Tool hire for VANOS replacement

Dr. Zed said:
bigwinn said:
Deffo consider doing the water pump and thermostat at the same time- not a horrid job

If you want a write up I’ll happily do one?

If you don't mind doing one for it. Might even end up being a sticky on the forum.
I had a quick look on YouTube for the location of the water pump which showed the pump and thermostat location. Seems the work is easier than the price of the parts would suggest.
If you happen to do a write up when you're doing it yourself then yes please mate. Sling me a PM if/when you do it although I will likely see the thread anyways.

No bother

I’ll do one tonight if ok
 
Rockhopper said:
You can buy one for £24

https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/TOJWMTWSV2/jobsworth-pro-torque-wrench-set?gclid=CjwKCAjwmK6IBhBqEiwAocMc8i1WL8uF3K4u3liuvo6u7_dKot39SFwsd1eSb43aVGaeNO7z85IUUBoCyY8QAvD_BwE#TOJWMTWSV2
I have this one, seems decent enough
 
bigwinn said:
Dr. Zed said:
bigwinn said:
Deffo consider doing the water pump and thermostat at the same time- not a horrid job

If you want a write up I’ll happily do one?

If you don't mind doing one for it. Might even end up being a sticky on the forum.
I had a quick look on YouTube for the location of the water pump which showed the pump and thermostat location. Seems the work is easier than the price of the parts would suggest.
If you happen to do a write up when you're doing it yourself then yes please mate. Sling me a PM if/when you do it although I will likely see the thread anyways.

No bother

I’ll do one tonight if ok

So this is my take on water pump and thermostat replacement. Others will have different routes/techniques etc. If you do this as part of VANOS it will be easier as you'll be replacing/removing the front of the engine stuff...

Deffo consider replacing your expansion tank while the system is drained!

Best video how to here: https://youtu.be/YKphkCyEccs

Get the front of the car up- suggest ramps
Remove front slam panel- plastic rivets and T27x2
Remove fan/shroud: LHS there is a T30 screw and RHS a pop rivet- undo the 2 electrical connectors (worth checking the green wire on the main connector on the left) and lift the fan out.
You can remove the air box- not totally necessary but gives more room
The pulley housing on the water pump- before you take the belts off, loosen but don't remove the 10mm (x4) bolts
Remove the 2 aux belts- AC and aux. Before you take them off draw a diagram- will help you put them back on! AC first: on the idler there is a round cover- pop it off. Insert a Torx or socket for the size, turn against the tension and pop the belt off. On the aux- same principle pop the cover off on the idler and (IIRC) insert a T50 into the tensioner, again hold against the tension and pop the belt off.
Take the pulley off the water pump. Undo the 4 bolts on the water pump. Use threaded bolts as per the video to drive the pump away from the face of the block- you'll now be getting wet! BUT you cant get the water pump out yet because of that wonderful cross member.
Next do the thermostat- undo the hoses, undo the bolts and away- v simple
The video is worth watching now- undo the N/S engine bolt (16mm) and jack the engine block up using a jack and wooden block. Clear the threaded part of the engine mount by approx 1" and you should now have clearance to get the old pump out. Refitting is the reverse!

I was dubious and frankly worried about the procedure- however now I've done it 3 times its a breeze- one of the more complex but worthwhile jobs!

Drop me a line for more info or if you get stuck!

Cheers

Stuart
 
Good write up from Stuart.
As he says, the belts are coming off anyway, hence my addition to your list of new belts.
Only difference I would suggest is that if you are doing the Vanos at the same time, it is beneficial to undo the offside engine mount instead, as that allows a bit of wiggle room for removing the Vanos and lining it all up again when you put it back together. I found it so much easier to lift the engine so I could see more clearly into the recesses, especially for fitting the tiddly screws and the covering caps.
All will become clear once you get the fan off and eye it all up.
I think I left the thermostat refit until last, to give maximum room for the Vanos work.

Main thing is, don't need the car for a day or two afterwards, so you can take your time and shout for help if you need it.
 
bigwinn said:
So this is my take on water pump and thermostat replacement. Others will have different routes/techniques etc. If you do this as part of VANOS it will be easier as you'll be replacing/removing the front of the engine stuff...

Deffo consider replacing your expansion tank while the system is drained!

Best video how to here: https://youtu.be/YKphkCyEccs

Get the front of the car up- suggest ramps
Remove front slam panel- plastic rivets and T27x2
Remove fan/shroud: LHS there is a T30 screw and RHS a pop rivet- undo the 2 electrical connectors (worth checking the green wire on the main connector on the left) and lift the fan out.
You can remove the air box- not totally necessary but gives more room
The pulley housing on the water pump- before you take the belts off, loosen but don't remove the 10mm (x4) bolts
Remove the 2 aux belts- AC and aux. Before you take them off draw a diagram- will help you put them back on! AC first: on the idler there is a round cover- pop it off. Insert a Torx or socket for the size, turn against the tension and pop the belt off. On the aux- same principle pop the cover off on the idler and (IIRC) insert a T50 into the tensioner, again hold against the tension and pop the belt off.
Take the pulley off the water pump. Undo the 4 bolts on the water pump. Use threaded bolts as per the video to drive the pump away from the face of the block- you'll now be getting wet! BUT you cant get the water pump out yet because of that wonderful cross member.
Next do the thermostat- undo the hoses, undo the bolts and away- v simple
The video is worth watching now- undo the N/S engine bolt (16mm) and jack the engine block up using a jack and wooden block. Clear the threaded part of the engine mount by approx 1" and you should now have clearance to get the old pump out. Refitting is the reverse!

I was dubious and frankly worried about the procedure- however now I've done it 3 times its a breeze- one of the more complex but worthwhile jobs!

Drop me a line for more info or if you get stuck!

Cheers

Stuart

Thanks Stuart! Sorry for the delay in replying. Was in Holland till yesterday night.
Really appreciate the write up. I'll be sure to give you feedback once I do the work mate :).

EDIT: (Looking for more info) I notice that you mention that the system will be drained. I take it the system will be drained from doing the water pump and therefore it's a good time to replace the coolant too?

As for the belts, can you indicate which ones I need new ones for and what brand I'm looking for?
 
Dr. Zed said:
As for the belts, can you indicate which ones I need new ones for and what brand I'm looking for?
I got these:

Big serpentine belt
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B005HFM4KM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A/C drive belt
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B079YTNT1L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
Dr. Zed said:
bigwinn said:
So this is my take on water pump and thermostat replacement. Others will have different routes/techniques etc. If you do this as part of VANOS it will be easier as you'll be replacing/removing the front of the engine stuff...

Deffo consider replacing your expansion tank while the system is drained!

Best video how to here: https://youtu.be/YKphkCyEccs

Get the front of the car up- suggest ramps
Remove front slam panel- plastic rivets and T27x2
Remove fan/shroud: LHS there is a T30 screw and RHS a pop rivet- undo the 2 electrical connectors (worth checking the green wire on the main connector on the left) and lift the fan out.
You can remove the air box- not totally necessary but gives more room
The pulley housing on the water pump- before you take the belts off, loosen but don't remove the 10mm (x4) bolts
Remove the 2 aux belts- AC and aux. Before you take them off draw a diagram- will help you put them back on! AC first: on the idler there is a round cover- pop it off. Insert a Torx or socket for the size, turn against the tension and pop the belt off. On the aux- same principle pop the cover off on the idler and (IIRC) insert a T50 into the tensioner, again hold against the tension and pop the belt off.
Take the pulley off the water pump. Undo the 4 bolts on the water pump. Use threaded bolts as per the video to drive the pump away from the face of the block- you'll now be getting wet! BUT you cant get the water pump out yet because of that wonderful cross member.
Next do the thermostat- undo the hoses, undo the bolts and away- v simple
The video is worth watching now- undo the N/S engine bolt (16mm) and jack the engine block up using a jack and wooden block. Clear the threaded part of the engine mount by approx 1" and you should now have clearance to get the old pump out. Refitting is the reverse!

I was dubious and frankly worried about the procedure- however now I've done it 3 times its a breeze- one of the more complex but worthwhile jobs!

Drop me a line for more info or if you get stuck!

Cheers

Stuart

Thanks Stuart! Sorry for the delay in replying. Was in Holland till yesterday night.
Really appreciate the write up. I'll be sure to give you feedback once I do the work mate :).

EDIT: (Looking for more info) I notice that you mention that the system will be drained. I take it the system will be drained from doing the water pump and therefore it's a good time to replace the coolant too?

As for the belts, can you indicate which ones I need new ones for and what brand I'm looking for?

100% an opportunity to change the coolant

Belts as per what Martin says

When you thinking of doing it?
 
bigwinn said:
Dr. Zed said:
Hi all,

So I was speaking with someone a few days ago when I was discussing doing some work on the VANOS and when I mentioned that I needed a torque wrench that goes down to single digits they suggested I look at hiring any of the tools that I don't have.

He said that he's heard of companies that act as tool 'libraries' where you check out the tool and then return it.

Has anyone else heard of this (I certainly never have), and if so would it be better than simply buying the tools I need?

I had a read through the VANOS instructions and I think I have all the tools except torque wrenches since stuff needs to be torqued to 30 or 40 (can't remember) and also as low as 7Nm or something.

Any input is appreciated!

Where are you based?

Reason for asking is that in September I’m meeting a forum member to help/do his vanos and associated stuff like water pump at the z-shed facility near Lincoln?

Stuart

This is T-Tony's garage, He's over on the zorg forum mostyl. There's quite a few garages all over the UK that call themselves Zshed and offer to help forum members. We've done two vanos's over the last couple of weeks, really not difficult.
 
enuff_zed said:
I got these:

Big serpentine belt
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B005HFM4KM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A/C drive belt
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B079YTNT1L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks! Spent the weekend carbon wrapping the interior so need to get this all done before the summer disappears fully!
 
bigwinn said:
When you thinking of doing it?

Not sure yet. My mate is helping me as we're thinking of making a day of it so whenever he's free really. I also need his drive. I have communal parking at my apartment. I do some work here but wouldn't feel it's appropriate to be doing something as involved as VANOS there. I'm hoping that he'll be free at some point in September and not extend it into October!
 
Joycey said:
This is T-Tony's garage, He's over on the zorg forum mostyl. There's quite a few garages all over the UK that call themselves Zshed and offer to help forum members. We've done two vanos's over the last couple of weeks, really not difficult.

Be handy if there was one closer to me in Swindon...
 
Dr. Zed said:
enuff_zed said:
I got these:

Big serpentine belt
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B005HFM4KM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A/C drive belt
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B079YTNT1L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks! Spent the weekend carbon wrapping the interior so need to get this all done before the summer disappears fully!
Slightly off topic, but did you wrap the steering wheel spokes? If so, how easy was it? The 2.2i I picked up has a basic wheel and the spokes are chipped. Wondering if a wrap would be the easiest solution?
 
Dr. Zed said:
bigwinn said:
When you thinking of doing it?

Not sure yet. My mate is helping me as we're thinking of making a day of it so whenever he's free really. I also need his drive. I have communal parking at my apartment. I do some work here but wouldn't feel it's appropriate to be doing something as involved as VANOS there. I'm hoping that he'll be free at some point in September and not extend it into October!

I'm doing my 05 plate this weekend so will post up any common points/watchouts- purely as the weather is on the turn and I dont fancy doing it in the rain!
 
enuff_zed said:
Slightly off topic, but did you wrap the steering wheel spokes? If so, how easy was it? The 2.2i I picked up has a basic wheel and the spokes are chipped. Wondering if a wrap would be the easiest solution?

Not yet. I'm planning on spraying them mind not wrapping them. I've wrapped the dash and centre console. Currently going around spraying everything else black.
I wouldn't imagine the steering wheel trims would be that hard (especially after doing the dash etc) but personally not sure it'd hold up with the constant handling.
If you're looking for covering the blemishes etc then I'd recommend just plastidipping it. I've done my spoiler and kidney grilles and the bits inside the centre console and stuff is amazing.
 
bigwinn said:
I'm doing my 05 plate this weekend so will post up any common points/watchouts- purely as the weather is on the turn and I dont fancy doing it in the rain!

This is my thinking too. I'm just hoping we can catch a decent weekend. Maybe this weekend it being a bank holiday and all
 
Dr. Zed said:
bigwinn said:
I'm doing my 05 plate this weekend so will post up any common points/watchouts- purely as the weather is on the turn and I dont fancy doing it in the rain!

This is my thinking too. I'm just hoping we can catch a decent weekend. Maybe this weekend it being a bank holiday and all
Grab all your stuff and head to Lincoln!
Stuart keeps going on about his '4-car drive'. You could do them both side-by-side. :thumbsup:
 
Beginning to think it might be worth getting this done on mine watching this thread, just ticked over 82k recently. Car still pulls nicely, engine has always felt strong since I bought it on 70k ish, but I guess as others have said with nothing to compare to it would be difficult to tell if there was a problem... not sure I'm brave enough to attempt it on the driveway!
 
JamesClements said:
Beginning to think it might be worth getting this done on mine watching this thread, just ticked over 82k recently. Car still pulls nicely, engine has always felt strong since I bought it on 70k ish, but I guess as others have said with nothing to compare to it would be difficult to tell if there was a problem... not sure I'm brave enough to attempt it on the driveway!
Still one space left on Stuart's. :poke:

(He's going to love me for this. :D )
 
enuff_zed said:
JamesClements said:
Beginning to think it might be worth getting this done on mine watching this thread, just ticked over 82k recently. Car still pulls nicely, engine has always felt strong since I bought it on 70k ish, but I guess as others have said with nothing to compare to it would be difficult to tell if there was a problem... not sure I'm brave enough to attempt it on the driveway!
Still one space left on Stuart's. :poke:

(He's going to love me for this. :D )

:rofl: :rofl: sounds like he's got enough zeds on his drive already (mind you there are worse problems to have!) Might attempt it over the winter when she's all tucked up anyway
 
JamesClements said:
Beginning to think it might be worth getting this done on mine watching this thread, just ticked over 82k recently. Car still pulls nicely, engine has always felt strong since I bought it on 70k ish, but I guess as others have said with nothing to compare to it would be difficult to tell if there was a problem... not sure I'm brave enough to attempt it on the driveway!

James I am a total advocate of doing it:

1) you'll not notice the degradation over time, but when sorted its amazing the difference
2) your car ALWAYS drives better when you've done work to it, its an unwritten law!!!

Seriously its not hard to do if you are fairly competent with spanners- but happy to help in any way
 
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