Vanos Seals - How to check to see if space to remove

Zikim

Active member
I want to change the Vanos Seals this weekend and would like to know from those who have done this if there is anyway to tell prior to starting the work, if the Vanos unit can be removed without lifting or dropping the engine? Is there a measurement between the Vanos unit and the bulkhead that can be checked?

What is the best way if the Vanos unit does foul, is it lifting the engine or lowering it? And what is the best way to do either of these?
 
Did you see my thread on this?

In summary, it very much is down to luck. Until you try it, there's no way of knowing if it can be removed easily.

The length of the protruding studs (the longer two studs) will determine if you can slide it off or not, they are almost impossible to see clearly but on mine the one on the bottom right corner had almost no thread exposed when the nut was tightened (meaning it was screwed in a bit further). Even then, I had to lever a bit against the bulkhead.

By the time you get to this point you are already committed, so don't start until you have all of the tools (angled pliers, etc.) and you know the 'alternative method' regarding moving the engine up/down.
 
Thanks Stratts for the reply. Yes I did read your thread on this and it has been very helpful in preparing to undertake the job.

I just wanted to know in advance if there is anyway to tell by measurements to the bulkhead if it will come off without raising or lowering the engine. How many people who have attempted this job have done it without raising/lowering the engine and if not which is the better method - to raise or lower?

Thanks for the pointer Stratts on the protruding studs especially bottom right corner, which I will have a look at tonight.
 
I had to raise mine about 1 1/2 inches, took off the R/H mount nut, mines a 2.2L

P.s. what a difference it's made to the power, like a different car :D
 
Stratts said:
so don't start until you have all of the tools (angled pliers, etc.)

Totally agree.

Mine vanos came off easily, did not lift/lower engine or pry anything. I guess I was lucky
 
If you have to lift the engine a little bit it really is a simple quick job. I have replaced the vanos seals and written this up but also covered lifting the engine in a post about replacing the water pump. If you have a small scissors jack you can use this under the engine mount bracket. See my water pump post here, http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=72054&p=1056898#p1056898
 
Midhurstman said:
If you have to lift the engine a little bit it really is a simple quick job. I have replaced the vanos seals and written this up but also covered lifting the engine in a post about replacing the water pump. If you have a small scissors jack you can use this under the engine mount bracket. See my water pump post here, http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=72054&p=1056898#p1056898
Thanks for this advice on lifting the engine, I have a small scissor jack so this is doable if need be. Is yours a 3.0i engine?
 
Zikim said:
Midhurstman said:
If you have to lift the engine a little bit it really is a simple quick job. I have replaced the vanos seals and written this up but also covered lifting the engine in a post about replacing the water pump. If you have a small scissors jack you can use this under the engine mount bracket. See my water pump post here, http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=72054&p=1056898#p1056898

Thanks for this advice on lifting the engine, I have a small scissor jack so this is doable if need be. Is yours a 3.0i engine?


Yes, Dec 2003 3.0i Se auto (with retro fitted paddle shift). Good luck, replacing the vanos seals seems daunting at first but is actually enjoyable and very rewarding.
 
AnttiO said:
I will know later.. my vanos job is now in this state:

medium.jpg
How did you get on, where you able to remove the Vanos without any problems?

Starting mine tomorrow, hopefully complete in a day :!:
 
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