Uprated anti roll bars?

Geometry wise I run marginal toe out on the front with -2 camber. On the rear I run marginal toe in with -1.8 camber.
 
If you fit uprated ARBs IMO it's imperative that you also fit adjustable drop links and that you take great care in setting them up so that the ARB is not preloaded. This way the ARB exerts no pressure on the mounts when the car is standing or being driven on a level surface. Likewise, when the drop links are properly set up, the ARB is only working when the car is in roll, which is the only time that an ARB is needed.
 
exdos said:
If you fit uprated ARBs IMO it's imperative that you also fit adjustable drop links and that you take great care in setting them up so that the ARB is not preloaded. This way the ARB exerts no pressure on the mounts when the car is standing or being driven on a level surface. Likewise, when the drop links are properly set up, the ARB is only working when the car is in roll, which is the only time that an ARB is needed.
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Confused by that. Why would there be pre load on the bar on flat ground? Adjustable drop links are to enable you to move the anti roll bar into another position, so if extremely low, it may hit the chassis. So you need adjustable drop links to adjust the position of the ends of the bar itself.
 
chris said:
Confused by that. Why would there be pre load on the bar on flat ground? Adjustable drop links are to enable you to move the anti roll bar into another position, so if extremely low, it may hit the chassis. So you need adjustable drop links to adjust the position of the ends of the bar itself.
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If you fit uprated ARBs I think you need beefier drop links than OEM. If you then fit adjustable drop links you adjust the first one to set the position of the arms of the bar and then you need to carefuly adjust the other drop link to a length which applies no tension/pressure on the ARB. I can't see the cause for confusion. It's quite easy to put preload on the ARB if you don't adjust the 2nd drop link with care
 
exdos said:
chris said:
Confused by that. Why would there be pre load on the bar on flat ground? Adjustable drop links are to enable you to move the anti roll bar into another position, so if extremely low, it may hit the chassis. So you need adjustable drop links to adjust the position of the ends of the bar itself.
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If you fit uprated ARBs I think you need beefier drop links than OEM. If you then fit adjustable drop links you adjust the first one to set the position of the arms of the bar and then you need to carefuly adjust the other drop link to a length which applies no tension/pressure on the ARB. I can't see the cause for confusion. It's quite easy to put preload on the ARB if you don't adjust the 2nd drop link with care
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Ah i understand what you mean :thumbsup:

Ive fitted a lot if aftermarket ARB's, and only the Hotchkis one i had came with adjustable drop links. Even then i used the stock ones. The M versions are very good, and unless you fit some dodgy coilovers with the arb mounts loose on the shock body, then it will be fine.

Ive heard the yanks putting ore load on the arb, but only as they only turn left (nascar etc). Otherwise its not worth it.
 
chris said:
Ah i understand what you mean :thumbsup:

Ive fitted a lot if aftermarket ARB's, and only the Hotchkis one i had came with adjustable drop links. Even then i used the stock ones. The M versions are very good, and unless you fit some dodgy coilovers with the arb mounts loose on the shock body, then it will be fine.

Ive heard the yanks putting ore load on the arb, but only as they only turn left (nascar etc). Otherwise its not worth it.
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A lot of sources suggest that ARBs should only be a last resort for fine tuning suspension, but in the case of the Z3MC, fitting uprated ARBs with OEM suspension transforms the car and is acknowledged by owners to be the best bang for buck with that car.

In the case of the Z4MC, a different set of problems exist, so upgrading the springs and dampers is required before uprating ARBs will have any significant effect. The Z4MC's rear springs are thicker than the Z3MC's OEM rear ARB!
 
I will be leaving mine stock. Well see how Bedford goes first, but i will install the black powerflex bushes, and go from there. Impressed with the handling as it is though :)
 
chris said:
I will be leaving mine stock. Well see how Bedford goes first, but i will install the black powerflex bushes, and go from there. Impressed with the handling as it is though :)
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After driving my heavily modded Z3MC, which I bought OEM, I think the ride and handling of the OEM Z4MC is dreadful, and for less than £3k spent on the right suspension parts, the car can be transformed. For me, it's money well spent.
 
On the Z3MC I updated both ARBs to H&R and added new Meyer drop links. The difference is like night and day. Well worth the £300-400 investment.
 
uprated ARBS definately help make the most out of uprated suspension, it's not only roll but it makes the tyres dig in much harder. You can set them up to either increase or decrease under/ oversteer. As Exdos said understeer is also down to how you drive (too hot into a corner the front will wash wide- take a few degrees of steering lock of and the front regains tracktion, you can train brake too for example). Either way you don't want and oversteery car for the road.
 
exdos said:
chris said:
I will be leaving mine stock. Well see how Bedford goes first, but i will install the black powerflex bushes, and go from there. Impressed with the handling as it is though :)
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After driving my heavily modded Z3MC, which I bought OEM, I think the ride and handling of the OEM Z4MC is dreadful, and for less than £3k spent on the right suspension parts, the car can be transformed. For me, it's money well spent.
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Nah Exdos, you just did not give it enough of a honeymoon period. I reckon it takes 2 years to bond with its wikder unruly charms!
 
ChawenHalo said:
Nah Exdos, you just did not give it enough of a honeymoon period. I reckon it takes 2 years to bond with its wikder unruly charms!
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:rofl: My neck simply wouldn't have lasted for 2 years with an OEM Z4MC and I can tolerate karting no problem.
 
hey guys, watched a video with great interest this evening.......


Please take the time to look, its really interesting and on this subject.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WhWZ57baTOw
 
I've just watched it, but what does he prove? He's talking of removing the ARBs and uprating the front spring rates to 1,000 lbs/inch! IIRC the spring rate of the KW Clubsports for the Z4M are around 400 lbs/inch.
 
exdos said:
I've just watched it, but what does he prove? He's talking of removing the ARBs and uprating the front spring rates to 1,000 lbs/inch! IIRC the spring rate of the KW Clubsports for the Z4M are around 400 lbs/inch.
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Who's talking about the z4m? ? Or running no sway bars on a z4m?

Just thought I'd post up the video on a related subject from a different perspective. Pipe down a little.
 
Exdos - do you happen to know the rear spring rates for the Z4M clubsports - I believe they're progressive rate?
- I'm running a linear rate on the rear currently and not totally convinced this is right for me, so would be interested to see rates for KW Clubsport progressive
- no worries if you don't, I feel like I've seen them somewhere before, maybe on the US forum?
 
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