Waterpump DIY

C

coupedan

Member
 West Berkshire
Morning Zedders,

I am hoping to tackle replacing my water pump on my Coupe today / tomorrow and doing some searches online, I cannot seem to find any how-to's (I know access isn't too difficult) but it's more of stuff such as torque settings and anything I should be aware of when replacing the electric water pump and T-stat?

It seems there is a bit on 3 and 5 series, however I know some of the applications are different for those..

Has anyone got some DIY how-to's at all?

Cheers,
Dan
 
Yeh, luckily access seems much better on the N52 in our cars - looks pretty simple. Personally I wouldn't bother replacing the thermostat unless your car is approaching 100k miles as I have never heard a single case of them failing. I think anyone around the 60k miles mark should consider changing the pump as a preventative maintenance measure though. They can be had for £250 or so now.

Don't forget the pump bleeding procedure afterwards:

1) Turn ignition on
2) Hold accelerator down for 10 secs
3) Pump kicks in and does a 12 minute self bleeding cycle while you go make a cup of tea.

If you have any bleed issues maybe give this more comprehensive procedure a go....
http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=488476
 
ph001 said:
Yeh, luckily access seems much better on the N52 in our cars - looks pretty simple. Personally I wouldn't bother replacing the thermostat unless your car is approaching 100k miles as I have never heard a single case of them failing. I think anyone around the 60k miles mark should consider changing the pump as a preventative maintenance measure though. They can be had for £250 or so now.

Don't forget the pump bleeding procedure afterwards:

1) Turn ignition on
2) Hold accelerator down for 10 secs
3) Pump kicks in and does a 12 minute self bleeding cycle while you go make a cup of tea.

If you have any bleed issues maybe give this more comprehensive procedure a go....
http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=488476
Click to expand...

Thanks for that - I have already bought all of the parts needed from BMpartsstore for £300 all in so not too bad.
The car is currently on 120,000 miles so figured a T-Stat may as well be changed whilst I'm in there.

Does anyone know of torque settings for the All bolts?
 
Well if the original pump has done 120k that says something about the reliability of them being a bit random as lots have gone at half that. Agree about changing your stat at that mileage defo.

Sorry - had a good hunt around for the torque on those bolts but no info. Have to use the old touchy feely method :?
 
Hi all.

Thinking of doing this myself while I am isolating!

It looks relatively straight forward from that link posted.

The videos I have seen online of the N52 engine in other BMWs, access is difficult which would prevent me doing it as a DIY job. But as ph001 mentions, it looks far more accessible on a Z4.

Does anyone have any personal experience of doing this at home? Any tips and advice?

Also my plan would be to change the pump, thermostat and expansion tank.

Thanks.

Saj
 
It's a very straightforward DIY. I did it with the ARB removed. Some photos here https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=112593&start=60
 
Regarding the expansion tank - can anyone confirm if I need the type with the extra outlet. eBay using realoem info appears to say yes. CA52638A-99EB-45A8-9A98-F4ED2EF37A9A.pngC8004229-AE2D-401A-ADA8-8B1FCE4FFBE5.jpeg
 
Yes, the N52 engine uses expansion tank outlets for the cabin heater circuit.

Is there a tank without small outlets? That would be very useful for me (heater removed).
 
Thanks again Liam.

I’m guessing there must be another version without that connector as why would they mention that this one has it??
 
Water pump arrived today.

Pierburg one, £250 from eBay.

2C4E01CD-04C3-4D58-B239-CDBB31C70533.jpeg


Also got coolant (ready mixed) and deionised water to flush system.


68A0D561-4CF6-4237-B10F-3608D1BF33F1.jpeg


Before I start. Does anyone have any key points or tips.

From all the threads I have read, I have gleaned the following info.

Turn pump by hand before fitting.
Blue plugs at bottom of radiator to drain system.
Flush with deionised water.
7.6 litres of coolant required - G48 version.
There is no block drain plug.
Electronic Bleed procedure.
Keep battery on charger when doing bleed procedure.

Thanks.

Saj
 
ph001 said:
Maybe also make sure your heater controls are set to hot (with ignition on)
Click to expand...

Thanks.

I’ve also just read to switch on low beam headlights to prevent the ignition from switching off automatically after a set time, to avoid interrupting the bleeding process. (This will be the reason to keep battery on charge).
 
saj77 said:
ph001 said:
Maybe also make sure your heater controls are set to hot (with ignition on)
Click to expand...

Thanks.

I’ve also just read to switch on low beam headlights to prevent the ignition from switching off automatically after a set time, to avoid interrupting the bleeding process. (This will be the reason to keep battery on charge).
Click to expand...

I’ve never heard of that to be honest. I have had ignition on for >1hr without headlights (on a charger of course).
 
I read it here...

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e85-z4-3.0si-roa/repair-manuals/11-engine/11-51-coolant-pump-with-drive/CNCeB76L
 
Another question.

I know that the water pump is fitted using single use bolts.

But what about the thermostat? Can you reuse those fixing bolts??
 
saj77 said:
Another question.

I know that the water pump is fitted using single use bolts.

But what about the thermostat? Can you reuse those fixing bolts??
Click to expand...

To answer my own question and for information - you re use the two thermostat fixing bolts as they are standard bolts not single use aluminium like the water pump ones.

Just fitted my pump and stat today :thumbsup:
 
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