Which Battery

K

Keekodog

Member
Went to start the Z on Saturday but the battery has given up.
Looking at various websites for a replacement and none seem to quote the same dimensions as the battery i have now. In particular the width, current battery is 315 but most websites say the new battery would be 278
Will the 278 fit or will it move about?
Thanks
 
Keekodog said:
Went to start the Z on Saturday but the battery has given up.
Looking at various websites for a replacement and none seem to quote the same dimensions as the battery i have now. In particular the width, current battery is 315 but most websites say the new battery would be 278
Will the 278 fit or will it move about?
Thanks
Click to expand...

Forum member recommended this batt to me, perfect!
Varta E44 Silverline
 
Try Tayna batteries, ECPs or Amazon.
https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/varta/e44/ 79.52 inc. VAT&PRICE

£ 7.98 inc. STANDARD DELIVERY.
 
This is the one you want... https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F253245412713
 
I purchased a new battery in November from Euro car parts and they had a discount code of 37 % so was a bargain, I can not remember the sizes but I measured the old BMW one and entered all the details printed on the battery and it showed two or three options, I didn’t choose a battery recommended from my Registration as the output was lower and wanted the same as the BMW battery which was 15 years old before it died :thumbsup:

Worth checking for discounts before you buy

Cheers Steve
 
I got onr from eurocar parts and used a 52% off code to bring it down from £150 to under £75

Perfect size 238mm x 190mm high x 175mm deep
 
agrimes1989 said:
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:thumbsup: +1 Eurocarparts 5 yr warranty and 50% discount code on receipt. Was replaced in mine by previous owner not long before I bought it
 
Keekodog said:
Went to start the Z on Saturday but the battery has given up.
Looking at various websites for a replacement and none seem to quote the same dimensions as the battery i have now. In particular the width, current battery is 315 but most websites say the new battery would be 278
Will the 278 fit or will it move about?
Thanks
Click to expand...

It's the amp rating and CCC that really matter, more than size, so make sure they're both correct. What you need to remember is that a battery pulls charge from the alternator, rather than the alternator passing charge to the battery, and so the correct ampere/hour is really important as that can (and will) help an alternator (and specifically the regulator pack) to an early grave.

Don't waste your time with the cheap EuroCarPart Lion Batteries, my TT would eat one of those every winter and it's all down to the spacing on the plates and the jackets.
 
The Bosch and Varta suggestions above are good. Just bear in mind that sometimes you pay more for a battery with a longer manufacturer warranty, but this isn’t worth as much if the reseller also provides one. :thumbsup:

eddiemunster said:
It's the amp rating and CCC that really matter, more than size, so make sure they're both correct. What you need to remember is that a battery pulls charge from the alternator, rather than the alternator passing charge to the battery, and so the correct ampere/hour is really important as that can (and will) help an alternator (and specifically the regulator pack) to an early grave.
Click to expand...

Where did you get this info from?

CCA matters yes, but nearly all new lead acid car batteries will be fine in this respect.

Capacity doesn’t matter for alternator health unless you are regularly running your battery down by idling or using ancillaries without the engine started (some people get away with 30Ah for daily drivers and as low as 10Ah for track use). Even then, it’s far more likely you’ll need a new battery long before you need a new alternator/regulator. Your alternator shouldn't be under significant load, apart from in the few minutes immediately after a start. In some scenarios this period could actually be longer with a higher capacity battery, depending on how deep the battery can be discharged and still maintain CCA.
 
MrPT said:
Where did you get this info from?
Click to expand...

Working for companies that design batteries, often for cars, more often for the military/heavy plant.

MrPT said:
CCA matters yes, but nearly all new lead acid car batteries will be fine in this respect.
Click to expand...

I'd disagree with that, "nearly all new lead acid" batteries aren't the same, in how they store charge, how they hold charge and how they provide charge. Plate density doesn't just determine cranking charge, it also determines reliability particularly in situations where the car isn't started for a period of time, or when there isn't enough running time to adequately replace charge.

MrPT said:
Capacity doesn’t matter for alternator health unless you are regularly running your battery down by idling or using ancillaries without the engine
Click to expand...

Once the engine is turning the main power source will be the alternator, but the battery will still pull charge from the alternator; the wrong capacity will mean that it's continually trying to over-draw and that affects the regulator. The alternator does not pass charge, the battery pulls charge.
 
eddiemunster said:
MrPT said:
Where did you get this info from?
Click to expand...

Working for companies that design batteries, often for cars, more often for the military/heavy plant.
Click to expand...

Ok, but this doesn't tally with what you are saying.

MrPT said:
CCA matters yes, but nearly all new lead acid car batteries will be fine in this respect.
Click to expand...

I'd disagree with that, "nearly all new lead acid" batteries aren't the same, in how they store charge, how they hold charge and how they provide charge. Plate density doesn't just determine cranking charge, it also determines reliability particularly in situations where the car isn't started for a period of time, or when there isn't enough running time to adequately replace charge.
Click to expand...

It's not plate density that's important for starting; it's power density, i.e. ability to handle the instantaneous CCA. If anything it's less dense plates you need for starting because thin plates mean low resistance and more surface area. Thicker plates are better for deep cycling - not starting.

Adequate CCA to start a modern car is not a challenge for most off-the-shelf lead acid batteries (even cheap ones). Far better to go OE or by manufacturer reputation (hence Bosch, Varta etc). The SAE ratings are for temperatures we never see in this country so there is loads of headroom.

MrPT said:
Capacity doesn’t matter for alternator health unless you are regularly running your battery down by idling or using ancillaries without the engine
Click to expand...

Once the engine is turning the main power source will be the alternator, but the battery will still pull charge from the alternator; the wrong capacity will mean that it's continually trying to over-draw and that affects the regulator. The alternator does not pass charge, the battery pulls charge.
Click to expand...

The regulator is just trying to equalise the potential in the electrical system, so the current draw is a function of the capacity vs voltage of the battery, which is a shape unique to each battery and significantly differs between different battery technologies. You can have low capacity batteries (like lithium race batteries) that can still provide stable CCAs in a moderate state of discharge.

I don't want to start an argument, I'm just saying that (beyond the OE spec) higher != better in respect to CCA and capacity for these batteries, and it's irresponsible to advise otherwise because that's a route to wasting your money on cheap batteries with big numbers on the front.
 
MrPT said:
I don't want to start an argument, I'm just saying that (beyond the OE spec) higher != better in respect to CCA and capacity for these batteries, and it's irresponsible to advise otherwise because that's a route to wasting your money on cheap batteries with big numbers on the front.
Click to expand...

And that's exactly my point, buying the correct battery for the application and therefore not spending falsely on a seemingly cheap alternative. That's the same advice I'd give on any aspect, from a bulb to a bell-housing.
 
Was just about to post that I received an email from euro car parts for a flash sale of 50%off batteries but have been beaten too it
Reserved a bosch and will collect tomorrow
Thanks for all your help
 
Try Battery Megastore, Euro Car Parts prices are more than double theirs and the 50% discount still doesn't match the prices.
It's also worth knowing that Bosch and Varta are the same batteries produced in the same factory but labelled differently, the Bosch S5 008 is the same battery as the Varta E44, see the link below

https://www.batterymegastore.co.uk/accessories/bosch/s5-008-bosch-car-battery-12v-77ah-type-096-s5008.html
 
Just ordered another on Tayna with discount on Facebook...

Thank you for your order!
Order Details
Product Quantity Price E44 Varta Silver Dynamic Car Battery 77Ah 1£79.52 P&P £7.98 Discount £2.39 TOTAL £85.11

£95.49 with discount on ECPs
£88.00 Batt megastore with delivery but out of stock.
 
Fitted today, perfect fit. Photo for those who want to find the right size battery. Gave my first one away to a friend.
Had a new smaller one lying about about so that was in it before this, cannot understand maybe a placebo or just me but car seems to idle very smoothly with the right CCA 780A and 77A capacity. :oldman:
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