Vanos

Sure a while back I changed the vamps seals for the new viton seals which should last the life of the car going forward, think there is a good how to guide somewhere on here, take your time and it’s a couple of hours job, need to remove one of the engine mounts to lift the engine slightly to clear getting the vanos out of the slam panel. From there It’s pretty straightforward but you need to be carful not to score any of the pistons.
 
Wookster78 said:
Sure a while back I changed the vamps seals for the new viton seals which should last the life of the car going forward, think there is a good how to guide somewhere on here, take your time and it’s a couple of hours job, need to remove one of the engine mounts to lift the engine slightly to clear getting the vanos out of the slam panel. From there It’s pretty straightforward but you need to be carful not to score any of the pistons.

Those are encouraging words, the parts are reasonably priced and it would be something I would surely consider doing sometime in the future. If it is not too difficult a job.

One question, you say you loosened an engine mount to “lift the engine slightly “ did you do that by jacking up the engine from below or did you use an engine hoist from above ?
 
Do note that not everyone needs to go the engine mount method - I personally did not and was able to just flex the frame enough to rotate the vanos out. I would recommend to be prepared for it (know what needs to be done), but attempt it without first. Less parts you have to undo the better right?

I wrote about the prying part briefly in my thread: https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=108976&start=75 You're really just trying to get 2-3mm space to rotate the vanos out.

For the rest of the procedure, refer to the beisian page: http://www.beisansystems.com/procedures/vanos_procedure.htm
 
I did try to get the vanos out without jacking the engine but simply not enough room for me and jacking the engine took less time than the time it took try to wiggle it out. I only used a trolley jack and just lifted the engine enough to clear, probably about an inch in total. You certainly don’t need an engine hoist, just take you time over it, guess now is an idea time with the lockdown around the country.
 
I've been meaning to post this tip since last year when a buddy of mine helped me do mine. It was his idea to do this and I did the levering while he got the vanos in and out so I won't take credit for his idea just the labor to help him. The bolts circled if you take those two out and of course have the plastic cover over the radiator off place a board such as shown in that spot, good idea to reinforce behind with another piece of wood so you don't bend the lip that you pry on as you lever towards front of the car but you'll be able to see where to tuck the wood in to have someone lever forward as you either pull the vanos out or put it back with no need to raise the motor to get room. This way gives you just enough room to wiggle the vanos out, it doesn't give you more room than you need it's just enough room to angle the vanos up and out.



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This is very interesting. I'm handy enough to refurb the vanos unit, but jacking the engine has always put me off.
My car is a 2003 with 83k, is it a certainty that a vanos refurb is required? Hard to tell if im missing midrange torque when ive no bench mark.
(Sorry for the thread hijack)
 
Piper1 said:
I've been meaning to post this tip...

Hey that's a good one! I didn't think to thread something through the hole and flex it. That seems better than what I had done leaning on the end of the water pump after padding over it with some foam.

:thumbsup:
 
tomrdy said:
Piper1 said:
I've been meaning to post this tip...

Hey that's a good one! I didn't think to thread something through the hole and flex it. That seems better than what I had done leaning on the end of the water pump after padding over it with some foam.

:thumbsup:

Honestly we were going to do your write up way first then my buddy just had the idea and wanted to try it lol
 
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