Valve cover bolt wont budge - E86

1536Z4

1536Z4

Senior member
 North Shropshire
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Well as it says I have a valve cover bolt that wont budge . All the others came undone no problem but not this one . It started ok and then just wouldnt go any further . I tried tightening again and then loosening but no go so then I got the bolt remover socket out which just gouged the bolt as you can see . I was going to cut a slot in it and try to remove that way but before I do I thought best to take a step back and ask the knowledgable forum first . I have tried plus gas but no go . Would appreciate any advice . Thanks .
 

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If you are going to replace the VC gasket anyway then I would get a propane torch or better yet, MAP torch and heat up that small area of the head where the threads are. Heat it up well then quench it with WD40 or something similar, the spray should sizzle.
Do that at least 2x then try and tighten it back down, do another heat/cool cycle before you start trying to remove it again.
The real problem with this kind of situation is that you really only have one chance to get it right before the head of the bolt is destroyed or snaps off entirely.

Oh, is that VC plastic? If so you'll have to cut the head of that bolt off with Dremel, remove the rest of the bolts, remove the VC then do the above procedure with a set of Visegrips on the stud of the bolt.
 
grannyknot said:
Oh, is that VC plastic? If so you'll have to cut the head of that bolt off with Dremel, remove the rest of the bolts, remove the VC then do the above procedure with a set of Visegrips on the stud of the bolt.
Click to expand...

Hi grannynot , that was my next step if I cant get it to undo . The only other method I have read about is drilling a small hole and banging a square bit like an allen key into the hole and then using that to try and release it but as you say one chance as the bolts/screws are so soft . Typical that all the others were no problem :x . Thanks :thumbsup:
 
I've always wanted to get one of these induction nut/stud remover, they suppose to be terrific, it might be worth looking to see if a shop around you will rent theirs to you. They are starting to get more popular.
https://www.ubuy.com.tr/en/product/6Z8MPZFU-magnetic-induction-heater-tool-kit-magnetic-heater-bolt-remover-tool-induction-heating-bolt-remover
 
grannyknot said:
They are starting to get more popular.
Click to expand...

Yes I have seen them being used on You tube . Well I have just had another go with a different type of bolt remover and it just took the head of the bolt so at least I can get the valve cover of now :roll: :) and then try and remove whats left of the bolt .
 
You might be able to file whats left of the bolt shaft square and then you can get a heavy duty spanner on it.
 
Mike6 said:
file whats left of the bolt shaft square
Click to expand...

Yes I will try that just not much diameter to work with. I am going to do the bits that I was going to do first and then "attack" the bolt issue last . I can only work on it for small amounts of time so jobs take longer than normal .

Thanks :thumbsup:
 
I understand that the bolt has since broken at the head but I think this is worth mentioning. Forgive me if I misunderstand but it sounds like you should not have used a an extractor socket. These should only be used if the head of the fastener is stripped and a standard tool will no longer grip the fastener as designed. Extractors damage the head and often only make things worse. In your situation it sounds like the bolt would have snapped either way unfortunately.

Hopefully you have enough bolt sticking out to get a good hold of it with vice grips.
 
I’d Dremel a deep notch in the head, then breakout your biggest screwdriver, just in case.
 
I'd also do repeated applications of the plus gas. With the valve cover out of the way it's likely easier to direct it right into the threads. Let it soak for multiple days.
 
jetrep said:
These should only be used if the head of the fastener is stripped
Click to expand...
Hi jetrep . Yes the head had stripped trying to remove the screw/bolt which is why I used the extractor .

I have also tried vice grips or mole grips as we call them over here but I have not had any luck . I will have another attempt with them . :thumbsup:
 
inkey$ said:
I’d Dremel a deep notch in the head
Click to expand...

Hi inkey . The head is no longer on the bolt or did you mean whats left ? The bolt or screw shank is not that big so after putting a notch in it that would accept a screwdriver there will not be much meat left on the bone so am not sure that would work in this situation but will give it a try if all else fails . Thanks :thumbsup:
 
jetrep said:
Let it soak for multiple days.
Click to expand...

Yes have been applying daily whilst doing the other maintenance jobs before I try and remove again .Thanks :thumbsup:
 
Tack weld an old Allen key or some steel bar with something to grip on to it, the thermal shock may help, so would some gentle vertical hammer blows before you unscrew. Also protect your exposed mechanical parts from debris. Good luck.
 
I was just going to suggest as Nick has - if you can part thread a nut to the remaining stud, then tack weld it. Lots of heating, spraying, and tapping the end with a small hammer when hot and cold.

I've done this in the past with bike exhaust studs.

If you end up drilling it out try and use a 90 degree bit holder and come in from underneath - that way the swarf goes away from the engine :)
 
Just a small tip, WD40 is NOT a penetrating oil but a reasonably poor lubricant and whatever else it claims to be.
Make your own penetrating oil using 50/50 ATF / Acetone, even thinning down engine oil with diesel works but I prefer the first one. :thumbsup:
 
Nick W said:
Tack weld an old Allen key
Click to expand...

Did try something similiar but with an allen key banged into a hole drilled into the head before it came off and some superglue . Left it overnight and turned it next day but it just broke off . I don`t have a welder but a neighbour does so may ended up trying that . Thanks :thumbsup:
 
Nick W said:
Make your own penetrating oil using 50/50 ATF / Acetone, even thinning down engine oil with diesel works but I prefer the first one.
Click to expand...

I`m actually using Plusgas but will bear it in mind :thumbsup:
 
DevonPaul said:
if you can part thread a nut to the remaining stud, then tack weld it. Lots of heating, spraying, and tapping the end with a small hammer when hot and cold.

I've done this in the past with bike exhaust studs.

If you end up drilling it out try and use a 90 degree bit holder and come in from underneath - that way the swarf goes away from the engine
Click to expand...

All good advice . Thank you :thumbsup:
 
I'm not sure welding is the answer as those bolts on the N52 engine are aluminium IIRC.

Useless trivia - WD40 got it's name from being "Water Displacement, 40th attempt"!
 
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