 drain holes near the pooling water, the door seal already has some factory holes .20240229_131236.jpg
This wasn't enough to stop the water spilling over so I decided to pack the seal out at the top to stop the water running down inside the door and pooling at the bottom. 20240229_121655.jpg
This now seems to have stopped the water.
I also packed out the lower part of the inner seal next to the pooling just to encourage the water down the drain hole20240229_121753.jpg
So hopefully thats it sorted, couldn't think of another way to do it, maybe a new seal would cure it but I'm not convinced , the door performs a seal when closed but this water sort of runs down the inside almost above the seal..
Hope this helps someone whose struggling with water ingress
 

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Next fault

This car is consistent!!! If you search z4 common faults and write a list , I have been able to tick them off one by one.

Wipers started behaving erratically, stopping in different places or not working at all.
Good old forum to the rescue and its probably the motor itself.
Took it all apart and yes grease everywhere and rust and water.
Cleaned all the contacts and removed rust and excess grease, wipers now seem to work fine!

My drivers wiper arm has a bit of play? Even when bolted down you can move the whole arm assembly about 10 - 20 mm any fix for this?
 
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