Tracking being done.
- Thread starter MikeyH
- Start date
Devon
Probably because every bolt is seized into the bushing, or the head shears off when you try and undo it.
Had three alignments on various cars, every time at least one bolt shears.
Had three alignments on various cars, every time at least one bolt shears.
Attleborough, Norfolk
Successful alignment? Could they get all the bolts free?
It's the first time I have had everything explained to me in detail, still don't understand it. He couldn't budge a bolt on the back that goes up into the bodywork (?) and as it was very close to speck decided to leave it as if it sheared it would be very costly to sort out. On the front he needed to use the blow torch twice. I only got charged for the front. 
When I asked him why is it so bad considering it has been done twice in the last 4.5 years he replied that BMW bolts are like that. I am now thinking that yet another garage has been taking the p*ss and not doing the work but charging for it. The same place that MOTed the car and told me one of the droplink rubbers was perished, it wasn't. Anyway it seems better now but I will take it out for drive later to confirm. 
When I asked him why is it so bad considering it has been done twice in the last 4.5 years he replied that BMW bolts are like that. I am now thinking that yet another garage has been taking the p*ss and not doing the work but charging for it. The same place that MOTed the car and told me one of the droplink rubbers was perished, it wasn't. Anyway it seems better now but I will take it out for drive later to confirm. 
Tncdrew
Member
Is your car an "M"?As above alignment being done. Lots of hammering and shouting
Maybe they’ll find where that bolt came from
Unfortunately not, a previous owner decided to buy some 224 wheels from somewhere in Germany, probably worth more than the rest of the car.
Norfolk probably.Maybe they’ll find where that bolt came from
For once that's paranoia. I've been doing my own tracking for years and even when I've copper greased the front tie rod adjusters and not over tightened them, I've had them seize solid. It's the design of having a threaded section with a cut down it that's then clamped down on the bolt part of the tie rod to stop it moving. Eventually the two halves cold weld together.
A bit of heat can help but garages will blast them red hot with oxy-acetalin and that rusts them stupid afterwards.
As for the back; my E85 seems in a worse state than my intergalactic E46 which is funny as it's the same setup.
FWIW, BMW use very good bolts but they're all 20+ years old now. Go and find a contemporary Jag and compare things. I had a 4 year old S-Type and its fasteners were rusting badly compared to the same age E46 that replaced it (they were like new.)
When I had my Z3 tracking done a couple of weeks ago, all the adjusting nuts came undone very easily, apparently.
It's a 25 year old car. I do wonder whether it's a lot to do with where and when cars are driven. Mine has virtually never been out in bad weather in those 25 years (you can tell by the rest of the car).
BTW the lad who did mine said they should be checked every year! I wonder how many cars have that?
It's a 25 year old car. I do wonder whether it's a lot to do with where and when cars are driven. Mine has virtually never been out in bad weather in those 25 years (you can tell by the rest of the car).
BTW the lad who did mine said they should be checked every year! I wonder how many cars have that?
Went out for a drive this afternoon and I would like to say "it feels like a completely different car". It doesn't. It's still the same car with a bloody awful ride, still rattles like there's a bag of old bones in the boot but yes, the steering has been transformed, still not brilliant but a darned site better than I have had to put up with for the last 4.5 years of my ownership.
Toe settings only bugger the handling up if they're egregiously wrong. Otherwise they just let you know by removing the inner or outer edge of the tyre tread!
I thought having an alignment done on my car would be a good idea, and it transformed the car.
But I had to have 2 new track rod ends as the originals were seized solid and it needed a new NSR outer ball-joint so the bill was over £500.
But I had to have 2 new track rod ends as the originals were seized solid and it needed a new NSR outer ball-joint so the bill was over £500.
Like smorris_12, I did my own wheel alignment after changing the front wishbones and inserting PU lolipop bushes. I could physically see the front wheels were toeing out considerably.
At first, lying on my back under the car, I almost gave up on trying to undo the solid trackrod lock nuts, but I persevered and used plenty of Plusgas. This is really amazing stuff and after about 20 mins of soaking, they came loose.
It is quite enjoyable trying to get the front alignment correct using an adjustable metal measuring rod between the rim inner edges (and an adjustable spanner and mole grips). It is like a puzzle that you have to crack. A bit time consuming though.
Essentially:
1. Get both wheel rims equidistant - mark the inner track rods with tippex and rotate them evenly in or out on both sides. Keep comparing the gap between the front of the rims and the rear of the rims with the adjustable bar.
2. Take it for a test drive down the middle of a straight road.
3. If the steering wheel is off-centre to the left, for example, then you need to move both front wheels equally slightly to the left.
4. Take it for a test drive
5. If the car pulls slightly left, for example, that means one of the wheels is pointing a little too far left, so try moving the front left wheel in a tad or the front right out a tad.
6. Repeat all the above until it's perfect and feel smug.
(This all assumes the rear end is about right.)
or take it to a tyre shop and listen to them hammering and swearing !
At first, lying on my back under the car, I almost gave up on trying to undo the solid trackrod lock nuts, but I persevered and used plenty of Plusgas. This is really amazing stuff and after about 20 mins of soaking, they came loose.
It is quite enjoyable trying to get the front alignment correct using an adjustable metal measuring rod between the rim inner edges (and an adjustable spanner and mole grips). It is like a puzzle that you have to crack. A bit time consuming though.
Essentially:
1. Get both wheel rims equidistant - mark the inner track rods with tippex and rotate them evenly in or out on both sides. Keep comparing the gap between the front of the rims and the rear of the rims with the adjustable bar.
2. Take it for a test drive down the middle of a straight road.
3. If the steering wheel is off-centre to the left, for example, then you need to move both front wheels equally slightly to the left.
4. Take it for a test drive
5. If the car pulls slightly left, for example, that means one of the wheels is pointing a little too far left, so try moving the front left wheel in a tad or the front right out a tad.
6. Repeat all the above until it's perfect and feel smug.
(This all assumes the rear end is about right.)
or take it to a tyre shop and listen to them hammering and swearing !
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Oooh, that's a new gizmo to me, might get one of those. I use two bits of fishing line and a ruler which does have the advantage of being able to do the rear as the fishing line has to be parallel to the centre line of the car.
Tncdrew
Member
Regardless, the wheels look great!Unfortunately not, a previous owner decided to buy some 224 wheels from somewhere in Germany, probably worth more than the rest of the car.
If only he had bought a set of genuine CSLs!Unfortunately not, a previous owner decided to buy some 224 wheels from somewhere in Germany, probably worth more than the rest of the car.
Good to know your car is driving better though.
Have you done the lollipop bushes at the front and the RTABs at the back? Even with 18s mine only moves about on the road because I'm dodging potholes. Other than that it tracks like an Exocet and changes direction like a housefly.