WANTED: Genuine CSL BBS 19" alloys

[Beats]

Yep....

Have they been refurbed or are they genuinely "new"...?

The badges need pulling off and straightening up and the lettering is quite indistinct,like there is too much paint. There is also brake dust on the back pics...

They are also 8j....Which isnt CSL sizing...CSL front wheels are ET44 and 8.5j,whereas you have an ET47 and 8j....Chances are they are off a CS..

Here is a new CSL wheel..

Now I'm worried :? I hope you're wrong but suspect you know your stuff! Not worried about the signs of slight use, I know they tried to fit them. I'll chase up the original bill from Germany...

 

[Z4M-2006]

Its a bit weird really as he advertised them as CSL's but cleared shown the 8j,and also says it in his write up..

I have no doubt they are genuine,but i would have thought they are ZCP.

Either way,the 8j will go on although the ET is 42 on the 224 wheel i think.

 

[Z4M-2006]

It does look on this pic like there is some excess paint or coating on the rear of the spoke,just underneath the scrape/damage ??

Or is that where the coating has flaked off because of the damage ?

 

[srhutch]

It does look on this pic like there is some excess paint or coating on the rear of the spoke,just underneath the scrape/damage ??

Or is that where the coating has flaked off because of the damage ?

I think that's just dirt TBH.

 

[srhutch]

THere is a date stamp on picture 5, 01/07/13. So they are not that old and maybe a sign they have not be refurbished. :idunno:

I had mine done and I'm sure the bead blasted the entire wheel, so it could just be the badge is pissed.

 

[Beats]

THere is a date stamp on picture 5, 01/07/13. So they are not that old and maybe a sign they have not be refurbished. :idunno:

I had mine done and I'm sure the bead blasted the entire wheel, so it could just be the badge is pissed.

I haven't been able to read the thread in case I was going to feel sick in the pit of my stomach! Your note makes me feel a little better. Do you think they are correct size, that's what gave me a sleepless night?

 

[StevenH72]

They are the correct size in that they will fit. But in terms of whether they are a CSL wheel, I'm afraid they are not.

These are the wheels made for the E46 CS, rather than the CSL.

Still a genuine and expensive wheel mind.

 

[Z4M-2006]

As Steven says they will go on..

My concerns would be I had paid too much for them, because even though they are a lovely genuine wheel,they are not the more desirable 8.5j front wheel..

Also.. The narrower width and different ET may make the wheel look odd in the arch.. I think this would be a more "fit it and see" scenario.. But maybe a spacer could be used to get it closer to what the CSL wheel would give.

Also.. I'm not sure on different tyre fitments for 8j and 8.5j wheel.. Something that needs looking into..

 

[StevenH72]

As Steven says they will go on..

My concerns would be I had paid too much for them, because even though they are a lovely genuine wheel,they are not the more desirable 8.5j front wheel..

Also.. The narrower width and different ET may make the wheel look odd in the arch.. I think this would be a more "fit it and see" scenario.. But maybe a spacer could be used to get it closer to what the CSL wheel would give.

Also.. I'm not sure on different tyre fitments for 8j and 8.5j wheel.. Something that needs looking into..

Yeh, with the ET the 8.5j CSL wheel fills the arch very nicely, the 8J might need a bit of spacing to fill it.

£1100 for 4 'perfect' condition CS wheels doesn't seem too bad. CSLs in the same condition could be £1300 (on average)

 

[Z4M-2006]

Agreed...

Depends on your idea of perfect i guess...They ones the OP has bought arent IMHO,or at least they are far from the "brand new" condition as advertised.

I think if i was around £1300 for wheels,then i would just be buying new ones for the extra £80 a wheel or so..

Just my opinion of course.

 

[Beedub]

ok right.....In my near decade of z4m ownership I've had a good few wheel setups, including 2 sets of CSLs.

ok so these are indeed CS wheels but they are definitely genuine, they are still flow formed which means they are pretty light for their size and very strong! They have deinfitely been refurbed, you can see the paint excess on the lettering, mine were exactly the same after i had mine re-finished, a fresh set this lettering is much clearer and more uniform.

now heres the subjective bit, OP, don't be TOO dishearten by the CS front rim , as even the normal "CSL" front is a less than ideal fitment on the z4m, the offset isn't ideal (et44) the extra width of the CSL rim goes inwards towards the strut, so whether you use the CSL, or the CS wheel to get it to look good imo you need a 10mm spacer. Tyre sizing will be the same between the 2 if you wish, but personally i think you've paid over the odds for these, i sold a VERY good set of genuine CSLs in gunmetal for 1250 quid with 5mm+ on ps2 tyres, i struggled to sell them at the advertised 1400, it took a long time to sell them, far longer than i expected, maybe that was the colour???

The Rear works pretty nicely and really looks great as it fills the arch nicely without looking likes its protruding.

for a rule of thumb on the z4m on aim for 35 front offset and 25rear for a nice flush, full looking arch without the risk of rubbing, we won't get into the aggressive setups thats some of us run.

 

[Z4M-2006]

Good info....

So..... With the CS wheel only being 8" and the offset being ET47,wont the wheel sit even further into the strut ?

 

[Beedub]

Good info....

So..... With the CS wheel only being 8" and the offset being ET47,wont the wheel sit even further into the strut ?

i believe they are either ET42 or ET44 still, the ET rating isn't effected by the overall rim width, just what bmw would have spec'd at the time.

for example my current wheels are 8.5 et 28 ( way way way to aggressive for the z4m without very aggressive track setup) and 9.5 ET 23 ( aggressive but still within what the rear can swallow). I believe the stock wheel had an ET of 42, the lower that ET rating the closer the wheel is place to the fender line via more material on the centre hub pad ( hence why spacers have the same effect) the higher the ET has the opposite effect, larger rim width ( 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10) tends put most of that width on the inside so closer to the strut, but some of it will additionally extend outwards,

As the ET gets lower you start needing track biased alignments to fit it all in, for example a wheel thats too wide or too low ET will require -tv camber to "tuck" the wheel into the fender space, great for track driving / fast driving on a toy, not good for your Daily driver.

 

[Z4M-2006]

The ET for the ZCP front wheel is 47...

You can see it on the pics....

 

[Beedub]

The ET for the ZCP front wheel is 47...

You can see it on the pics....

so it will appear sunken as does the CSL.... but this will be worse to the point where it will look pretty pants think of the stock wheel but further in by like another 5mm, the CSL front can get away with no spacer but definitely has a sunken look. the CSL wheels needs a 10mm spacer and the CS will need a 12mm for that really nice full arch look without being over the top. Hell I'm not sure but their may be a clearance issue with the CS wheel and the stock suspension strut, that may be close and will need checking, with tyre deflection under spirited driving you ideally want 5mm of wheel/tyre to strut clearance.

 

[Z4M-2006]

That's what I was thinkin too..

 

[Darren Slone]

I've got 12mm spacers on the front of mine ET44 iirc, sit flush and don't rub on full lock, strangely enough when I loaned them to OG they did rub on full lock, work that one out :?

 

[Beedub]

I've got 12mm spacers on the front of mine ET44 iirc, sit flush and don't rub on full lock, strangely enough when I loaned them to OG they did rub on full lock, work that one out :?

perfect.

 

[Beats]

As Steven says they will go on..

My concerns would be I had paid too much for them, because even though they are a lovely genuine wheel,they are not the more desirable 8.5j front wheel..

Also.. The narrower width and different ET may make the wheel look odd in the arch.. I think this would be a more "fit it and see" scenario.. But maybe a spacer could be used to get it closer to what the CSL wheel would give.

Also.. I'm not sure on different tyre fitments for 8j and 8.5j wheel.. Something that needs looking into..

Helpful, I think I can work with this, thanks...

Having had our family Golden Retriever put to sleep yesterday, it seems less important

 

[FR08MEE]

ok right.....In my near decade of z4m ownership I've had a good few wheel setups, including 2 sets of CSLs.

ok so these are indeed CS wheels but they are definitely genuine, they are still flow formed which means they are pretty light for their size and very strong! They have deinfitely been refurbed, you can see the paint excess on the lettering, mine were exactly the same after i had mine re-finished, a fresh set this lettering is much clearer and more uniform.

now heres the subjective bit, OP, don't be TOO dishearten by the CS front rim , as even the normal "CSL" front is a less than ideal fitment on the z4m, the offset isn't ideal (et44) the extra width of the CSL rim goes inwards towards the strut, so whether you use the CSL, or the CS wheel to get it to look good imo you need a 10mm spacer. Tyre sizing will be the same between the 2 if you wish, but personally i think you've paid over the odds for these, i sold a VERY good set of genuine CSLs in gunmetal for 1250 quid with 5mm+ on ps2 tyres, i struggled to sell them at the advertised 1400, it took a long time to sell them, far longer than i expected, maybe that was the colour???

The Rear works pretty nicely and really looks great as it fills the arch nicely without looking likes its protruding.

for a rule of thumb on the z4m on aim for 35 front offset and 25rear for a nice flush, full looking arch without the risk of rubbing, we won't get into the aggressive setups thats some of us run.

Agreed with this.

I have a set of BBS CH wheels and I am running ET35 fronts and ET20 10j rears with no issues and the wheels are flush I think anything beyond this and you'd need to start looking at changing the suspension, etc.

I think I could even get away with lowering without any rubbing too