Time for a new car. Z4 to Z4m?

M

mrMambo

Member
 Harrogate
Ive owned my roadster now for nearly 2 years, its just hovering under the 100k mark now so im looking for a new toy.
I can now get a proper engine on insurance :driving:

now before you tell me its a stupid question :P and of course i should buy an M(roadster), my friend is selling 2003 a low milage sl55 amg in black
and a nissan GTR (completly stock, old lady owner, no boy racers) in gunmetal grey.

so i have 3 of my childhood dream cars almost at my fingertips and i dont know what to choose! :poke:

i have a budget of about £12,000 so i know im looking at an older/ high milage M, but dont worry im not scared :thumbsup:


so i was hopeing you guys could tell me the realistic cost of running an M as a day to day car?
if theres anything i need to look out for when buying an M?
19's or 18's?
And most importantly, what are the seats like at high speed?? unfortunately i cant approach corners in the usual way on a test drive


i am aware the M badge brings heavy price on parts but my brother is a mechanic so work = cost price + pints

heres a picture of mine at the moment: 2003/ 2.5/ aerokit/ 225's/ bilestein sport shocks/ eibach pro

1452235_10151987538936287_305568423_n.jpg


and of course if anyone has done the transfer from a 2.5 to the M info would be appreciated, thank you
 
I went from a 2.5 to an M, however I did have a TT and a MK5 Golf TDi in between.

I loved the Z4 and was sorry to see it go (relationship breakdown) however the m is on a different level. It feels special and as soon as you touch the accelerator you know your not in the 2.5 anymore.

In terms of cost, inspection 2 is a expensive, brakes are costly and RFL is an annual kick in the balls. But it's worth it :)
 
At the risk of getting shot lol, I would be tempted by a Vauxhall :-)

http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201310149279864/sort/default/usedcars/engine-size-cars/5lplus/make/vauxhall/onesearchad/used/onesearchad/nearlynew/onesearchad/new/postcode/ca48qq/radius/1500/page/1?logcode=p
 
What sort of mileage would you be looking at? Let's assume 12-15k per annum

Running costs I'm averaging 24 mpg in the ///M (although on normal commutes you'd probably average 25-26).

You'd be looking potentially at one service per year. Allow £200 for an oil service and £600-1000 for the Inspections.

Tax is £495

Tyres you'd probably need to replace once every 2 years at £700-1000 per set.

Brakes approximately every 40k miles. £500 per set (front discs and pads, rears slightly cheaper)

I'm running mine on approximately 4k mileage per annum, so not a daily. But excluding petrol, I put aside £180 per month to cover all costs, this includes building a small "rainy day" pot should I need any repairs etc. (so far so lucky though). When I did my sums for a daily I figured that £250pcm would cover all running costs (excl petrol).
 
My car is a daily but only cover 12 miles a day and maybe a blast out over weekend.. I generally put in £20 of fuel a week.Consumables are low cost at my mileage.
Insurance is very reasonable at £330ish with protected NCD and 8 years NCD.

On a quick calculation tax, insurance and fuel comes to 2k a year,then service and and other bits and bobs.

Z Roadies are great, but the M in either body shape is a totally different thing in driving experience.

What do you mean about the seats ??
 
What GTR are they selling, R33?

I really wanted an SL55 but the running costs for when it goes wrong are ruinous; very complicated machines.

I had a 3.0 Z4 and don't regret getting the M. It's a good 50% more costly to run at a guess but the traction, power and steering feel is much improved. Buy wisely and one which is not approaching an inspection 2 service soon (£1k...)
 
Mate 12k is slim pickings for an M, and if your looking at a high milage one, be prepared to dish out a few k on repairs/maint. Anything over about 80k most bushes /shocks/springs would be shot, 100k wheel bearings due (fronts easy, rear ipita) and that's not even talking bout the drive line/trans/eng mounts bushes..

That said, they are a joy to drive.

Good luck with your search/decision : )
 
The ///M is reasonable to run for its performance IMO. Brilliant car.

Mine was lowered before I bought it, on the H&Rs the 18s give pretty much exactly the same ride as the 19s, Mich PS2s on the 18s and Vred Ultracs Sessantas on the 19s. They have been set up differently tho there is a fair amount of camber on both front and rear. Handles really well and love being out in it.

I have had 23.6 average mpg but on normal runs I see 27mpg. On long runs 33mpg.

Last oil and brake fluid service was £300

Inspection II was £750

Insurance this year I'm 25 with 4ync 3 points 7k a year garages and was quoted £530 for the 20th Nov

Tyres good set of Vreds on my CSLs were £690 less than £500 for the 18s

Tax £500 can't get away from it, its double but in hindsight £250 more a year isn't ridiculous and works out £10 a week.

12k is a bit slim, but If you add 2k to your budget you will get a very nice example.

Good luck! :thumbsup:
 
StevenH72 said:
What sort of mileage would you be looking at? Let's assume 12-15k per annum

Running costs I'm averaging 24 mpg in the ///M (although on normal commutes you'd probably average 25-26).

You'd be looking potentially at one service per year. Allow £200 for an oil service and £600-1000 for the Inspections.

Tax is £495

Tyres you'd probably need to replace once every 2 years at £700-1000 per set.

Brakes approximately every 40k miles. £500 per set (front discs and pads, rears slightly cheaper)

I'm running mine on approximately 4k mileage per annum, so not a daily. But excluding petrol, I put aside £180 per month to cover all costs, this includes building a small "rainy day" pot should I need any repairs etc. (so far so lucky though). When I did my sums for a daily I figured that £250pcm would cover all running costs (excl petrol).
Click to expand...
12-15000 miles a year and replace tyres every 2 years- what planet are you on,or should I ask what tyres are you using?
 
tomscott said:
The ///M is reasonable to run for its performance IMO. Brilliant car.

Mine was lowered before I bought it, on the H&Rs the 18s give pretty much exactly the same ride as the 19s, Mich PS2s on the 18s and Vred Ultracs Sessantas on the 19s. They have been set up differently tho there is a fair amount of camber on both front and rear. Handles really well and love being out in it.

I have had 23.6 average mpg but on normal runs I see 27mpg. On long runs 33mpg.

Last oil and brake fluid service was £300

Inspection II was £750

Insurance this year I'm 25 with 4ync 3 points 7k a year garages and was quoted £530 for the 20th Nov

Tyres good set of Vreds on my CSLs were £690 less than £500 for the 18s

Tax £500 can't get away from it, its double but in hindsight £250 more a year isn't ridiculous and works out £10 a week.

12k is a bit slim, but If you add 2k to your budget you will get a very nice example.

Good luck! :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Pretty much this to be honest.

I purchased an AUC car for £15.5k with two years warranty that had 32k miles on. Just had an oil service, new discs all round, years tax and new rear tyres. In 16 months all i have spent on running costs is Insurance (first year £600, this year £460 with 6 points), £500 tax and petrol in 8k miles. So the additional price has offset the running costs whilst the car has had full warranty (used for a cracked break light, paint defect on the door and a cup holderso far).

Im due an Inspection II in about 3k-4k miles which will be between £700 -£900 at BMW to maintain my warranty otherwise £500-£650 is possible. The servicing costs based on 8k miles per year works out at around £350-£400 per year

If you buy a car that requires discs, tyres and tax in the near future or immediately it is a false economy as the extra out lay is better spent on a lower mileage car and you will recoup some of the outlay come resale time. If i sold my car now im pretty sure i'd get approximately £14k with 9 months warranty (my friend keps asking me) which means i'd have lost £1k in depreciation within a year (£1.5k - £500 tax).

If i keep my car three years i reckon costs will be as follows:

£15.5k purchase price (including two years warranty and first years tax)

£500 per annum insurance (x3)
£500 per annum tax (x2)
£400 per annum Servicing (based on 8k)
£800 tyres
Extra years warranty £800

or £1750ish a year + approx £1500 depreciation (assuming £11k sale price) so £270 a month including depreciation for a fully warrantied and maintained M car which isn't bad at all.....my advice buy one :D

Obviously this could be done slighlty cheaper without warranty, etc, etc but then there is a risk of issues arising and so forth...
 
Forgot to mention… FR08MEE reminded me

Most BMW dealers will be willing to add a 2yr warranty for free. I also managed to get this.

Took the Full BMW insured extended warranty at 57k its £80 a month with a £100 excess. 3 days after I took this out one of my xenons went. New control unit and the labour would have been the best part of £800!! So worth getting the warranty! Mine nearly paid for itself in one claim.

With the worry of engine mounts and engine bearings etc its def worth getting. Especially if the car is over 80k because problems will start there although there are a lot of cases of cars having problems as little as 20k. Depends how its been treated.

BTW the argument with tyre wear they will eat tyres if you want them too… depends how you drive. Ive done 6.5k on my vreds and have 6mm all round with mostly spirited driving. All part of the fun :thumbsup:
 
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