Trouble getting into gear?

FsXTimmix

Member
Hey Guys,

Does anyone ever find that it's difficult to get your E85 into gear when resting at lights? i'm having this problem and wondering if it is a known issue with these models?

Many thanks!
 
Mine seems very much the same, suspect it's just box design, better when warm so an oil change will probably help.
 
Mattwxkr said:
Mine seems very much the same, suspect it's just box design, better when warm so an oil change will probably help.

Hopefully it's nothing! But thanks for confirming its not just mine!
 
Yes it's a little bit of a feature. An oil change defo helped mine but didn't cure it. A shorter knob (oh-er!) also helps, have a search for ZHP.
You can do an oil change yourself, very easy if you can lift, about 1.6 litres of oil and 2 new plugs is about £30.
 
Mine was fine on it's original clutch & flywheel, but can be a pain after I got the new ones installed. Sometimes I can 'force' it into 1st, otherwise I have to go into 2nd/3rd and then into 1st.
 
Yeah "they all do that mate" one of the individual foibles of the car. On the plus point it stops her indoors wanting to drive it as it spooks her!
 
mmm-five said:
Mine was fine on it's original clutch & flywheel, but can be a pain after I got the new ones installed. Sometimes I can 'force' it into 1st, otherwise I have to go into 2nd/3rd and then into 1st.

This...sometimes it went in and most of time I quickly went into 2nd and then it went into 1st with ease.

An oil change definitely helped mine but did not cure it.

Removing the cdv could help I've read?
 
yer its common, i changed gearbox oil and diff oil. You wont get a instant better but it does improve, helps if the cars used daily too.

when the cars coming up to a stop put it in first then, no issues :)
 
The CDV removal will help with pulling away in first and the 1-2 change for sure. I'm not sure it will help getting the car into gear in the first place as its job is really to stop you dumping the clutch. So it's a glitch thing rather than affecting the gearbox itself. You should remove it anyway IMO :D
 
nightyard said:
mmm-five said:
Mine was fine on it's original clutch & flywheel, but can be a pain after I got the new ones installed. Sometimes I can 'force' it into 1st, otherwise I have to go into 2nd/3rd and then into 1st.

This...sometimes it went in and most of time I quickly went into 2nd and then it went into 1st with ease.

An oil change definitely helped mine but did not cure it.

Removing the cdv could help I've read?
My CDV has been removed, and I have the gearbox & diff fluids changed annually as I don't bother with Inspections 1s and just do an annual Inspection 2.

The only difference between mine being being fine (same clutch/flywheel as when I bought it on 9,300 miles) and now being 'dodgy' is the clutch/flywheel replacement at about 140,000 miles - so I think there must be some form of adjustment/alignment available to rectify it.
 
Bing said:
The CDV removal will help with pulling away in first and the 1-2 change for sure. I'm not sure it will help getting the car into gear in the first place as its job is really to stop you dumping the clutch. So it's a glitch thing rather than affecting the gearbox itself. You should remove it anyway IMO :D

CDV will make no difference in getting into gear, only effect when letting off the clutch.

But as Bing says good idea to remove anyway.
 
Wonder if it could be the dreaded Dual mass flywheel - only just found out mine has one and not happy about that as I thought it was the 3litre 6 speed that they were fitted on. Could possibly be the clutch which needs bleeding if there is a bit of air in the system.
 
Mike6 said:
Wonder if it could be the dreaded Dual mass flywheel - only just found out mine has one and not happy about that as I thought it was the 3litre 6 speed that they were fitted on. Could possibly be the clutch which needs bleeding if there is a bit of air in the system.

If it was air in the clutch/slave cylinder line it would cause problems with every shift & not just first gear Mike.
I think it's just the nature of the beast, mine feels a bit recalcitrant selecting first sometimes, especially before the car has warmed up properly.
Regards
 
I found this BMW Service Information Bulletin which seems to cover all possible causes,

BMW Service Information Bulletin Number 23 01 99
SUBJECT: Manual Transmission Difficult to Shift -
Diagnostic Tips MODEL: All with Manual Transmission
SITUATION: Transmission may be difficult to shift especially first gear engagement and/or gear shift linkage is binding.
Note: Field observations have indicated that a transmission which is difficult to shift (especially into first gear) is primarily a clutch related problem and only in isolated cases a failure in the transmission itself.
PROCEDURE: Verify the customer complaint: Note: Engage the parking brake and assure that no people or objects are in the vehicle's path.
- Run the engine at idle speed
- Press the clutch pedal to the floor
- From the neutral stick shift position engage first gear If first gear is difficult to engage, hold the stick shift at the resistance point (approximately half of the total stick shift travel) with constant force. Then switch the ignition off with the other hand.
DIAGNOSIS 1: If first gear now engages completely, i.e. the stick shift moves to the end position without any additional pressure applied, there is a problem in the clutch system. Explanation: Because the clutch does not uncouple completely, a residual torque is transmitted to the transmission input shaft when the engine is running. This inhibits the release and meshing of the sliding sleeve, in the transmission, at the end of the synchronization process. Turning the engine off relieves the input shaft of this torque thus simulating a completely uncoupled clutch.
DIAGNOSIS 2: If the stick shift remains at the resistance point, there is a problem in the external gear shift linkage or in the transmission.
CAUSE: DIAGNOSIS 1: Possible causes for a clutch problem as per Diagnosis 1 above are:
- Input shaft taper splines not lubricated properly/grease dried out.
- Clutch disc difficult to move on transmission input shaft.
- Clutch disc wobble.
- Air in the hydraulic system of clutch mechanism.
- Release bearing defective or difficult to move on the guide sleeve.
- Clutch disc or pressure plate broken/worn out.
DIAGNOSIS 2: Possible causes for gear shift linkage binding and/or internal transmission problems as per Diagnosis 2 above:
- External gearshift linkage binding (shift rod joints stiff).
- Stick shift bellows boot incorrectly installed (positioned too high or too low on the stick shift lever).
- Sound deadening between the outer gear shift linkage and the body incorrectly installed and/or distorted.
Possible causes inside of the transmission:
- Faulty synchronization.
- Internal gear shift linkage binding.
- Water in the transmission fluid.
 
Colin2+3 said:
I wonder if anyone can shed some light on a1st gear problem where it pops out of 1st gear ?

My zed suffered that in 2nd gear & it was knackered syncros, has it just started? :?
Rob
 
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