What have you done to your car today?

[patriot66]

Interesting... On e39 they were said to hold all the way to 300.000km before really going bad. They don't feel soft or anything anyway...

I bet they are completely goosed ! The rear of my 2014 F11 on 175,000km recently started getting very bouncy (air suspension on the rear on Touring) so I replaced all 4 shocks with oem Sachs....MUCH better ! Do yourself a massive favour and fit new shocks

 

[x-driver]

I haven't really heard a good opinion on B4s, so sachs or B6s or something 3rd maybe? Sachs w/o bmw logo are way cheaper than OE, but might also go bad in a short time, had such a problem on my e39...
B4s are also meant for stock suspension I believe, not really for sport suspension?

 

[Fred Smith]

I haven't really heard a good opinion on B4s, so sachs or B6s or something 3rd maybe? Sachs w/o bmw logo are way cheaper than OE, but might also go bad in a short time, had such a problem on my e39...
B4s are also meant for stock suspension I believe, not really for sport suspension?

I believe this to be true but please double check (and please correct me everyone)

B4s are meant for SE and M-Sport level suspension coils and are somewhat equivalent to OEM Sachs dampers.
B6s are meant to M-Sport if you want a firmer ride.
B8s are firm like B6s, but are designed to go with lowering coils.

 

[enuff_zed]

I haven't really heard a good opinion on B4s, so sachs or B6s or something 3rd maybe? Sachs w/o bmw logo are way cheaper than OE, but might also go bad in a short time, had such a problem on my e39...
B4s are also meant for stock suspension I believe, not really for sport suspension?

Whilst original Sport shocks, as fitted by BMW, were Sachs with 'sport' on them, now you can really only get standard ones. I have fitted countless front Sachs struts on both SE and Sport suspension. They easily cope with the slightly different ride height.
Bilstein B4 are a direct equivalent. Fitting either of those will be fine.
I've lost count of the amount of people who have asked me to swap cracked top mounts and baulked at the suggestion of changing the old shocks too, only to go away amazed at how much different their car feels. The usual statement is "I just assumed it was supposed to crash like that, being a sporty car."

 

[x-driver]

Aren't original shocks for sport suspension a bit shorter than stock ones? Again, in e39 case it is a fact. Therefore I have doubts in universal replacement for both suspensions. I'll check part numbers for each if there are actually 2 different.

Edit: see the photo.

 

[x-driver]

One more question - which brand for strut top mounts is worth buying?

 

[enuff_zed]

Aren't original shocks for sport suspension a bit shorter than stock ones?

Yes, hence my clear reference to the originals having 'sport' on them.
My point was that it is almost impossible to find Sport ones now (possibly BMW would trade your mortgage for a pair?)
The difference in ride height is well within the capabilities of the standard shocks and unless you are insistent on originality they will be absolutely fine.

 

[x-driver]

Is it possible that B4s would lift a car on sport suspension a little?

 

[enuff_zed]

Is it possible that B4s would lift a car on sport suspension a little?

No the springs govern the height. No way a compressible shock absorber will lift a heavy car. Same goes for Sachs.
Remember that on the suspension it is the spring that actually absorbs the shock. What we commonly refer to as a shock absorber is in fact a damper that limits the amount of times the spring goes up and down.

 

[x-driver]

I understand the functions, but it has happened that someone replaced the shocks and the car lifted a bit. And the whole instalation was said to have been done right (tightening all the screws on the floor).
I also tried to compress a new shock and it was hard as hell. So maybe it can help the spring lift the car a little bit.
I could compress the old shock however.

 

[enuff_zed]

I understand the functions, but it has happened that someone replaced the shocks and the car lifted a bit. And the whole instalation was said to have been done right (tightening all the screws on the floor).
I also tried to compress a new shock and it was hard as hell. So maybe it can help the spring lift the car a little bit.
I could compress the old shock however.

Fair enough. You've had my input, it's up to you now.

 

[x-driver]

 

[3gGT01]

Mines had a full hit valet, decontaminated, buffed and polished! Not bad for 14 years old!

Also got round to fitting my 20mm spacers on the rear

Lookin good!

 

[Jollygiant]

Did this today....


and the final result is....


The new one is on the left. and someone in the cars past (I picked it up two weeks ago) had tried to spray the crazed paint with just a rattle can (the N/S/R is the same).
I did try to polish it out but it wasn't having any of it.

So I went on eBay and found someone locally selling the exact ones I need in the same colour on a BIN, so I put in a cheeky offer and it turns out the seller is on here (Usel) and he saw me on here and accepted my cheeky offer. So I went and them up at the weekend and today was the first chance I got to start fitting them.

It was all fairly straight forward but why the f**k did they put the screw's inside the wing? I changed a wing on my old 5 Series and they were all on the outside!


Once I've fitted the other one I will be offering them to anyone on here who wants the pair for £80. Visually they are bit rubbish but if you have damaged ones and want some cheap ones to paint they'll be fine.

 

[Fred Smith]

I understand the functions, but it has happened that someone replaced the shocks and the car lifted a bit. And the whole instalation was said to have been done right (tightening all the screws on the floor).
I also tried to compress a new shock and it was hard as hell. So maybe it can help the spring lift the car a little bit.
I could compress the old shock however.

Seems like an old shock that is much easier to compress than a new one might be worn out, even if it feels ok to you when driving!

 

[x-driver]

It sure is, I've tried it myself if it loses gas or oil, which actually give the resistance, it can't resist anymore

 

[ryushe]

Disclaimer, not just today, but last 2/3 weeks...

Replaced the disks & pads front and rear, replaced handbrake shoes, installed new front shocks (Bilstein B8s), replaced all interior bulbs with LEDs, installed LED light strip in boot (so much light all of a sudden!), replaced interior door handles as they were discoloured, replaced both cupholders with aftermarket ones, installed a permanent USB-A and USB-C charger port in the cover panel right above the roof controls, replaced front sway bar links, and replaced 3 out of 4 lambda / O2 sensors (can't get to the last one -- pre cat lower one).
Little other odds and ends, such as putting back some missing screws underneath the car, general cleaning, etc.

To do:

• Clean / repair driver's side sports seat bolsters
• Figure out how to get to O2 sensor #4
• Find a shop to do some paint correction *
• Find a shop to refurbish my style 152 rims *
• Figure out slight steering wheel vibrations around 60-70mph (car has been balanced and aligned after above work)

* I've found a few shops here in NL, and they charge INSANE prices compared to what I see on the forums you UK guys get, so any Dutchies have any suggestions?

 

[Calverz]

Taxed it... £415!!!

ouch. Direct Debit next year? And SORN for winter

Exactly my plan.

 

[3gGT01]

Disclaimer, not just today, but last 2/3 weeks...

Replaced the disks & pads front and rear, replaced handbrake shoes, installed new front shocks (Bilstein B8s), replaced all interior bulbs with LEDs, installed LED light strip in boot (so much light all of a sudden!), replaced interior door handles as they were discoloured, replaced both cupholders with aftermarket ones, installed a permanent USB-A and USB-C charger port in the cover panel right above the roof controls, replaced front sway bar links, and replaced 3 out of 4 lambda / O2 sensors (can't get to the last one -- pre cat lower one).
Little other odds and ends, such as putting back some missing screws underneath the car, general cleaning, etc.

Regarding replacement of O2’s sensors, that turned into a major ordeal/nightmare for me. This was my most recent project on my M. I had replaced the MAF sensor (no codes) and that fixed a forever intermittent bucking problem on take-off. The car was pretty much unsafe to drive due to the possibility of getting rear ended. The only way out was to get off the accelerator. I decided to replace all the O2 sensors too. I have the correct tools to remove them but one O2 sensor would not come out and I tried every trick in the book. Even purchased a big set of easy-outs, just made it worse and such a tight space to work. BTW, a friend of mine does custom cars from the ground up. He said heating SS just makes it worse, SS doesn’t act the same as regular metal. I ended up taking both headers off, had him cut it off as close as possible to the pipe and TIG weld a new bung on. It was a big drawn out job from start to finish. I purchased 2 O2’s from Amazon and 2 from Rockauto. Amazon seller never sent the O2 sensors and Amazon wanted an additional $60 to order again using Prime delivery. Ended up being very time consuming project. I just really didn’t want to remove those headers. They pretty much have to come out at the time. Replaced the header gaskets, the copper plated exhaust manifold nuts and the donuts at the exhaust pipe connections. All working very well now. No bucking on take off!

 

[Trav]

I had bought some Bilt Hamber Double speed wax that was supposed to be good for light coloured cars. Then remembered I still had some Collinite 845 in the garage so waxed with that instead. I suppose everyone is into ceramic coatings? I am still not sure of DIY'ing that so I will stick to wax for now.