Uh-oh

[RobbiZ4]

The correct way in Ist*a is via the JBE unit on top of the ECU diagram.

 

[bte123]

Bte123, who mentioned Ista? Read my post again, you can probably open the boot without the fusebox method. It works but is a pita

it was mentioned earlier in the thread that there's a way to unlock and open the boot through INPA (and INSTA) but my installed INPA didn't have this option. anyway, shall be doing manual 12 pin method this week. thanks for the help.

 

[RobbiZ4]

The correct way in Ist*a is via the JBE unit on top of the ECU diagram.

Even in INPA the same story:
this function is ONLY located at the Junction Box (JBBF).

 

[bte123]

I think I have a further problem that I cannot think of a way around.

The problem with the roof seems to have drained the battery - putting the key in the ignition gives absolutely no result and trying to turn on the ignition the same - nothing.

Would the 12 pin trick still work with a dead battery? How does anyone get into the boot if the battery dies?

I've tried connecting the pin to the fuze with copper wire from an electrician friend but no result when I do this.

Any suggestions?

 

[B21]

I think I have a further problem that I cannot think of a way around.

The problem with the roof seems to have drained the battery - putting the key in the ignition gives absolutely no result and trying to turn on the ignition the same - nothing.

Would the 12 pin trick still work with a dead battery? How does anyone get into the boot if the battery dies?

I've tried connecting the pin to the fuze with copper wire from an electrician friend but no result when I do this.

Any suggestions?

You need to use the main battery charging point in the engine bay..its a red plastic covered point near the bulkhead..remove the red cap and /or either put a jumper battery to that or a decent charger and recharge the battery..attend to charging the battery immediately otherwise it will be ruined and you'll need a new one of those to add to your woes..

 

[bte123]

I think I have a further problem that I cannot think of a way around.

The problem with the roof seems to have drained the battery - putting the key in the ignition gives absolutely no result and trying to turn on the ignition the same - nothing.

Would the 12 pin trick still work with a dead battery? How does anyone get into the boot if the battery dies?

I've tried connecting the pin to the fuze with copper wire from an electrician friend but no result when I do this.

Any suggestions?

You need to use the main battery charging point in the engine bay..its a red plastic covered point near the bulkhead..remove the red cap and /or either put a jumper battery to that or a decent charger and recharge the battery..attend to charging the battery immediately otherwise it will be ruined and you'll need a new one of those to add to your woes..

Thanks mate, this sounds like the next step. Though it's been a few days so could be completely dead. I'll give it a go with a charger and then see what happens.

Is the assumption that a battery with at least some charge in it should then mean the 12 pin trick will work?

 

[B21]

I think I have a further problem that I cannot think of a way around.

The problem with the roof seems to have drained the battery - putting the key in the ignition gives absolutely no result and trying to turn on the ignition the same - nothing.

Would the 12 pin trick still work with a dead battery? How does anyone get into the boot if the battery dies?

I've tried connecting the pin to the fuze with copper wire from an electrician friend but no result when I do this.

Any suggestions?

You need to use the main battery charging point in the engine bay..its a red plastic covered point near the bulkhead..remove the red cap and /or either put a jumper battery to that or a decent charger and recharge the battery..attend to charging the battery immediately otherwise it will be ruined and you'll need a new one of those to add to your woes..

Thanks mate, this sounds like the next step. Though it's been a few days so could be completely dead. I'll give it a go with a charger and then see what happens.

Is the assumption that a battery with at least some charge in it should then mean the 12 pin trick will work?

Pin 12 trick only requires a small amount of power..that's not the issue..flattening your battery on a E89 is a very bad thing to do..I can't remember in the thread as to how odl the battery was..

 

[bte123]

You need to use the main battery charging point in the engine bay..its a red plastic covered point near the bulkhead..remove the red cap and /or either put a jumper battery to that or a decent charger and recharge the battery..attend to charging the battery immediately otherwise it will be ruined and you'll need a new one of those to add to your woes..

Thanks mate, this sounds like the next step. Though it's been a few days so could be completely dead. I'll give it a go with a charger and then see what happens.

Is the assumption that a battery with at least some charge in it should then mean the 12 pin trick will work?

Pin 12 trick only requires a small amount of power..that's not the issue..flattening your battery on a E89 is a very bad thing to do..I can't remember in the thread as to how odl the battery was..

Yes I've heard this. The stupid thing is it isn't driveable at the moment so taking it out and keeping what little charge was left in it wasn't really feasible. It's all been a mess and timings have been keeping me from being able to do anything about it.

It was a cheap purchase 5 years ago as a cat s for some bodywork damage but I got the feeling it had been severely unloved in general for some time. Mechanically it's absolutely purring but electric l roof has been a bit of a persistent thorn - the hydraulic motor is shafted and I desperately need to replace it, so I can then lock the roof in place and then actually drive it.

I'm guessing the frm module might be fecked after the battery drain, I've seen some services on eBay which will re program it and send it back so will prepare to have to remove that too I think.

 

[bte123]

Update:

popped the boot! i popped the boot!

had to reconnect a pin connector or two in the fuse box which id undone to get better access, put a jumper charger on through the point under the hood and then heard the sweetest of sweet sounds! thank god for you guys.

now... I've removed the pump from the hydraulic unit and am going to clean / dry it out over a day or two. i'll also be looking to dry out the entire footwell area, put some waterproof lining down (i have some waterproof tarp to use) and replace the foam (i've bought some from ebay).

for the life of me i can't work out where the water is getting in from. it isn't wet anywhere in the general area of the boot, only INBETWEEN the plastic layer cover and the actual fabric layer cover which covers the access to the battery / pump. very strange.

the next issue i might have is once the battery is charged the frm might be fecked, will have to wait and see.

 

[B21]

The water usually comes through the rubber gaskets around rear lights or the vents in the boot...

 

[RobbiZ4]

now... I've removed the pump from the hydraulic unit

Hopefully not all the 12 hydraulic hoses!! That's not an area to play without any knowledge!!!

But, if the pump really was Under water, you have to remove the cover of the motor to get it dried out completely.

You can remove the 2 screws on the absolute right of the motor to pull the metal cover off witbout any risk. Maybe the internal temperature sensor is dead, but that will come up later.

 

[bte123]

now... I've removed the pump from the hydraulic unit

Hopefully not all the 12 hydraulic hoses!! That's not an area to play without any knowledge!!!

But, if the pump really was Under water, you have to remove the cover of the motor to get it dried out completely.

You can remove the 2 screws on the absolute right of the motor to pull the metal cover off witbout any risk. Maybe the internal temperature sensor is dead, but that will come up later.

i actually had to do this once before so absolutely, not touching the hoses. I've removed the motor alone and have cleaned and dried out both parts (they pull apart after you break the magnetic seal).

i've drilled two small sump holes into the base and dried it out. lets see what happens after the battery if fully charged, i suspect the frm is knackered so i'll send it off for repair if need be.

thanks for the input, the fusebox was one of the trickiest bits as it is so difficult to get to position wise and is only easy once you know how i guess.

 

[bte123]

Battery has been fully charged by an garage and I replaced it this morning. When I put the key in the ignition stage 1 is fine, radio lights, parking break and main central icon on dash comes on.

Absolutely nothing else however - so response when trying to get to 'stage 2' or starting the car, and no other electrical response

Would this possibly point to a bricked FRM? Would this prevent even starting the car or getting the full dash illuminated? I've removed it from under the foot well on drivers side and plan to send it off tomorrow as Carly reported an frm fault.

I did get ccid 719 on the dash but surely if the battery was completely totalled it wouldn't work at all? I thought I might try fixing the frm first then maybe try a new / replacement battery?

If anyone has insight it'd be appreciated but I do have one or two ideas to see how they play out in the meantime.

 

[B21]

What voltage is the battery showing under load..?

Not usual for flaunt batteries to nominally recharge but then collapse as soon as any load applied..just had it with a big leisure battery that I let go flat..never been used ..shows 13v off load..any load and it’s down to 9v..but even CTEK says it’s ok and fully charged..

Then it’s fault code reader time assuming the battery is good..

 

[bte123]

What voltage is the battery showing under load..?

Not usual for flaunt batteries to nominally recharge but then collapse as soon as any load applied..just had it with a big leisure battery that I let go flat..never been used ..shows 13v off load..any load and it’s down to 9v..but even CTEK says it’s ok and fully charged..

Then it’s fault code reader time assuming the battery is good..

I tried a brand new battery and I'm getting the same issue - some lights show that power is indeed going through the car (radio, parking break) but putting key in just illuminates the central dash elements and i get the bong of ccid 719 which 'indicates' a faulty battery. the new battery was registered to the car using carly and all went smoothly. Attempting to move into phase two of ignition does nothing, absolutely no more response from dash etc.

error code looked to be A3C1 - i had the frm module fixed and reconnected it before the new battery. was told this should just be plug and play.

im at a loss now, no idea where to turn.
i already have a new car and this one (14+ years old, cat s, speakers on their way out, hydraulic pump issues which started this whole thing) leading me to think this is just worth scrapping.

i can't start it to get it to an indy, it's probably only worth £500-£1000 on a private sale in working order anyway so don't really want to spend a few £100's getting it picked up, inspected, then worked on etc.

anyone want a track car? lol.

seriously, if anyone has any 'try this at home' next steps then great, but if not I think I'll get what I can for it and move on.

 

[Chippie]

Just guessing here but could there be a problem with the immobiliser loosing sync with the key?