Vanos/marathon underway

patriot66 said:
enuff_zed said:
patriot66 said:
There is no gearbox cooling/intercooler on the SMG gearbox. It is the same 6 speed ZF GS6-37BZ unit fitted to ALL 3.0i, 3.0si and Z4M models and doesn't require any additional cooling. When I replaced my split original expansion tank, part number 7514390 back in Aug'17 it was the same tank and fittings etc as the 'normal' manual :thumbsup: 20170819_134619_Richtone(HDR).jpg20170819_134714_Richtone(HDR).jpg20170819_134904_Richtone(HDR).jpg20170819_134642_Richtone(HDR).jpg
In the third photo down, on the auto 2.5i there is a cylindrical thermostat assembly that sits in the bigger hole. I assume yours did not have that? In which case it may well only be applicable to the standard autos?
Correct, no thermostat in the larger hole. It would serve no purpose on a manual box'd Z4 :thumbsup:
'tis what I thought.
Wanted to be 100% clear in order to aid future members doing the expansion tank swap.
If you have an auto and don't buy a new thermostat, it seems very likely the old one will leap out in several pieces and, like me, you'll have to sit and wait for postie to bring a new one.
 
bigwinn said:
I am embarrassed to admit- clearly I know the difference between manual and auto boxes- but how does the SMG differ?
An SMG box is identical to a manual box, but instead of you pressing the clutch pedal to disengage the clutch, it is done for you by electro-hydraulically operated servos and a computer. (Like a butler for your clutch foot :D )
 
Zulu4 said:
bigwinn said:
I am embarrassed to admit- clearly I know the difference between manual and auto boxes- but how does the SMG differ?
An SMG box is identical to a manual box, but instead of you pressing the clutch pedal to disengage the clutch, it is done for you by electro-hydraulically operated servos and a computer. (Like a butler for your clutch foot :D )

Ahhh

Makes sense

That’s cool
 
patriot66 said:
There is no gearbox cooling/intercooler on the SMG gearbox. It is the same 6 speed ZF GS6-37BZ unit fitted to ALL 3.0i, 3.0si and Z4M models and doesn't require any additional cooling.

That's great! I'll get one on the shopping list! Thank you :thumbsup:
 
kis said:
patriot66 said:
There is no gearbox cooling/intercooler on the SMG gearbox. It is the same 6 speed ZF GS6-37BZ unit fitted to ALL 3.0i, 3.0si and Z4M models and doesn't require any additional cooling.



That's great! I'll get one on the shopping list! Thank you :thumbsup:

£9 from fleabay bud
 
bigwinn said:
kis said:
patriot66 said:
There is no gearbox cooling/intercooler on the SMG gearbox. It is the same 6 speed ZF GS6-37BZ unit fitted to ALL 3.0i, 3.0si and Z4M models and doesn't require any additional cooling.



That's great! I'll get one on the shopping list! Thank you :thumbsup:

£9 from fleabay bud
I thought we established he doesn't need one for the SMG box?
 
bigwinn said:
kis said:
patriot66 said:
There is no gearbox cooling/intercooler on the SMG gearbox. It is the same 6 speed ZF GS6-37BZ unit fitted to ALL 3.0i, 3.0si and Z4M models and doesn't require any additional cooling.



That's great! I'll get one on the shopping list! Thank you :thumbsup:

£9 from fleabay bud

I was thinking to get an OEM one. The one I have at present is aftermarket and the float for the coolant dipstick doesn't work (I'm guessing it wasn't made of good material and has become saturated in coolant and so doesn't float anymore). So I have to manually pull the stick up and lower it till its just submerged so I can read the level. Its a right PITA! Had a quick ebay... what do we think of this one? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173985808400 what draws me in, is that I get 5 year warranty if the dipstick float fails again. Plus it's got a level sensor included. TIA
 
enuff_zed said:
I thought we established he doesn't need one for the SMG box?

Ahh I think I didn't explain properly I'm doing a bit of a "marathon" as well I guess. So I'll be replacing a few bits including the expansion tank, so I ment I'll get an expansion tank added to my shopping list. And I wanted to know if I had to factor for the oil thingy.

As above, my expansion tank functions fine I guess, so there's no real need but if I'm having a tinker anyway, figure I should just replace the whole thing while flushing the system.
 
kis said:
enuff_zed said:
I thought we established he doesn't need one for the SMG box?

Ahh I think I didn't explain properly I'm doing a bit of a "marathon" as well I guess. So I'll be replacing a few bits including the expansion tank, so I ment I'll get an expansion tank added to my shopping list. And I wanted to know if I had to factor for the oil thingy.

As above, my expansion tank functions fine I guess, so there's no real need but if I'm having a tinker anyway, figure I should just replace the whole thing while flushing the system.

Sorry bud I thought thermostat too!

As for expansion tanks I've bought febi bilsten both times I've changed mine from Autodoc (41% off today means under £30!)

Stuart
 
bigwinn said:
kis said:
enuff_zed said:
I thought we established he doesn't need one for the SMG box?

Ahh I think I didn't explain properly I'm doing a bit of a "marathon" as well I guess. So I'll be replacing a few bits including the expansion tank, so I ment I'll get an expansion tank added to my shopping list. And I wanted to know if I had to factor for the oil thingy.

As above, my expansion tank functions fine I guess, so there's no real need but if I'm having a tinker anyway, figure I should just replace the whole thing while flushing the system.

Sorry bud I thought thermostat too!

As for expansion tanks I've bought febi bilsten both times I've changed mine from Autodoc (41% off today means under £30!)

Stuart
I got Hella, purely because it came with the low level sensor fitted, which some others don't.
 
I fitted a Meyle expansion tank (2 year warranty) back in August '17. No issues at all and still going strong :thumbsup:
 
Guys need some help/guidance; at the point of removing the unit from the engine. All the guides say tilt forward and pull off but I can’t get mine to clear the lower rods before I run out of space with the front cross member. Seems I’m short by only a few mil but no matter what I do I can’t get it off the rods and out. Tried loosening the cross member but it won’t budge. Is there another trick to getting it done?
 
Yes bud- got someone who can put a lever down in front of the engine- pressure on the front of the water pump towards the back of the car will give you the mm needed
 
parabolica said:
Guys need some help/guidance; at the point of removing the unit from the engine. All the guides say tilt forward and pull off but I can’t get mine to clear the lower rods before I run out of space with the front cross member. Seems I’m short by only a few mil but no matter what I do I can’t get it off the rods and out. Tried loosening the cross member but it won’t budge. Is there another trick to getting it done?
Undo the bottom nut on the RH engine mount.
Put a jack under the front of the engine (undertray off obviously) and use a block of wood to spread the load on the jack.
You can then move the engine up and down an inch or two to clear everything.
Not only did this solve the problem for me, but it also meant that when it came to reassembling, and trying to get those little covers back in over the torx screws, I was able to move it a bit for better access.
 
enuff_zed said:
parabolica said:
Guys need some help/guidance; at the point of removing the unit from the engine. All the guides say tilt forward and pull off but I can’t get mine to clear the lower rods before I run out of space with the front cross member. Seems I’m short by only a few mil but no matter what I do I can’t get it off the rods and out. Tried loosening the cross member but it won’t budge. Is there another trick to getting it done?
Undo the bottom nut on the RH engine mount.
Put a jack under the front of the engine (undertray off obviously) and use a block of wood to spread the load on the jack.
You can then move the engine up and down an inch or two to clear everything.
Not only did this solve the problem for me, but it also meant that when it came to reassembling, and trying to get those little covers back in over the torx screws, I was able to move it a bit for better access.

Or that +1!!
 
Thanks gents - found the ‘Jack up the engine’ recommendation on another thread - that did the trick! Vanos repaired; refitting tomorrow.
 
parabolica said:
Thanks gents - found the ‘Jack up the engine’ recommendation on another thread - that did the trick! Vanos repaired; refitting tomorrow.

Well done!!

That trick deffo needs to be on the how too!
 
One more question though; my kit came with the needle bearings and spacer rings, but the x8r instructions don’t even mention these anywhere. Looks like they belong inside the pistons but looks like you need a specialist tool to get the piston apart? Anyone gone to this level on their vanos? Can the bearings be swapped out using normal tools?
 
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