Unbelievable...
- Thread starter Georgio
- Start date
Hmmm that crack looks very clean considering the dirt around the wheel. That looks very much like fresh damage to me and very likely that this has been done by the tyre fitter. I suspect it has been caused by them using a tool to try and lever the tyre off the rim and applying far too much pressure in the centre of the rim.
Was it a run flat they were removing? I have heard that they can be difficult to get off, and care is required by tyre fitters when removing them.
Was it a run flat they were removing? I have heard that they can be difficult to get off, and care is required by tyre fitters when removing them.
OK. At the risk of my mood souring by talking about my pet hate.... having seen first-hand four sets of genuine BMW wheels with cracks - those caused by run-flats seem generally to be across the wheel rather than along the diameter. Of course, I would point out that, although this happened with me on four sets, they were of two different styles. They were all the same size (18") and all from my 5er (and all rears). And all of my cracks showed a degree of corrosion, which indicated that they had been there for some time....I wouldn't like to say that any of this is sure-fire evidence, just my own sorry experience!
I too would say that those cracks look very fresh to me. I know that run-flat tyres are a b*tch to take off rims...
I too would say that those cracks look very fresh to me. I know that run-flat tyres are a b*tch to take off rims...
The more I look at this (and the very suspicious scrape marks around the site of the crack) the more I am convinced this has been caused by the tyre fitter in a botched removal attempt.
The general site of cracks on wheels suffering from cracking was around the edge of the alloy. I saw a lot of crack damaged rims while I looking for a set of 225m rims for my 330. These are particularly susceptible to cracking and each rim that I saw were all cracked along the edge (as seen in the photo below)
I feel for you Georgio, I would be very unhappy if I were you :thumbsdown:
The general site of cracks on wheels suffering from cracking was around the edge of the alloy. I saw a lot of crack damaged rims while I looking for a set of 225m rims for my 330. These are particularly susceptible to cracking and each rim that I saw were all cracked along the edge (as seen in the photo below)
I feel for you Georgio, I would be very unhappy if I were you :thumbsdown:
you know it!mrlozzer said:TH3R4POR said:
That's my favourite ever rant, right there... but I'm not going there today - I'm in a happy place...
SING IT, BROTHER!mrlozzer said:
[split rim pics]
there's no way that would have had any air in it if you took to them like that.
There could have been something structurally wrong with the rim and their machine did the rest, but it couldn't have been like that before you got there, it's all too clean.
Ideally you need someone who knows how the tyre removal machines work to see where the damage is and whether that's where the bead breaky thing is located.
CheersGeorgio said:Right been over there to have a look and the split is in the middle of the wheel about 2" long right where the flat section of the wheel angles down to meet the spokes, so it looks like the weld or whatever has cracked.
I'm not an expert but I was shocked by how shoddy these 135M wheels look from the inside.
I'm caught between them telling me that it's BMW's problem with monkey metal alloys and BMW telling me the only monkeys are those changing the tyres.
Either way I've ordered a new wheel which will be here tomorrow, as I haven't a choice and I'll have to try and sort this out with BMW/the garage after the event.
I feel like I should change my name to AndySat at this rate...
-i do feel for you 
bcworkz said:
Seconded - how would those scrape marks get there INSIDE the rim where the crack is (under the tyre too) unless it was their machine ? No way that could have been there before - too clean as said, and too large for the tyre to have had any air in it at all. Dirty feckers :x :thumbsdown:
I deal with material fatigue failures at work a lot, and I agree completely on two counts....
Firstly, that s a definite new break, the rough internal surface of the material would have picked up a load of sh!t in seconds compared to the smooth wheel material, and looking at the colour of the wheel, there is no way that could be a old crack as it would be a big black line!
Secondly, despite never having heard of BMW wheels failing before (I've been a ford guy for few years) It looks like thats a weak point of the wheel anyway.
I would imagine that the area has been fatigued by the driving (by the wheel being as noted above , not fit for purpose) and the scuffs inside indicate that the bead tool may have been in that area when it slipped/stalled/caught, concentrating all the pressure into an already weakened area, when that happens metal does some strange things!
Its not too clear on the picture, but if the crack has been 'opened up' like a valley, it will be due to too much pressure from either side... in this case from the rims being pushed too hard and the metal exploding out. If the metal has 'stepped' this makes it a bit more tricky to diagnose!
In fairness, the wheel was probably on its way out...unfortunately metal fatigue rarely show before it completely wrecks something! It might be tricky to get the garage to admit liability, but think yourself lucky that it didn't go catastrophically wrong and split the wheel much more whilst driving..... run flats are no use when the back half of the wheel has sheared off!
Wattsie
Wattsie
Firstly, that s a definite new break, the rough internal surface of the material would have picked up a load of sh!t in seconds compared to the smooth wheel material, and looking at the colour of the wheel, there is no way that could be a old crack as it would be a big black line!
Secondly, despite never having heard of BMW wheels failing before (I've been a ford guy for few years) It looks like thats a weak point of the wheel anyway.
I would imagine that the area has been fatigued by the driving (by the wheel being as noted above , not fit for purpose) and the scuffs inside indicate that the bead tool may have been in that area when it slipped/stalled/caught, concentrating all the pressure into an already weakened area, when that happens metal does some strange things!
Its not too clear on the picture, but if the crack has been 'opened up' like a valley, it will be due to too much pressure from either side... in this case from the rims being pushed too hard and the metal exploding out. If the metal has 'stepped' this makes it a bit more tricky to diagnose!
In fairness, the wheel was probably on its way out...unfortunately metal fatigue rarely show before it completely wrecks something! It might be tricky to get the garage to admit liability, but think yourself lucky that it didn't go catastrophically wrong and split the wheel much more whilst driving..... run flats are no use when the back half of the wheel has sheared off!
Wattsie
Wattsie
I agree with the above - the crack looks fresh to me, and the scuff is on a protected part of the wheel so can only have occurred taking the tyre off the rim. Have you considered going back to the tyre fitters and showing them an alternative use for tyre irons? I'm sure they'd be more prepared to admit liability, and even if they don't you'll feel much better :brucelee:
Luckily I know a guy who works at where I need to take my car back for it's MOT re-check on Saturday. I'll take the wheel along and ask his professional opinion as he fits tyres all day long.
I don't want to say too much on here as you never know, but official wheels are in motion as it were :roll:
I don't want to say too much on here as you never know, but official wheels are in motion as it were :roll:
