Turbo E85 Roadster Build- Bottom Mount w/ AC

vbelsky

Member
Hi, all. Sharing my '03 Z4 3.0i bottom-mount turbo build.

Brief overview:

-MS43 ECU
-Has air conditioning
-CX racing GT35R turbo
-E83 X3 2.0d Luk clutch disc, N62 Luk pressure plate, stock Luk DMF
-M50 intake manifold and fuel rail (return is welded up)
-Bosch 0280158123 630cc injectors
-B6 Audi S4 MAF sensor
-Precision turbo PW46 46mm wastegate
-EMUSA Intercooler 25in. (total length; core length is 18in.) x 12 x 3 (2.75in. core)

Turbo Specs (CX racing GT35R journal bearing)

• Compressor housing - .70 A/R
• Turbine housing - .63 A/R
• Compressor Wheel 61.3 /82 mm
• Turbine Wheel 62 /67.8 mm
• 4in. inlet and 2.5in outlet

[youtube]FLfUtnFQEuw[/youtube]

Link to my wheelwell page with tons more photos and info:
https://wheelwell.com/vlad-belsky/2rj3/2003-bmw-z4
 
List of items purchased and costs for the build

Turbo Oil/Coolant feed
• Rally Road Feed line (bottom mount)- $33
• Rally Road Vanos bolt adapter to AN4 line- $33
• M14x1.5 to 3/8 barb (coolant to block)- $9
• 1/8 npt to 3/8 barb (coolant to lower rad hose)- $5
• 36 mm coupler with 1/8npt hole- $10
• Drain line (5/8 in pushlock hose and 3/4in heat shielding)- $20
• 5/8in weld-on aluminum bung for oil drain- $5
• Oil pan baffle kit and oil pan gasket- $204
• 10ft 3/8in ID ss braided teflon line- $40

Clutch
• E83 X3 2.0d Luk clutch disc (part # 21207553770)
E60 550i pressure plate (from Luk kit with BMW part # 21207573789) - $340
• Clutch alignment tool - $8
• Pivot pin brass - $18
• OE Luk flywheel (part # 21207533868) - $370
• New flywheel bolts (part # 11227519572) - $46

Intercooler
• 2.5in Pipe kit $72
• Intercooler $80
• Intercooler mounting materials - $20
• Extra 2.5in 90 elbow - $9

Fuel System
• Bosch 0280158123 630cc injectors - $250
• Injector spacers - $40
• Used B6 Audi S4 Bosch 1800kg/hr MAF - $35
• Deatschworks DW200 255lph fuel pump- $86

Exhaust
• Manifold ($140 including labor to machine it)
• VHT 2000F paint- $20
• Dump tube and downpipe starter fab + material - $140
• T304 stainless 3in V band clamps/flanges x 3 - $54
• 8FT 304 stainless 3in pipe - $60

Turbo
• Turbo - $300
• Rally road E46 turbo engine mount arm w FEBI 15786/274111 engine mount -$180
• Precision Turbo PW46 46mm Wastegate - $350
• TiAL-style (Tial BV50 replica) 50mm Blow Off Valve - $54
•-11lb spring for BOV - $15
•Genuine Tial O ring for BOV - $5

Air Intake for Turbo
• 4 in to 2.5 in 45 degree elbow/coupler - $10
• 2.5in inlet cone filter - $14

Gaskets/Misc
• Exhaust manifold gaskets (BMW part #11621728984)- $18
• Copper spray Permatex 80697 - $10
• M7 exhaust nuts part #11721437202- $10
• Engine/trans mounts - $45
• Spark plugs NGK BKR7E (set of 6) - $18

AEM Failsafe 30-4900 wideband/boost gauge- $300

Fabrication costs
• Oil pan modification labor- $100
• Fabrication labor for exhaust, charge piping, and air intake- $650

Total:
$4226 USD
 
Love the baffle plate as you know. Nowt wrong with these Chinese turbos a lot of people making a lot of power with them 👍

Great building hope you get yours built! A lot quicker than mine!!
 
Commando_Rob said:
Wow awesome build what power do you think it will make once complete?
I'm gonna aim for 350whp to start and work my way up from there :D

ph001 said:
Sweet. What solution for the mapping?
It's running on a factory E46 3 series ECU (Siemens MS43) tuned by me, with a modified engine harness from an E46 3 series . Had to add the coolant outlet temperature sensor wiring and ac compressor trigger wiring, as those are wired differently in the 3 series of the same vintage.
 
That looks like a great project. :thumbsup:

I'll be looking out for the updates.
 
Nice build.
Are you able to run the exhaust&intake piping without cutting up the aluminium chassis reinforcement plate (on the underside of the engine)?
 
GuidoK said:
Nice build.
Are you able to run the exhaust&intake piping without cutting up the aluminium chassis reinforcement plate (on the underside of the engine)?

I'm gonna have to either run it without the plate or make cuts/notches and possibly reweld the plate to fit around some things.
 
vbelsky said:
I'm gonna have to either run it without the plate or make cuts/notches and possibly reweld the plate to fit around some things.
make sure you keep the integrity of the plate.
It serves as a trampezium shaped frame that incorporates the front suspension subframe into a box section/cubical frame (so the boxsection goes from chassistub (where the plate is bolted on next to the lollypops) to subframe, to front chassisarms to tub/plate)
 
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