Torque setting - Strut Brace

Karlos123

Member
Hi All,

I have searched high and low for the torque settings for the strut brace that goes from the strut tower to the firewall, some quote 34nm some I have seen are 41nm and another was 52nm. So I wondered if someone would be kind enough to provide some clarity.

My car is a 2008 facelift, and I read that the torque settings for the facelift is different to the -2006 models.

I have had one of the strut braces off and want to make sure it's torqued correctly.


Thanks all.

Karl
 

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41Nm for the nuts according to NewTIS.

It also says the struts can be secured with screws, which require a different torque (and torque angle) but I have never seen this set-up.
 
Zedebee said:
41Nm for the nuts according to NewTIS.

It also says the struts can be secured with screws, which require a different torque (and torque angle) but I have never seen this set-up.

Zedebee, thanks so much for that! i have just notice that the car in my initial post (which wasn't mine) has nuts, whereas mine has 2 bolts on each strut, sorry... the photo is misleading. Talk about confusing things! here is a photo of mine, I didn't realise some had nuts and some had bolts.

My car................. with bolts
 

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Ah, in that case you need a Torque angle measuring dial (according to NewTIS, I’ve never used one).

You are supposed to replace the screws/bolts, tighten to specified torque and then to angle of rotation.
56 Nm. Angle of rotation 105 ±15 °.

I hope that makes sense to you, I don’t really understand the torque angle malarkey.
 
Zedebee said:
Ah, in that case you need a Torque angle measuring dial (according to NewTIS, I’ve never used one).

You are supposed to replace the screws/bolts, tighten to specified torque and then to angle of rotation.
56 Nm. Angle of rotation 105 ±15 °.

I hope that makes sense to you, I don’t really understand the torque angle malarkey.

You are a legend, thankyou. I have no idea what a 'angle of rotation is either !! :P but I will look it up, I will replace the bolts, nothing is straight forward hey .. ha ha, just thought it was a case of nipping them up, but hey ho, thanks for your help Zedebee, I have been all over the web this morning trying to suss it out. :thumbsup:
 
Zedebee said:
but I have never seen this set-up.
The later cars and M's had the new HD brackets with the bolts. If your attach bracket ever cracks you will have to replace it with the new HD version that uses bolts (ask me how I know.....).
 
There's a lot of talk on here about torgue settings, when I was a lad my MGs only ever had things like head bolts torqued down, everything else, even the wheels, was done as enuff_zed said. Nothing ever fell off, or was I just lucky. :driving:
 
MikeyH said:
There's a lot of talk on here about torgue settings, when I was a lad my MGs only ever had things like head bolts torqued down, everything else, even the wheels, was done as enuff_zed said. Nothing ever fell off, or was I just lucky. :driving:
Tbf, people just learning should use torque settings: even though the chances of their torque wrenches being accurate are pretty slim unless they calibrate them before every use. How many people remember to wind them right off before they put them away.
My answer was a flippant one, based on many years of spannering and developing a ‘feel’ for things. Another reason there is no impact wrench in my tool kit.
 
enuff_zed said:
Tbf, people just learning should use torque settings: even though the chances of their torque wrenches being accurate are pretty slim unless they calibrate them before every use. How many people remember to wind them right off before they put them away.
My answer was a flippant one, based on many years of spannering and developing a ‘feel’ for things. Another reason there is no impact wrench in my tool kit.

The 'feel' is the one to go for, it takes time but after many many years you do get it.

If you don't get the 'feel' do it up until it goes lose and back it off half a turn!
 
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