To Eibach or not to Eibach? Advice appreciated

[ben84]

Hi guys

Just had an mot failure for single front and rear broken springs plus anti roll bar links need replacing.

After some advice as to whether to re fit standard components or use this as an opportunity to upgrade.

Wouldn't mind a slight height drop but don't want to compromise the ride or ability to get over speed bumps!

I am also running 20mm spacers on the rear and 15mm on the front if that will contribute to any issues!

2004 E85 3.0

Thanks for your help in advance, ben

 

[Steve84N]

It goes over speed bumps no problem but is harsher than standard.

 

[idej_z4]

You'll be fine with Eibachs - I've had no issues with speed bumps. The only issue I've had is with arch rub...but my front alloys were 8J (and 8.5J is the better fit).

On the plus side I did notice the handling was improved. Not hugely, but enough for me to raise an eyebrow + it looks cooler lowered as well.

 

[mr wilks]

Could be worth a read for you Op https://www.tirerack.com/suspension/tests/eibach_hr_rd.jsp

 

[ben84]

Thanks for your input guys, think I am going to go with the eibachs, £143 including delivery so pretty reasonable. FK's are a fair bit cheaper at £89 but im guessing there is a reason for that.

 

[ph001]

You will be happy with the Eibachs I think. I don't find them crashy at all.

 

[hopz121]

You may need new shocks OP too so check them at the same time.

If you do id recommend going for Bilstein B8 shocks

 

[Steve84N]

The only issue I've had is with arch rub...but my front alloys were 8J (and 8.5J is the better fit).

Is that a typo?

8J fits better on the whole in the front but the real issue is offset. You need a higher offset on an 8.5 to avoid rubbing than you do on an 8.

 

[Chris1981]

Lowered springs all the way for me... they supposedly don't have the same tenancy to crack as OEM springs do, combined with improved look and handling!

I fitted H&R springs on mine which I believe are slightly lower than the Eibachs.... I won't lie it is pretty damn low and i do have to take speed bumps with care but totally manageable and the improvement in handling was instant!

As already mentioned it would be highly recommended to change the shocks if lowering, I bought just springs and found out the drivers side rear shock was completely blown so have since upgraded to Bilstein B6's... in hindsight buying the complete B12 kit (eibachs and B8 shocks) would have been the most cost effective but was too eager to lower mine as the moron who owned it before me had SE springs on the rear and M-Sports on the front but I didn't have the £700 a complete kit costs so have done it piece meal over the past few months! :headbang:

Bilstein B6's or B8's have improved damping rate to suit the lower firmer springs! B8's are shorter so ideal for lowered cars, but B6's have the same characteristics as B8 without being shorter so will allow for the car to be returned to standard height at a later date should you wish!?

 

[idej_z4]

The only issue I've had is with arch rub...but my front alloys were 8J (and 8.5J is the better fit).

Is that a typo?

8J fits better on the whole in the front but the real issue is offset. You need a higher offset on an 8.5 to avoid rubbing than you do on an 8.

I would have to check the offsets to be 100% sure.

 

[ben g]

The only issue I've had is with arch rub...but my front alloys were 8J (and 8.5J is the better fit).

Is that a typo?

8J fits better on the whole in the front but the real issue is offset. You need a higher offset on an 8.5 to avoid rubbing than you do on an 8.

I would have to check the offsets to be 100% sure.

The offset is the ET number of the wheel. 8j/8.5j refers to the width of the alloy. 1J is 1 inch. I think you're getting them confused.

 

[mr wilks]

Is that a typo?

8J fits better on the whole in the front but the real issue is offset. You need a higher offset on an 8.5 to avoid rubbing than you do on an 8.

I would have to check the offsets to be 100% sure.

The offset is the ET number of the wheel. 8j/8.5j refers to the width of the alloy. 1J is 1 inch. I think you're getting them confused.

Dan's (idej_jedi) problem iirc was also he initially had 235 35 19 tyres on a 8j rim with low offset (et35ish ?? ) & lowered .
Problem cured with 215 35 19 rubber on the 8js & again now on 8.5js with slightly higher offsets

 

[idej_z4]

Is that a typo?

8J fits better on the whole in the front but the real issue is offset. You need a higher offset on an 8.5 to avoid rubbing than you do on an 8.

I would have to check the offsets to be 100% sure.

The offset is the ET number of the wheel. 8j/8.5j refers to the width of the alloy. 1J is 1 inch. I think you're getting them confused.

I know what the J is...

 

[ben g]

I would have to check the offsets to be 100% sure.

The offset is the ET number of the wheel. 8j/8.5j refers to the width of the alloy. 1J is 1 inch. I think you're getting them confused.

I know what the J is...

Your previous reply insinuated you didn't, that's all. Now mr wilks has explained it, it makes sense now calm down :lol:

 

[dhobbs]

I have the b12 kit and I do find them crashy compared to standard. The lowered look I like and the handling is so much better (but then my shocks were knackered).

 

[idej_z4]

The offset is the ET number of the wheel. 8j/8.5j refers to the width of the alloy. 1J is 1 inch. I think you're getting them confused.

I know what the J is...

Your previous reply insinuated you didn't, that's all. Now mr wilks has explained it, it makes sense now calm down :lol:

Not sure why you’re saying calm down, but glad it’s all been cleared up. I probably need to understand offsets a bit more.

 

[Mr Tidy]

I probably need to understand offsets a bit more.

So do I!

I think I am starting to get the hang of it - it is ET, or IS in BMW terms (that is how they stamp it on their wheels) !

Standard wheels on a 3.0 E86 had an ET of 47 on the front and 50 on the rear.

Now I'm heading into conjecture, but I believe ET is the distance in mm from the hub-face to the centre-line of the rim so in simple terms a lower number ET sits further out in the wheel-arch.

Hopefully someone can put us both right, or wrong!

(Ready to get me coat). :lol:

 

[ben84]

Lots of great advice, thanks so much guys, will look at shocks and see what I can find. Also any suggestions on uprated anti roll bar links, cant seem to find any online or will the OEM ones be sufficient?

 

[Steve84N]

Just use OEM, very cheap and perfectly adequate.

Aftermarket are expensive and only really needed where you're lowered a lot.

 

[Rassi]

I have the b12 kit and I do find them crashy compared to standard. The lowered look I like and the handling is so much better (but then my shocks were knackered).

That is interesting. I went from 17" runflat and a 120.000 km SE suspension to 18" non-runflat and Bilstein B12 and found that the ride was a lot better.