UPDATED::: Z4M S54 Engine Hesitation - POLL

[Slideways]

To add my 2 penneth worth, my roadster dipped when the clutch was depressed and it had the usual hesitation. I carried out my usual regular servicing and changed the oil and plugs - the cars pulls more strongly and the revs no longer dip. Maybe there is a correlation, I don't know but it may assist.

Idle dip when coming to a stop can be caused by a vacuum leak somewhere in the intake system or a faulty MAF. If you serviced the intake system and tightened up the clamps in and around the MAF, then that would resolve the issue.

 

[Simon 3.2M]

A further update - it’s back somewhat on mine now however, if I engage the sport button the car drives perfectly and you can “stab” the throttle without issue etc.

 

[PDJ]

A further update - it’s back somewhat on mine now however, if I engage the sport button the car drives perfectly and you can “stab” the throttle without issue etc.

The sport button just adds 20% to the position it is actually in, so my suggestion would be one of the two throttle position sensors

 

[Slideways]

Don't forget the throttle pedal. That also can cause throttle position issues. The TPS at the front of the engine is usually the first to try as it is easy to access. The TPS sensors can be tested with a multimeter if you want to try that route.

 

[Brinkman1024]

Raising the dead again! I recently purchased a 2007 Z4MC with 66K miles. I have replaced coils, plugs, some hoses (don't recall which ones -- my independent shop found what needed replacement and did it). On two occasions so far, after driving the car for anywhere from 30-90 minutes, parking (e.g. to get a coffee or In-and-Out), then returning to the car are restarting the fully warmed up S54, the car will have a very rough idle, with audible sadness and slight shake. Turn the key to off, immediately restart the car again and it is perfectly fine — like it never happened. I have no idea what this could be, but this thread seemed to closest match to my symptoms. I have never (yet) experienced this issue with a cold engine.

I'll attach a picture of my car to this post to attract attention. Any help/clues are greatly appreciated. Thank you!

 

[BMWZ4MC]

Mine did that from time to time always when restarting a hot engine in the months leading up to a cam position sensor failing. Eventually, it went into limp mode and threw the relevant OBD code. Replacing the faulty sensor resolved the problem.

Welcome, by the way. This is a very sociable forum and full of useful advice, so you’ll probably want to stick around!

 

[Brinkman1024]

Thank you!

 

[samZ4M]

Your bump has prompted me to ask the question:

My car is generally fine, but when cold it does stutter under 3k when cold, I generally try to keep the revs above this, but not ideal give it's warming up. If the stutter is bad, I get an EML on and it feels like it's on 5 cyl until a restart of the car fixes it and it works fine again. Never any codes which is weirder.

Generally it's on less than half throttle, but if I gun it a bit, it kind of overcomes the issue. It's as if it's bad fuel, but only use premium and it's done it for multiple tanks.

 

[Vanne]

please dont take the car over 3k revs unless its warmed up.. not saying you should save your girlfriend for the next bloke, but..