Won't start but all electrics work fine?
- Thread starter Tommy_C
- Start date
Tommy_C said:
Under load (lights on etc.)it will read lower than nominal voltage of 12.6V , try connecting the jump leads again and leave the donor car running for 10 minutes and increase the revs to about 2000 RPM this will give your battery a quick charge from the donor car, and try to start again also while reving the donor car !
If it starts ...then your battery is low on charge ...probably will mean the battery is F¤%ed, as you've had no warning lights on to suggest that it's not charging.
If it does start you can check the voltage again when running, should be about 13.5 v to 14.5v, depending on revs and condition of the battery good luck
Left it connected to the van for about 25 minutes whilst it was running, charge went from 11.8 - 12.0 and as soon as you try start it back down to 11.8.
Connected a new battery however that won't start it either.
Despairing, got a new starter earlier but was hoping I could return it without opening the box - looks like I'll be fitting it now!
Connected a new battery however that won't start it either.
Despairing, got a new starter earlier but was hoping I could return it without opening the box - looks like I'll be fitting it now!
To summarise this morning...
Checked earths all seem fine, bump started and started up fine. Went for 10 mile drive with new battery fitted, came back - starter not even clicking now.
Think the only option is now to remove old starter and replace, noticed most places say E10 socket but as far as I can tell it's an E12?! It's also a nightmare to get to as it's right below manifold/behind the sound gen etc. Even with air box and sound gen removed there's so many pipes and cables it's a tight working area!
Checked earths all seem fine, bump started and started up fine. Went for 10 mile drive with new battery fitted, came back - starter not even clicking now.
Think the only option is now to remove old starter and replace, noticed most places say E10 socket but as far as I can tell it's an E12?! It's also a nightmare to get to as it's right below manifold/behind the sound gen etc. Even with air box and sound gen removed there's so many pipes and cables it's a tight working area!
12v is low as already said. Needs a charge at least.
no1beyondfan
Member
Hi I think I am having the same problem as we speak!!!!! But I got a new battery about a year ago?
I did use my batter to jump a little polo quite often ? Plus it's cold.
I hear the starter plug, all electronics have reset itself . There was some battery , but after many attempts I think I have drained it.
Best bet replace the battery first?
I did use my batter to jump a little polo quite often ? Plus it's cold.
I hear the starter plug, all electronics have reset itself . There was some battery , but after many attempts I think I have drained it.
Best bet replace the battery first?
Battery is 12.6v/14 when running, of assumed a good 10 minutes ticking over and a 20 minute blast would have charged it a fair bit? Worth leaving it idling for an hour to put more juice in it? As said I haven't got a charger or anything like that.
Thanks guys appreciate all your efforts!
Thanks guys appreciate all your efforts!
So...
Have you fitted a new battery or just connected one via jumpleads? Correct voltage Battery ?
Every time a car is started you need a 20 min run of the car to retain the battery charge,Remember a starter motor is just like dead shorting the battery momentarily..
Checking just the voltage doesnt tell the whole tale with battery condition. It needs a drop test at a minimum... It could easily retain 12v + but under crank the cells could collapse..
When you are trying to jump start it,or putting leads on with a slave battery it doesnt really tell you anything as the bad battery is still in line and could be the weak link..
I would certainly get the battery charged and tested..
Of course... If you fitted the new battery in the car,then dismiss all the above...........lol.....
Have you fitted a new battery or just connected one via jumpleads? Correct voltage Battery ?
Every time a car is started you need a 20 min run of the car to retain the battery charge,Remember a starter motor is just like dead shorting the battery momentarily..
Checking just the voltage doesnt tell the whole tale with battery condition. It needs a drop test at a minimum... It could easily retain 12v + but under crank the cells could collapse..
When you are trying to jump start it,or putting leads on with a slave battery it doesnt really tell you anything as the bad battery is still in line and could be the weak link..
I would certainly get the battery charged and tested..
Of course... If you fitted the new battery in the car,then dismiss all the above...........lol.....
Tommy_C said:
Hi,
I don't know where the earth lead is... but if you have an Ohm meter you can check the earthing of the engine.
Put one lead on the engine (not a painted part) and one on the body(the part where you put the negative lead when jump starting) , you should get 0.0 to 2.0 ohms meaning it is earthed properly !
When you say you have 12 volts at the solenoid do you mean the small connection when attempting to start or the large one ?
Tommy_C said:
Hi,
there should be a small wire 3-4mm thick that should go live when starting.
That's the wire that activates the solenoid, closing the contacts (in the solenoid) and sending power through the larger cables to make the starter turn, if there is no power to that wire it will not crank over !
fixit man said:Hi,
there should be a small wire 3-4mm thick that should go live when starting.
That's the wire that activates the solenoid, closing the contacts (in the solenoid) and sending power through the larger cables to make the starter turn, if there is no power to that wire it will not crank over !
I think I know the wire you mean, the smaller of the two negatives coming off the solenoid? So between the +'ve and that wire there should be 12+v when cracking?
Hi,
this is a bit difficult eh ? ..to explain I mean !
I wasn't aware that there were two negatives, I have never seen a Z4 starter but they are generally the same these days ...normally a starter has two wires going to it, one big lead about the thickness of your little finger that goes to the solenoid held on with a 13mm nut, and is live all the time.
Across from that is another cable more or less same size that is also held on with a 13mm nut and it goes into the starter to crank it (that should be live when turning the key to start.
The second small wire about 3mm (I mentioned before) is also live when turning the key, I wish I had the time and know how to send you a diagram !
try this link for info. good luck
http://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Electrical/Starter_Motor/Reduction_Type
this is a bit difficult eh ? ..to explain I mean !
I wasn't aware that there were two negatives, I have never seen a Z4 starter but they are generally the same these days ...normally a starter has two wires going to it, one big lead about the thickness of your little finger that goes to the solenoid held on with a 13mm nut, and is live all the time.
Across from that is another cable more or less same size that is also held on with a 13mm nut and it goes into the starter to crank it (that should be live when turning the key to start.
The second small wire about 3mm (I mentioned before) is also live when turning the key, I wish I had the time and know how to send you a diagram !
try this link for info. good luck
http://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Electrical/Starter_Motor/Reduction_Type