Turn Signal Sound

N

Nocturnal

Member
Hello,

I have a 2004 Z4. My turn signal lights operate as normal (exterior and interior on the dash). But, the ticking sound that you hear when it's blinking does not work. How can I fix the ticking noise, so I can hear it again? It doesn't work with the hazard lights either.

I do have a Carly OBD as well, if there are any codes to check for. None of the current codes popped out to me.

Thanks!
 
Contact Bigwinn (Stuart). I had a similar problem and tried all sorts to fix it without success. However, he solved the problem that none of the commercial sources throughout the country couldn’t. The source of the problem lies in the central binnacle. I’m not at all technical but I’m sure Stuart will be able to answer your questions.
 
IRD said:
Contact Bigwinn (Stuart). I had a similar problem and tried all sorts to fix it without success. However, he solved the problem that none of the commercial sources throughout the country couldn’t. The source of the problem lies in the central binnacle. I’m not at all technical but I’m sure Stuart will be able to answer your questions.
Click to expand...
Thanks! @bigwinn any advice here?
 
Hi bud

Thanks Ian for the referral!

What I did for Ian (and others since) is swap the eeprom chip from your clocks into a set of clocks I have in the parts bin

Where are you based?
 
bigwinn said:
Hi bud

Thanks Ian for the referral!

What I did for Ian (and others since) is swap the eeprom chip from your clocks into a set of clocks I have in the parts bin

Where are you based?
Click to expand...
Hi Stuart,

Unfortunately I’m in the US. But I’m ready to solder and take a part the car :) Would posting my errors from my OBD help you?

Thanks!
 
No dramas bud

Let me dig the thread out it’s pretty simple to do if you are fairly handy with tools

Quickest I’ve done one is about 30 mins all in

You’ll need a donor set of clocks, just make sure they match your transmission- eg manual clocks or auto clocks
 
Here you go

bigwinn

Thread 'Clocks swap- solved'

I decided to embark on this as a project for Ian
IRD
Click to expand...

His clocks were starting to play up- the indicator tick noise was intermittent and I tried to fix that to no avail

Knowing that if I swapped clocks from another car I would either need to recode or accept that the mileage tamper dot was going to pop up I asked around for a solution

James
IAmOrion
Click to expand...
came up with a really cool solution- open the clocks up and transplant the eeprom chip- credit where its due to him for his technical knowledge

I purchased a de-solderer and broke open a spare set of clocks- did the same to...
 
bigwinn said:
Here you go

bigwinn

Thread 'Clocks swap- solved'

I decided to embark on this as a project for Ian
IRD
Click to expand...

His clocks were starting to play up- the indicator tick noise was intermittent and I tried to fix that to no avail

Knowing that if I swapped clocks from another car I would either need to recode or accept that the mileage tamper dot was going to pop up I asked around for a solution

James
IAmOrion
Click to expand...
came up with a really cool solution- open the clocks up and transplant the eeprom chip- credit where its due to him for his technical knowledge

I purchased a de-solderer and broke open a spare set of clocks- did the same to...
Click to expand...
I see, btw when you mention clocks are you referring to entire gauge cluster or a set of clocks soldered to the garage cluster that have gone bad?

I have the manual 6 speed 3.0i for my Z4. Would I need to get an exact model match for my donor?

There is a person local who has an automatic gauge cluster, so I’m wondering if instead of soldering the epprom I go for the clock? Or would they cause the tamper light to come on?
 
Nocturnal said:
I see, btw when you mention clocks are you referring to entire gauge cluster or a set of clocks soldered to the garage cluster that have gone bad?

I have the manual 6 speed 3.0i for my Z4. Would I need to get an exact model match for my donor?

There is a person local who has an automatic gauge cluster, so I’m wondering if instead of soldering the epprom I go for the clock? Or would they cause the tamper light to come on?
Click to expand...
Entire cluster as a full unit

You don’t need to get an absolute match on the oem number- but you do need it to be matched to facelift/prefacelift and manual/auto

The auto cluster won’t fit due to it having different apertures
 
bigwinn said:
Entire cluster as a full unit

You don’t need to get an absolute match on the oem number- but you do need it to be matched to facelift/prefacelift and manual/auto

The auto cluster won’t fit due to it having different apertures
Click to expand...
Oh I see, so the solution is to get a new cluster and desolder the epprom and resolder it to the donor board?
 
Yep that’s the one!

The eeprom holds all the data and mileage from your car so the donor clocks become yours

It’s worth looking at a desoldering unit- or even borrow one. They are good at getting the solder moving and to resecure the chip to the board
 
bigwinn said:
Yep that’s the one!

The eeprom holds all the data and mileage from your car so the donor clocks become yours

It’s worth looking at a desoldering unit- or even borrow one. They are good at getting the solder moving and to resecure the chip to the board
Click to expand...
Awesome, I think I understand now! So the new board will hopefully have a working speaker. And I will be taking my data and putting it on the new board.

Do you by chance have a photo or could you point out what the eeprom chip looks like on the board?
 
Yeah it’s circled on the thread a bit further down

The location varies by facelift and prefacelift but it’s the only chip regardless on that side of the board so you can’t miss it
 
Nocturnal said:
Awesome, I think I understand now! So the new board will hopefully have a working speaker. And I will be taking my data and putting it on the new board.

Do you by chance have a photo or could you point out what the eeprom chip looks like on the board?
Click to expand...
Would it be possible to connect the new unit to the car first to double check it works, or would that cause errors?
 
bigwinn said:
Yeah it’s circled on the thread a bit further down

The location varies by facelift and prefacelift but it’s the only chip regardless on that side of the board so you can’t miss it
Click to expand...
Gotcha, I’ll have a look through the thread. Does it matter if I get a 5 speed manual cluster vs a 6 speed manual? Since mine is a 6 speed?
 
Zedist said:
Would it be possible to connect the new unit to the car first to double check it works, or would that cause errors?
Click to expand...
You’ll only get a tamper dot (maybe)

When you return the original unit or new unit with new chip it will go
 
Nocturnal said:
Gotcha, I’ll have a look through the thread. Does it matter if I get a 5 speed manual cluster vs a 6 speed manual? Since mine is a 6 speed?
Click to expand...
I’m not 100% sure on that sorry- have a google see if anything comes up

On older BMWs the clusters have a coding chip dependent on engine size but I think that stopped around 1995

I’m assuming that gearbox choices shouldn’t make a difference
 
bigwinn said:
I’m not 100% sure on that sorry- have a google see if anything comes up

On older BMWs the clusters have a coding chip dependent on engine size but I think that stopped around 1995

I’m assuming that gearbox choices shouldn’t make a difference
Click to expand...
I see, btw so the root cause of the issue is with some electrical component on my current board. Do you happen to know what that component is? Is it worth trying to fix that?
 
There is a sounder

From memory it’s a black or cream coloured cylindrical component like a stack of dimes

I can’t recall why I didn’t swap that over but there was a reason…
 
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