Which engine oil?
- Thread starter RX-78
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lacroupade
Veteran
E85 said:
I'm sure you just wrote something, but that avatar is blinding me.....dribble... :dizzy:
Hey guys, can u help me with engine oil. I am new here and from California, US.After reading your posts I have tried to find Castrol Edge 0W-40 oil in the United States , but i guess they dont have it here. What would you recommend of the same kind of oil that i can buy in the US?i want 0w-40 because i heard it helps to eliminate rattling sound from the engine, which i also have. Thnx
Small thread resurrect... 
I'm using Castrol 10W40 (I think) for my 2.2i... Thinking it is not too fluid (which I was advised upon when I had my 911, 996) I'm assuming it's good for my Zed. But is that any good? Would anyone advise anything else?
I don't have any oil issues (I think) so far. But I did notice that I seem to be consuming a little more oil than before. But it could well just be an impression...
Anyway, should I use 0W30 from now on? Is it OK to just start using other oil even if the old oil is still (partly) in the reservoir?
Appologies for the stupid questions, but I really have no idea on what oil is best...
I'm using Castrol 10W40 (I think) for my 2.2i... Thinking it is not too fluid (which I was advised upon when I had my 911, 996) I'm assuming it's good for my Zed. But is that any good? Would anyone advise anything else?
I don't have any oil issues (I think) so far. But I did notice that I seem to be consuming a little more oil than before. But it could well just be an impression...
Anyway, should I use 0W30 from now on? Is it OK to just start using other oil even if the old oil is still (partly) in the reservoir?
Appologies for the stupid questions, but I really have no idea on what oil is best...
Bad, had the same issue with my mum's 35i and what oil.
Took a trip down to BMW and the guys at the service all said 0w30.
There seems to be a general consensus that the 0w30 should be the better choice over 5w30 (as that was what the book suggested to use).
Down to the brand, well I went for Castrol. Easier for warranty purposes as they can't say oil was used outside of the manufacturer's recommendations.
Took a trip down to BMW and the guys at the service all said 0w30.
There seems to be a general consensus that the 0w30 should be the better choice over 5w30 (as that was what the book suggested to use).
Down to the brand, well I went for Castrol. Easier for warranty purposes as they can't say oil was used outside of the manufacturer's recommendations.
this is the repsonse I got from OPIE oils (whom I believe have a very good reputation)
"You need an engine oil that meets the BMW LL01 or LL04 specification. Our selection can be found through the link below
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-685-bmw-longlife-01.aspx
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-686-bmw-longlife-04.aspx
The oils are all good oils as they need to be to meet the BMW specification, so take your pick based on any price/brand preference you have, although if it burns at lot of oil, go for one of the 5w-40s."
"You need an engine oil that meets the BMW LL01 or LL04 specification. Our selection can be found through the link below
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-685-bmw-longlife-01.aspx
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-686-bmw-longlife-04.aspx
The oils are all good oils as they need to be to meet the BMW specification, so take your pick based on any price/brand preference you have, although if it burns at lot of oil, go for one of the 5w-40s."
I did a DIY mid cycle oil change in March.
I used Fuchs Titan GT1 Pro flex XTL 5w30 which is BMW LL02 approved. got 10 litres for £50 from opieoils.
I have been much happier with the way my engine sounds at idle compared with whatever BMW put in there in November last year, engine seems less rattly (other than the gearbox inout shaft which rattles when clutch is not pressed).
Any HLV noise seems to have gone too, and after 4 months of daily driving I have used no oil at all (according to the display).
I used Fuchs Titan GT1 Pro flex XTL 5w30 which is BMW LL02 approved. got 10 litres for £50 from opieoils.
I have been much happier with the way my engine sounds at idle compared with whatever BMW put in there in November last year, engine seems less rattly (other than the gearbox inout shaft which rattles when clutch is not pressed).
Any HLV noise seems to have gone too, and after 4 months of daily driving I have used no oil at all (according to the display).
Guys just to clarify on what the oil symbols mean.
As far as i'm aware (I stand to be corrected if someone else tells me otherwise), both symbols relate to oil thinkness:
The first relates to how thick the oil is while COLD. The second relates to how thick an oil is while HOT.
During winter, oil is more viscous - its thicker because it's colder. Hence, you're better using an oil with a lower rating to help it circulate around the engine faster.
EG, lets say someone uses 10w40 oil on a standard car (a corsa or something similar). You might want to use 5w30 or 5w40 in the winter.
In my car (Z), i'm currently using 5W40. I would not recommend anyone use more than 5W (cold oil temp viscosity) in our cars as it may be too thick. Use 0W or 5W instead.
As for the HOT oil viscosity, use either 30 or 40. Anything more will possibly be too thick, and will also reduce performance & MPG a little as the friction is increased.
I'll probably use 0W30 in winter, and 5w40 in summer.
Hope that helps!
As far as i'm aware (I stand to be corrected if someone else tells me otherwise), both symbols relate to oil thinkness:
The first relates to how thick the oil is while COLD. The second relates to how thick an oil is while HOT.
During winter, oil is more viscous - its thicker because it's colder. Hence, you're better using an oil with a lower rating to help it circulate around the engine faster.
EG, lets say someone uses 10w40 oil on a standard car (a corsa or something similar). You might want to use 5w30 or 5w40 in the winter.
In my car (Z), i'm currently using 5W40. I would not recommend anyone use more than 5W (cold oil temp viscosity) in our cars as it may be too thick. Use 0W or 5W instead.
As for the HOT oil viscosity, use either 30 or 40. Anything more will possibly be too thick, and will also reduce performance & MPG a little as the friction is increased.
I'll probably use 0W30 in winter, and 5w40 in summer.
Hope that helps!
Ok so ive been told that as these engine have Hydraulic lifters, you don't need shims. but with a car that has 100k on the clock ive been advised that the valves could have worn and so that hydrolics can't adjust any further! ive been told that using some thicker oil could help with this issue? if so what oil should i use?
So guys; I've bought the recommend engine oil for my 2006 2.0i but I'm not sure what oil was in the engine before buying the car a few months back.
Will I cause more problems by topping up with a potentially different oil to what was in before, do I need to do a full oil change and top up with the same brand of oil following that? Or am I being a hypochondriac? haha.
Any tips appreciated.
Will I cause more problems by topping up with a potentially different oil to what was in before, do I need to do a full oil change and top up with the same brand of oil following that? Or am I being a hypochondriac? haha.
Any tips appreciated.
North West Surrey
I think I would probably take it back.
I used to use Castrol Edge Titanium fully synthetic 0W/30 for top-ups in my Z4 but last time I got a good deal on a Shell alternative, which made more sense as that is what my BMW Indy puts in when he does an oil change!
Just look for the BMW "LL" accreditation on the container - I'm pretty sure it was LL01 for pre-facelifts and LL04 for facelifts.
I used to use Castrol Edge Titanium fully synthetic 0W/30 for top-ups in my Z4 but last time I got a good deal on a Shell alternative, which made more sense as that is what my BMW Indy puts in when he does an oil change!
Just look for the BMW "LL" accreditation on the container - I'm pretty sure it was LL01 for pre-facelifts and LL04 for facelifts.