i live in wisconsin and it just started getting nice out so i tried to put my rooftop down for the first time this year and the rooftop goes up slowly and stops with the window above the roof and the trunk open. im not getting a red light on the switch to put it up but when i press the the button to put up the roof up i get a red roof indicator on the dashboard i am able to put the top back down no problem. my buddy ran a scanner and came up with these codes below. anyone got any guess how much this might run me to get fixed at a bmw dealer? also i did notice quite a bit of water in the battery area like 2 inches and cleaned it out and checked to see if it was the hydralic pump that leaked but it has all of the fluid in there maybe this might be a related issue as to why the top wont go down? here are the codes below as well as some photos
Water in boot rooftop goin up slowly then stopping
- Thread starter mugen1220
- Start date
Looks like broken wire on the right side. Common as faults go.
My reader;
Right side has two pairs, on my car both were bad.
Twice i have had to go this area to fix breaks
I just spliced in wires from boot area up to switch/hall sensor.
No need to replace sensor.
Just get all wires replaced.
This next to right headrest.
You need to diy or find independent.
Next need to find the leak into boot.
Quite common is the rubber trim up by the the boot hinge.
Triangular shape with two screws.
The mastic underneath a bit iffy, so needs reseal.
But best is to dry out and lay sheets of kitchen towel all around and see where it gets wet first.
Perhaps first encircle the battery area.
My reader;
Right side has two pairs, on my car both were bad.
Twice i have had to go this area to fix breaks
I just spliced in wires from boot area up to switch/hall sensor.
No need to replace sensor.
Just get all wires replaced.
This next to right headrest.
You need to diy or find independent.
Next need to find the leak into boot.
Quite common is the rubber trim up by the the boot hinge.
Triangular shape with two screws.
The mastic underneath a bit iffy, so needs reseal.
But best is to dry out and lay sheets of kitchen towel all around and see where it gets wet first.
Perhaps first encircle the battery area.
update. so i took the battery out and drained all of the water out of the trunk and rescanned the codes. there is only on error now which i will post the screen shot of. the roof is still not working properly and i have provided a video link as well. any ideas of what could be wrong?
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F58eiDhVN4w[/youtube]
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F58eiDhVN4w[/youtube]
Attachments
update. so i took the battery out and drained all of the water out of the trunk and rescanned the codes. there is only on error now which i will post the screen shot of. the roof is still not working properly and i have provided a video link as well. any ideas of what could be wrong?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F58eiDhVN4w
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F58eiDhVN4w
This fault is the result of a corroded hydraulic pump after months of water in the trunk.
The temp sensor is a tiny item mounted directly into the e-motor of the pump. I assume, this motor still is full of water even you've dried up the area around it.
- Remove the black battery holder
- lift up the hydraulic pump
- remove the two long 7mm screws from the e-motor on the right
- pull the metal cap from the motor, water will run out of it
- clean and sorrowly dry up the internal parts, if the anchor still can be turned
- the temp sensor is a tiny 5mm glass item inside of the white thermal paste
- if it continues to send a wrong temp signal, the CTM will not open the roof
- you can measure it with an ohm meter on the two violet wires of the 4-pole plug: ~50k on room temperature.
In addition, the water stays longer in the body and will continue to run in when driving.
Place towels around the pump and check for new water every week.
The temp sensor is a tiny item mounted directly into the e-motor of the pump. I assume, this motor still is full of water even you've dried up the area around it.
- Remove the black battery holder
- lift up the hydraulic pump
- remove the two long 7mm screws from the e-motor on the right
- pull the metal cap from the motor, water will run out of it
- clean and sorrowly dry up the internal parts, if the anchor still can be turned
- the temp sensor is a tiny 5mm glass item inside of the white thermal paste
- if it continues to send a wrong temp signal, the CTM will not open the roof
- you can measure it with an ohm meter on the two violet wires of the 4-pole plug: ~50k on room temperature.
In addition, the water stays longer in the body and will continue to run in when driving.
Place towels around the pump and check for new water every week.
Absolutely yes.mugen1220 said:
There is a lasered production date code on top of these relays: 1223 means 23rd week of 2012
Read the following thread:
E89: Retractable Hardtop (roof) Maintenance (and additional) taskshttps://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=130932
update: so at first i removed just the housing of the e motor and emptied out the water but what i didnt do initially was take out the 2 20 torx screws that was connected to the hydraulic (not the brass ones) and it had a ton of water in there as well! i dried both out, switched the salmon color relays to new ones and voilà my roof started working again!! im so excited thank you to robbie for pointing out my exact problem! you saved me so much money by not taking my car into the dealership! also thank you to everyone who responded to this post! long live the z4 family!
Wow, perfect, congratulation!
The two T20 screws you mentioned are connecting the motor with the hydraulic unit, right?
The hydraulic circle is a closed system, where no water can get in. If you remove the motor from the hydraulic unit in the middle, oil will run out and you should renew this o-ring. What about the hydraulic level in the reservoir on the left? You can take ZHM from Febi to fill it up, if required.
What about the current fault codes?
The two T20 screws you mentioned are connecting the motor with the hydraulic unit, right?
The hydraulic circle is a closed system, where no water can get in. If you remove the motor from the hydraulic unit in the middle, oil will run out and you should renew this o-ring. What about the hydraulic level in the reservoir on the left? You can take ZHM from Febi to fill it up, if required.
What about the current fault codes?
Ohio
Dont forget to replace your trunk seals...
so i had water in the trunk again with the same roof problems i attemped to fix it by replicating what i did before and now the roof doesnt go down and i dont hear the motor running. i am getting a green light on the roof button but a red rooftop icon on the dash. the error code i am getting is 00a694. when i took the motor off the hydraulic unit some pins were beneath the o ring?. also would you happen to know what kind of oring it is so i can replace it.RobbiZ4 said: