Washed car - water in headlight - help

Each grommet covers a vent hole - these are there to provide venting and therefore reduce condensation. However, the grommet prevents water ingress and if missing, the vent hole could then be a point where water could get into the light.

In my experience, water either gets through the back cover (check seals, retaining clip and retaining bracket), grommets/vent tubes or headlight seals (if the lights have been de-gingered)


Tapatalking...
 
markeg said:
Each grommet covers a vent hole - these are there to provide venting and therefore reduce condensation. However, the grommet prevents water ingress and if missing, the vent hole could then be a point where water could get into the light.

In my experience, water either gets through the back cover (check seals, retaining clip and retaining bracket), grommets/vent tubes or headlight seals (if the lights have been de-gingered)


Tapatalking...

Thanks Mark, Clip and brackets were fine, not de gingered so its either the seal failing or grommets perhaps missing? - Always had slight misting, but since adding the LED sidelights the other day, its now ten times worse,as previously mentioned two days later after doing them took panel off again, dried out,turned seals over and re-seated them, was ok the following morning but Sat morning (day after) as bad as ever as per the pics, im guessing its the seal given its so much worse after taking cover off, but will look into the grommets

Can the grommets be viewed without bumper removal, I know its b****y tight in there!, and if any are missing can they be done from in wheel arch or does light and bumper need to come off?
 
It may be possible, but I've never tried it.... Its so tight in there.... but you may be able to feel around for the grommets. I would try the back cover and seals first. If you do need to replace the grommets, taking the bumper off is pretty easy - done it a few times now, and it takes 10 minutes.


Tapatalking...
 
If you have xenon act right away... the xenon ballast acts as the drain plug for the entire light. I managed to dry out a ballast but it failed a month or so later.
 
+1 on the xenons - see here:

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Whilst it is raised, water will collect in the plug and drain into the ballast.
 
I have had a real job sealing those rear doors, bought new ones and there was still a little bit of leaking, its a really bad design as I dont think the same amount of pressure is applied to the entire seal. My latest effort has been to get a piece of black polythene neatly cut it in the shape of the front top of the headlight, a small bead of silicone along the lip and the polythene hangs over the back of the light... all the water is directed over the top of the light now as usually pretty much all the water hitting your bonnet drops down the shut line and collects on the light runs down the back where it always hits the seal. No condensation or water in the light now but I do not consider this a permanent solution as it doesn't fix the original problem. When I have more time I will be looking into it further I might try again what BPM did which is to put silicone sealant on top of the rubbers (which didnt seem to help the first time I did that)
 
I've had this problem, even with a new seal, and found the best way is to fully dry the light, place a big bag of silica gel on the inside of the rear door to grab any last moisture over night, replace silica bag next day and tape in place. Seal the door with silicone from the outside.

I measured the humidity in the light at 30% when dry, 10% in the morning with the silica bag in it.

No real issues since. The silica is just for tiny bits of moisture and wont help if the thing is drowning!

Sent from my HTC One X
 
Just have to be careful that the light doesn't get wet enough to soak the silica bag IIRC - can it not cause corrosion if it gets really wet ? I am sure I read about this on here somewhere...
 
yg54sg said:
My latest effort has been to get a piece of black polythene neatly cut it in the shape of the front top of the headlight, a small bead of silicone along the lip and the polythene hangs over the back of the light... all the water is directed over the top of the light now as usually pretty much all the water hitting your bonnet drops down the shut line and collects on the light runs down the back where it always hits the seal.

Well had someone order me a new back today (I was too busy with work) from Sopers with the forum discount was only £10.06 with free Postage, so partway there now, still a concern from the last few posts that it may rear its ugly head further, was thinking of the fix (albeit short term) of putting plastic over top to direct water past it as you suggest, dont really want to silicone it closed,as any further attempt to open it e.g. bulb replacementwill kill the rubber seals (sets like concrete)
 
Bing said:
Just have to be careful that the light doesn't get wet enough to soak the silica bag IIRC - can it not cause corrosion if it gets really wet ? I am sure I read about this on here somewhere...


There is a thread on here somewhere about someone who had massive electrical damage from doing this, melted wires, holders etc,remember seeing it while doing one of the many searches to cure this problem, there was pics.... a right mess!!
not something I want to chance tbh!!
 
markeg said:
+1 on the xenons - see here:

Whilst it is raised, water will collect in the plug and drain into the ballast.

Given the amount of moisture in headlight atm, (see pic) am I best not using the car to minimise risk of the water ending up over the ballast? Sopers should have the part in Wed, then depends how long they take to send it out to me! i'm only free weekends to play with it in daylight due to work
 
Not sure about driving it - though you should be ok. However makes sure it is not raining if you are doing it outside, so that water doesn't get in the light while the housing is open. I know this because I undid all my hard work by taking the back off to replace a bulb having had the engine on when there was snow on the bonnet... It started melting quickly and undid all my hard work :headbang:
 
IMO, the only issue with driving it is if the headlights are on - you could short the ballast if its wet. If you need to replace the ballast, ebay has some usually around £70-£80 for a refurbished one, ~£100 for a new one. Only way of knowing for sure is to remove the bumper and headlight, as the ballast is attached to the underside, and open the ballast. You'll need some hex keys/bits to open it to see if its wet inside - it will need resealing with a thin bead of silicon afterwards before closing it up .
 
stehanson said:
Bing said:
Just have to be careful that the light doesn't get wet enough to soak the silica bag IIRC - can it not cause corrosion if it gets really wet ? I am sure I read about this on here somewhere...


There is a thread on here somewhere about someone who had massive electrical damage from doing this, melted wires, holders etc,remember seeing it while doing one of the many searches to cure this problem, there was pics.... a right mess!!
not something I want to chance tbh!!

Actually he used carbon chloride not silica gel, hence the massive issues.

http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=357070#p357070

Even Aston Martin headlights have silica gel packs in the access hatch these days. Very different to carbon chloride!!!

Sent from my HTC One X
 
Swiftly said:
pvr said:
Bing said:
T2FFN, I stand corrected, good post :thumbsup:

You are wrong rather a lot lately Bing? :poke:

Looks like someone is counting :lol:

I have - recently about 80:20 right, and of that 20 I reckon I have corrected at least 50% :D

And at least I am trying to help rather than keeping score PVR :poke: :D
 
Just clicked on T2FFN's link above, read down, and realised gookah has upped and left, taking all his toys (photos) with him. Weird. Must be because of one of the combative threads recently...

Sorry, hijack over :thumbsup:
 
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