Type 108 Wheel Crack

K

ksquared

New member
I was adding air to my right front tire yesterday when, lo and behold, I find this:

BMW%20Wheel%20Crack.jpg

Question is, what can I do about it, if anything, short of replacing the wheel? I have TPMS on my 2007 3.0si.

A new wheel, installed, is going to cost about $800, and I haven't even been able to find one.

Thanks for any help you can provide.
 
Have you tried contacting an Alloy Wheel Repairer to see if it can be welded..or repaired ..?

If not keep an eye on here there are always 108,s coming up for sale.. :thumbsup:

What profile are your tyres they look really skinny..? Also if they are RFT,s I would change them to normal tyres because that would help in the future of it happening again..bit more cushioning on normal tyres compared to RFT,s..
 
That is a serious crack! Not a regular occurrence on the 108 type. How far does it extend into the wheel rim or it hidden behind the spoke circumference only?
Might just have to wait and search on tinterweb for one at a salvage yard from a wreck?
I see you are in the US.
Good luck :thumbsup:
 
Eek thats a worry, certainly not seen that on a 108 before.

I would get your suspension/ alignment checked too, if a bump did that could have done more damage elsewhere.

Personally as it a split rim i wouldnt even bother getting it welded. See if you can source a spare from the breakers/ ebay.... Even one in bad condition and just split and refurb it.


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Agree with the guys that I would not try to weld that. Looks like a serious crack. That said I'm no expert on what is safe to weld or not so you may do well to visit a shop and get an opinion, but start looking for a replacement at the same time.

Remember if sourcing a replacement there are different sizes. What you need is stamped on the inside of one of the spokes.
 
Shame you're in the wrong country, I'm pretty sure I could have sorted you out with a drum, (with one snapped bolt) for free.
 
In theory there is no reason why it could not be welded. Provided the welder is suitably qualified and the weld procedure suitably approved for the grade of material.

Did a lot of work with a foundry a few years back and if done correctly the weld was always stronger than the original material. But it was done by properly trained staff with controlled pre and post weld heat treatments and crack detection afterwards.

Personally I would not bother with an alloy wheel, especially as you can pick them up on ebay quite easily.
 
Speed - you're spot on. Trouble is the rim is off sent away and you have no idea of who of how the weld was done. Best not find out on a motorway or sharp bend :(
 
That's exactly why I moved to aftermarket wheels. I've had two OEM wheels crack on my 3.0i due to the low profile, granted they were 107's and not 108's. I paid for the replacement twice at over $500 each. A new set of flow formed wheels (5 lbs lighter per wheel) can be as cheap as $800 with free U.S. shipping (Apex Aero-7). I chose to go with Sportline CS.16.
 
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