What's the best DIY Brake Bleed Kit

enuff_zed

Lifer
 Attleborough, Norfolk
Well wifey arrived home with a smoking front right brake and it is nicely seized up. I've decided to do the whole front end overhaul as the existing kit is looking quite old. So new discs, pads, calipers and flexi hoses. Just waiting on the new slider pins and I'm set to go.

I've dug out my old Eezibleed kit but it is at least 25 years old and I'm not entirely certain it will seal any more.

Question is, do I get a new one, or do I get one of the vacuum pump types that suck the fluid through from the bleed screw?

I'm assuming plenty of you will have used these and can advise me the best way to spend my money?
 
This method worked a treat for me:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ag-Q_lP0dOk&list=LL&index=39&t=375s&ab_channel=1AAuto%3ARepairTips%26SecretsOnlyMechanicsKnow
 
mgrlane said:
This method worked a treat for me:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ag-Q_lP0dOk&list=LL&index=39&t=375s&ab_channel=1AAuto%3ARepairTips%26SecretsOnlyMechanicsKnow
Agreed that is the cheapest way and would probably work well.
I have had previous issues though, with pumping the pedal past its normal range of movement. This can cause the seals in the master cylinder to ride over small build-ups of 'varnish' in the cylinder, causing them to leak. Then you can be into m/c changes as well. Any system using pressure that does not need the pedal pumped prevents this.
 
I had an Eezibleed, but it started leaking again (this was my second, and has already had new o-rings to combat the last leak!).

I splashed out on a a Sealey bleeder - half the reviews said it was fantastic, half said it leaked. Mine turned up and leaked - until I found a tip online to put silicone grease around the cap and it was fine. Way easier than trying to deflate a spare tyre to the right pressure.

emHetUA.jpg
 
I use this, but on by partners Grand Vitara, the brake cylinder cap is not a screw on fitment (its a pop on/off), and the "Heath Robinson" one I made doesn't seal properly, even with very low pressure. However, its been fine on ones with screw type fitments.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/GUNSON-G4062F-Gunson-G4062-Eezibleed/dp/B001KTFIWA
 
clarker63 said:
I use this, but on by partners Grand Vitara, the brake cylinder cap is not a screw on fitment (its a pop on/off), and the "Heath Robinson" one I made doesn't seal properly, even with very low pressure. However, its been fine on ones with screw type fitments.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/GUNSON-G4062F-Gunson-G4062-Eezibleed/dp/B001KTFIWA
Not changed a bit since I bought mine last century :roll:
Think it's either a new one of these or a hand operated vacuum pump if anyone has any thoughts on them?
 
enuff_zed said:
Not changed a bit since I bought mine last century
I think I bought mine in the 1980s (showing our ages here)! I was interested to see the others but generally they the same.
 
Anyone got any thoughts on this type? Looking at the type, not necessarily this model.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Hand-Held-Vacuum-Pressure-Pump-Tester-Brake-Fluid-Bleeder-Bleeding-Test-Set/224325819827?hash=item343adc5db3:g:GgoAAOSwtrZgCVJd
 
I’ve never had any success with pumping the brake pedal on the Z, despite having done lots of previous cars this way with no problems. Pressure bleeder is the only thing that works in my experience.
 
Pressure bleeders is the way to go, if the system has been drained or level has been allowed to fall too low in the reservoir you may also need to activate the ABS pump using INPA diagnostic software to force any air out of that as well as bleeding each caliper. Don't forget the clutch cylinder, if levels have been allowed to go low that may need bleeding as well.
 
colb said:
Pressure bleeders is the way to go, if the system has been drained or level has been allowed to fall too low in the reservoir you may also need to activate the ABS pump using INPA diagnostic software to force any air out of that as well as bleeding each caliper. Don't forget the clutch cylinder, if levels have been allowed to go low that may need bleeding as well.
Should be ok on that front I hope. Changing both front calipers but one at a time as I have to turn the car round in the garage to access the other side. I'll be keeping the reservoir topped up as I go.
So are you advocating pressure over vacuum then?
 
enuff_zed said:
colb said:
Pressure bleeders is the way to go, if the system has been drained or level has been allowed to fall too low in the reservoir you may also need to activate the ABS pump using INPA diagnostic software to force any air out of that as well as bleeding each caliper. Don't forget the clutch cylinder, if levels have been allowed to go low that may need bleeding as well.
Should be ok on that front I hope. Changing both front calipers but one at a time as I have to turn the car round in the garage to access the other side. I'll be keeping the reservoir topped up as I go.
So are you advocating pressure over vacuum then?

Vacuum is pressure, just a negative as opposed to a positive one :wink:
Rob
 
Smartbear explains the difference well, I have an old Gunsons Eazibleed kit that pressurises the master cylinder reservoir using air pressure from a spare tyre at around 17psi, must keep the reservoir topped up as you go which can be a bit of a faff. Just bought an alternative vaccum bleeder that is used with my compressor and has a top up reservoir that feeds the reservoir automatically, all the bleeding is done at the calipers with the unit sucking the fluid out of the bleed nipple into its built in catch tank on the unit. Not used it yet waiting for the weather to get warmer so I can fit a set of stainless pipes to the calipers and sort an advisory I had on one of the rear brake lines at the last MOT.
 
colb said:
Smartbear explains the difference well
Except it doesn't answer which is best. I like you (and enuff) have the original gunsons one, and the question is how good are the vaccum ones. for me (as I described) the pressure one has issues with certain caps, whereas the vaccum one seems a very good idea...
 
clarker63 said:
colb said:
Smartbear explains the difference well
Except it doesn't answer which is best. I like you (and enuff) have the original gunsons one, and the question is how good are the vaccum ones. for me (as I described) the pressure one has issues with certain caps, whereas the vaccum one seems a very good idea...

Well the issue is going round in circles a bit.
I still have my old eezibleed kit, but I didn't want to wait until the car is all jacked up only to find the kit is knackered.
So I think, in the interests of research, I will invest in a basic vacuum kit. That gives me two chances of getting it bled properly and covers me if the eezibleed won't work.
I'll let you know how I get on.
Still waiting for the new slider pins atm.
 
enuff_zed said:
clarker63 said:
colb said:
Smartbear explains the difference well
Except it doesn't answer which is best. I like you (and enuff) have the original gunsons one, and the question is how good are the vaccum ones. for me (as I described) the pressure one has issues with certain caps, whereas the vaccum one seems a very good idea...

Well the issue is going round in circles a bit.
I still have my old eezibleed kit, but I didn't want to wait until the car is all jacked up only to find the kit is knackered.
So I think, in the interests of research, I will invest in a basic vacuum kit. That gives me two chances of getting it bled properly and covers me if the eezibleed won't work.
I'll let you know how I get on.
Still waiting for the new slider pins atm.

Let us know how you get on, no pressure :P
Rob
 
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