Vacuum drain hole water/debris out from top?

StudioWizard

Member
 Los Angeles, CA, USA
Has anybody tried vacuuming out water and debris that might clogging the drain holes by inserting a tube in from the top? I was able to poke around with an old conductor's stick (I'm a musician) on the right side and free a bunch of water. On the left side, where the motor is, it's not possible because the motor blocks the drain hole, I believe. Instead, I was thinking of trying to vacuum it out with a high powered wet/dry shop vac.

Has anyone tried this with any results?

Eventually, I will probably relocate the motor, but I'm short on time and everything is working great for now. I live in Southern California and it doesn't rain often, but when it does..... We had a big rain a few days ago and the drain containers definitely held water, especially the right (passenger for me) side.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!
 
You could just remove the rubber bungs from under the wheel arch. If memory serves, theres an access hatch at the front side of the arch liner.

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Big Andra said:
You could just remove the rubber bungs from under the wheel arch. If memory serves, theres an access hatch at the front side of the arch liner.

True, but that requires jacking the car up and removing the rear wheels to gain access. I'm looking for the lazy man's quick fix!! haha
 
What it boils down to is I really need to retrofit a garage with a nice little lift. :D There are so many other things I could then do to the car on my own. Spend a dime to save a nickel, but have fun doing it basically. haha
 
I have relocated the roof motor and my maintenance routine includes vacuuming the wells during the winter hibernation. Includes taking a peek with a boroscope (cheap ebay one connected to an ipad) or just a flashlight, the a silicone tune attached to the vacuum. The zed is stored in dry conditions so any debris comes out easily. When the wheels are off (brake fluid change) I usually clean the bunges as well.

A couple of times also took a look inside the drain tubes as well with the boroscope but they tend to be clean. The tubes consist of two equally long parts, with a connection halfway down. So in theory, poking with a boroscope could separate them and you’d be in trouble.
 

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That's brilliant!! Thanks for showing those pictures and for the words of caution. I think it's a no-brainer to relocate the roof motor. I'll have to find time to do it, but it'll be worth it.
 
It's not an easy job to relocate the motor as you need to be double jointed and even then you need to feel the cable ties and be able to cut them all whilst laying on your back inside the boot space. There are people on here who are experts at doing this .
If I were you I would find an expert and ask them for help.
 
Thanks, Mike.

I've been studying it for quite some time and have watched numerous videos, read several threads and have removed/added parts in the boot many a time including the supplemental OEM elastic bands that keep the top from slamming down. I know if I can do THAT, I can relocate the motor.

Fortunately, there's no rush to do so since I live in a very dry region (Los Angeles) and my top is working perfectly presently.
 
DMike said:
I have relocated the roof motor and my maintenance routine includes

So, your pictures of the left one are taken after you've relocated the motor, right?

Does the motor in the original position block the hole?

I haven't been able to reach the drain hole so far. I tried using a hanger with a bend at the end so I can rotate it until I find the hole (so many jokes, so little time), but no luck so far.
 
StudioWizard said:
True, but that requires jacking the car up and removing the rear wheels to gain access. I'm looking for the lazy man's quick fix!! haha
I am pretty sure I removed my bungs without lifting the car. You can't see what you're doing but with a flexible hose it might be possible to get an attachment on them. Probably not as effective as just putting some wire up and rinsing.
 
Thing is, the drain hole is only about 5 mm across. So even if the pipes are clear a heavy deluge will not escape quickly enough. The water level will rise up and flood into the roof motor casing. Then it will all drain away and you will look in there and feel smug that everything is dry……. Oh, except for the big plastic flask full of water surrounding your roof motor.
 
enuff_zed said:
Oh, except for the big plastic flask full of water surrounding your roof motor.

Yeah, I'm convinced relocating that motor is the best thing to do. I have already had that smug feeling, but with a nagging little voice saying I'm oh so wrong. haha

I'll get it relocated.....
 
Scooba_Steve said:
I am pretty sure I removed my bungs without lifting the car.

I could just drive the car up onto a curb, then climb under.... haha

OR, I could drop by my mechanic's place... he'd do it for me for nothing since I've basically been paying his mortgage for a while now. haha
 
StudioWizard said:
I could just drive the car up onto a curb, then climb under.... haha

OR, I could drop by my mechanic's place... he'd do it for me for nothing since I've basically been paying his mortgage for a while now. haha
Great, just sayin' - I don't think you need to go to the trouble. Easy to check.
 
Has anyone ever tried to drill out the holes slightly to aid drainage?
Anyone removed the nipples that bung up?
Great pictures Mike, just grabbing my torch!
 
Best pull the rubber bung valves off the bottom of the drain tubes and use a thin wire to push up the drain to clear it, you can see the bungs from under the car looking up into the sill or get a better view of them with the wheel arch liner taken out. Don't put the bungs back on.
No matter where you live in the world relocation to the boot is the best way forward, it will aid access for maintenance in the future.
Not really an option to enlarge the drain holes its a rubber pipe that runs to the bottom, just plugged on top and bottom metal pipe studs.
Still check for blockages even if you relocate the motor to the boot, the cavity can still fill and overflow dripping down on the left side of the car B post and killing the airbag module that lives at the base of the B post.
 
Do those bungs actually prevent critters from climbing in? And if they did climb in, so what?

I agree that relocating is the best way forward and regular cleaning of the drain holes is a must.

I've also read somewhere that drilling a hole in the rubber jack mount position under the car is useful to allow any water to drain that has gotten into the frame rails. I'll plan to check that out as I noticed when I wiggled it after the last rain storm, some moisture was present. Has anyone drilled a hole there? If so, what size hole?
 
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