what faults are these?

N

nightyard

Senior member
got some recurring fault codes. what do they mean??
could any of them be explained by a bad battery as I just had to jump start it as it went flat whilst I was reading and clearing these errors :thumbsdown:


Motor Control:
Engine / Motor
Fehler: Lambda control bank 1 limit / Misfire Cyl. 7 cat-dam / Fuel trim bank 1 limit values / Lambda control bank 1 control block / Lambda regulator limit bank 1
Code: 00CA
Fehler: Lambda regulation limit Bank2 / Lambda regulator limit bank 2 / Misfire Cyl. 8 Cat-dam / Fuel trim bank 2 limit values / Lambda control bank 2 control block / Zuendkreisueberwachung (shunt voltage measurement) OBDII fault!
Code: 00CB
ABS / DSC / Brake:
Airbag:
Airbag
ECU OK, no Fault Code
Transmission Control:
Transmission / Getriebe GS20
ECU OK, no Fault Code
Instrument cluster:
Instrument cluster / Kombiinstrument
ECU OK, no Fault Code
Light/Rain Control:
Light / Licht
ECU OK, no Fault Code
Heating / AC:
Air Condition / Klimaanlage
Fehler: :Mixed air sensor 1
Code: 000A
Fehler: sorry, unknown fault
Code: 008E
 
Reads like Cat' O2 sensors? If so they are voltage dependant (reporting the difference in voltage between the pre and post Cat sensors) so you may be wasting your time diagnosing codes unless you are sure your battery, charging and earthing continuity are correct. Low or intermittent current will throw all kinds of operating faults and random codes.
 
is that possible on a 6 cylinder engine? :?

a few weeks ago it was running rough when I started it and the revs dropped off when idling and engine cut out when I pressed accelerator.

before I cleared the faults there were also

f0, ef,44,cb,e4,e3 faults

I can also smell exhaust fumes when stationary if I have the air conditioning high :lol:.
also some hesitation on the accelerator
 
nightyard said:
so, get a good battery and then see if still getting faults??
thinking of a bosch S5 type 019
Click to expand...

Yep, low or intermittent current will make the car go crazy. Unless you are sure your battery and alternator are OK you are chasing mist. You can do a basic check with a Voltmeter over the battery terminals without the engine running looking for about 12.4 ish Volts. and with the engine running to test the alternator where a healthy alternator should be giving around 13.7v at idle, but not much over about 14.5v preferably. Significantly higher or lower than these readings indicates a problem.
 
If you are definatly in the correct diag section and your not trying to read your car as a 535 or 540 E39 I can't think why it would come up with the 7-8 misfire .

The codes you have are common for CCV valve or air leak into inlet..

Check rubber inlet hose for splitting and CCV operation for letting engine vacuum into crankcase
 
spent £120 and replaced battery...it needed to be replaced but it wasn't what was causing my problems..at least my car starts instantaneously now.

found that the air intake hose had a huge split in it... put my finger on the huge crack and the engine majorly picked up.

New hose ordered for £23 and my issues should be solved after I've fitted the new hose. :thumbsup:
 
Fitted pipe...car pulls like a tank now but when ive driven it and then turn off engine and turn it on again still warm ot is seriously underpowered and stalls sometimes ...any ideas..maybe ecu over compensating ? I dont know
 
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