Vacuum Control, DISA, ICV and Vanos

[Andrew J]

So I had another go at the inlet duct replacement today. I hadn't got the sound generator pipe in fully which must have been causing the air leak still. Got it all buttoned back up and cleared the codes (so I thought). My code reader shows logged codes and pending codes (my app says this is an unverified code?). There's no logged faults but there is still a pending code, P0102. The car will still not heel and toe. Do I need to take it for a run to clear the pending codes aswell? I'm hoping not as the car is now smoking from the exhaust side. I looked underneath and couldn't see any oil on the ground so not sure where this smoke is coming from. It seems I haven't bought a good one after all .

Possibly a top cover gasket leak. They let oil onto the manifold that then burns off. Easy fix.

When the engine is cold run your fingers along the top cover gasket feeling for oil, especially at the rear corner on the drivers side

Thanks for this chaps. I'll have a look tomorrow if I get chance. Scared the hell out of me when I saw smoke rising up from behind the bonnet after I started it up to check the codes. Hopefully I can get it road worthy soon and enjoy it.

 

[Andrew J]

So I checked the rocker cover gasket and there's definitely oil leaking out of the drivers side of the engine at the rear. Looks like it'll need one of those.

I'm still getting the P0102 code and I checked the MAF flow on my app and it wasn't registering a flow at all. I tried wriggling the wire which didn't change the signal so I'm concluding that something is wrong with the MAF/wiring too.

There's also very little oil in the engine itself so I'm going to have to service it too. It never rains but it pours!

 

[enuff_zed]

So I checked the rocker cover gasket and there's definitely oil leaking out of the drivers side of the engine at the rear. Looks like it'll need one of those.

I'm still getting the P0102 code and I checked the MAF flow on my app and it wasn't registering a flow at all. I tried wriggling the wire which didn't change the signal so I'm concluding that something is wrong with the MAF/wiring too.

There's also very little oil in the engine itself so I'm going to have to service it too. It never rains but it pours!

Get a good gasket set. I use Elring.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314236176008
Make sure you block the oilways before trying to remove any gasket left stuck on the head. It becomes very brittle and will possibly break into myriad tiny pieces.

If you disconnect the MAF the DME runs a default map. Try that just in case it sorts the problem and proves a duff MAF.

Oil change is the simplest thing. The sump drain is near the back of the block so you can happily put the front end up on ramps to get better access. Use a decent oil filter as cheapo ones can collapse and cause weird noises.
I normally use Mann.

 

[Andrew J]

So I checked the rocker cover gasket and there's definitely oil leaking out of the drivers side of the engine at the rear. Looks like it'll need one of those.

I'm still getting the P0102 code and I checked the MAF flow on my app and it wasn't registering a flow at all. I tried wriggling the wire which didn't change the signal so I'm concluding that something is wrong with the MAF/wiring too.

There's also very little oil in the engine itself so I'm going to have to service it too. It never rains but it pours!

Get a good gasket set. I use Elring.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314236176008
Make sure you block the oilways before trying to remove any gasket left stuck on the head. It becomes very brittle and will possibly break into myriad tiny pieces.

If you disconnect the MAF the DME runs a default map. Try that just in case it sorts the problem and proves a duff MAF.

Oil change is the simplest thing. The sump drain is near the back of the block so you can happily put the front end up on ramps to get better access. Use a decent oil filter as cheapo ones can collapse and cause weird noises.
I normally use Mann.

I did unplug the MAF to change the inlet duct but I didn't run the car with it disconnected. I'm probably being a bit dim here but if I run the car without the MAF connected, what am I looking for? Will the P0102 code disappear?

On the note of gaskets, I was thinking about doing the vanos seals anyway so I might just get the whole kit from x8r along with the disa and do that at the same time but thanks for the recommendation.

 

[enuff_zed]

I did unplug the MAF to change the inlet duct but I didn't run the car with it disconnected. I'm probably being a bit dim here but if I run the car without the MAF connected, what am I looking for? Will the P0102 code disappear?

Not sure tbh. It was just a hope that it would prove or disprove the MAF.

 

[colb]

Maf's either work or they don't cleaning them with Maf cleaner may solve any issue they have or completely kill them, that's what happened to mine. Unplugging it will cause the DME to run in default mode, if you do that the car should run a little better if the fault is with the Maf misreporting what its seeing passing through it.
Air leaks are the most common cause of bad running as air that's getting in post the Maf sensor will be picked up by the exhaust sensors and make the car think its running lean. As a consequence of this the DME instructs more fuel to be input by the injectors to richen the mixture. This will go on until its injecting more fuel until it reaches 20% more fuel being injected before it realises its not solving the issue and will light up the EML to draw attention to the fault. Air leaks can be anywhere across the engine, usually its the rubber inlet boot from Maf to Throttle body that splits. However check all rubber and plastic vacuum pipes/hoses and cam cover gaskets for leaks, if oil is getting out air can get in. The O ring in the dipstick tube can also be the cause. Worth checking the rear underside of the intake manifold, this has rubber blanking plugs that perish and fall off allowing air to get in and upset the fuel trims. Really worth looking at fuel trims using a decent scanner to see what they are doing, high readings can be a tell-tale that you have air leaks. A smoke test is a good way to find air leaks that can't be found doing a visual check.
If you are going to replace the Maf use only oem brands Bosch or Siemens do not waste money on cheap versions they rarly work or last long, been there done that.
Code would need to be cleared, it won't go away on its own with a replacement Maf being fitted.

 

[Andrew J]

I did unplug the MAF to change the inlet duct but I didn't run the car with it disconnected. I'm probably being a bit dim here but if I run the car without the MAF connected, what am I looking for? Will the P0102 code disappear?

Not sure tbh. It was just a hope that it would prove or disprove the MAF.

I'll try this and see if it solves the maf not reading.

Maf's either work or they don't cleaning them with Maf cleaner may solve any issue they have or completely kill them, that's what happened to mine. Unplugging it will cause the DME to run in default mode, if you do that the car should run a little better if the fault is with the Maf misreporting what its seeing passing through it.
Air leaks are the most common cause of bad running as air that's getting in post the Maf sensor will be picked up by the exhaust sensors and make the car think its running lean. As a consequence of this the DME instructs more fuel to be input by the injectors to richen the mixture. This will go on until its injecting more fuel until it reaches 20% more fuel being injected before it realises its not solving the issue and will light up the EML to draw attention to the fault. Air leaks can be anywhere across the engine, usually its the rubber inlet boot from Maf to Throttle body that splits. However check all rubber and plastic vacuum pipes/hoses and cam cover gaskets for leaks, if oil is getting out air can get in. The O ring in the dipstick tube can also be the cause. Worth checking the rear underside of the intake manifold, this has rubber blanking plugs that perish and fall off allowing air to get in and upset the fuel trims. Really worth looking at fuel trims using a decent scanner to see what they are doing, high readings can be a tell-tale that you have air leaks. A smoke test is a good way to find air leaks that can't be found doing a visual check.
If you are going to replace the Maf use only oem brands Bosch or Siemens do not waste money on cheap versions they rarly work or last long, been there done that.
Code would need to be cleared, it won't go away on its own with a replacement Maf being fitted.

Thanks for the response. When I had the car running it was running pretty good. I do remember now that there was a hissing noise which I think was from thr inlet ductcwhich I've changed. The leak can't be too bad as the car hasn't thrown an EML even with thr inlet duct leak. I'll check on realoem where the bungs are and see if they've perished. I might change the dipstick o ring too however it was pretty tight to get out so I suspect it isn't this. I did notice there is fuel trims on my app so will investigate them next time. I'd read that about ebay cheapo MAFs but thanks for the heads up.

With regards to the oil out air in case, can you reuse the rocker cover gasket? By reuse I mean I'm looking to change the vanos seals at some point and the full kit comes with a new rocker cover gasket so I was going to buy the full kit and just replace the vanos seals later in the year once the car is running and my fingers aren't going to fall off because of the cold. If you can't reuse it I'll just buy a gasket now and get the full kit later down the line.

Just to clarify, I wouldn't reuse the gasket that is currently on the car :lol:

 

[colb]

Newish gasket should be ok for reuse with gasket sealant only around the half moon shapes at the front and rear of the head and between the Vanos these locations are where the gasket changes direction and ensures a good seal. Its probably not had time to degrade but do check the condition you find it in and replace just the main gasket if there are any signs of damage or hardness.
Gaskets degrade over time and repeated heat cycles, they end up hard and brittle often cracking and allowing oil out and air in. The centre plug well gaskets are also prone to degrading, worst case is oil being allowed into the plug wells and fouling plug and ignition coils on the plugs.
I use Elring brand gasket sets that include the round rubber cover seals that are under the retaining bolts. These also go hard and prevent an accurate torque down on the gasket to provide an oil/airtight seal on the cover. Always replace as a set. Done a few E85's now for members and myself and not had any come back with leaks.

 

[Andrew J]

I haven't checked the centre plug wells yet but I was going to just change them anyway as well as the bolt seals. X8r do an elring set that I was going to get.

I popped the bonnet again today whilst it was sunny out to spy where the oil leak has got too. Its coated the exhaust down pipe and the heat shield where it bends round at the bottom. Once I've done the gasket I was going to clean the area but I didn't want to soak any sensors lurking in the depths down there. Does anyone know if there's any I should be careful of? Only one I can see is a lambda sensor I've spotted on the exhaust.

 

[Andrew J]

So I've got the x8r disa kit and full vanos kit. Looking to start these two jobs this weekend. I've done a bit of research from forum surfing and the University of youtube around vanos removal and most folks seem to remove an engine mount and lower the engine or massage the crossmember away from the unit with a big stick. I'm loath to do bend the structure of the car and jacking the car isn't really an option
as I don't have readily available axle stands to get the car up on (was hoping to do these jobs without jacking the car up). As I understand it (could be wrong here) the bolts for the vanos units are just studs in the head so in theory they could be removed? Potentially with a second nut? Is there room and threads to do this? It would save a lot of faff having to get the car up and then removing a mount then jacking the engine down or bending the car/breaking whatever I'm levering against.

 

[Joez4]

Don't think there is enough thread to get two nuts locked on, I think the way to do it going down that route is get the vanos lose and pulled up to the cross member and get a pair of vice grips on the stud and remove it, this will destroy the thread but it's the unused bit, think from memory it's only one stud at the bottom that the vanos doesn't clear,

I would personally get a pair of axle stands or ramps and get the car in the air as lifting the engine off the mount is so easy it doesn't have to go up much for it to clear and they will be a worthwhile purchase and come in handy for other jobs on the car

 

[Andrew J]

I'm in the middle of changing the disa valve and have hit a snag. I've removed the orange gasket in the slot but the x8r video doesn't show to do this. I e phoned them and no one from product development is in now. Anybody know whether this seal will not cause an air leak now?

Also, is it easier to refit the icv with the little hose out of the inlet manifold. It's playing all beggars and not going back on.

 

[enuff_zed]

That seal needed to stay in place, or be replaced if there was one in the X8R kit. They always used to include one?
For the icv, just a light spray of silicon lubricant on the metal pipe should help it slide into the hose.

 

[Andrew J]

That seal needed to stay in place, or be replaced if there was one in the X8R kit. They always used to include one?
For the icv, just a light spray of silicon lubricant on the metal pipe should help it slide into the hose.

Thanks for the reply enuff_zed. There was a seal with the kit which I put in its place. After posting I managaed to get the icv and the disa back on the car. When I put the disa back on it seemed a nice snug fit whereas when I took it off it didn't take much effort at all so I think the seal must be sealing. Silicon lubricant noted for future though