tick tick tick please help...!

TomK said:
pHilli0 said:
Good advice, thanks. I have been looking at other people across google with similar noises and you appear to be spot on, a couple of guys saying they had cam / follower issues and needed replacements. I don't have any plan to sell the car so and actually want to get it more track focused, so if i have to spend 2/3k to get this fixed then so be it. Far from ideal but such is life!!
Perfect excuse then to put Schrick csl cams then if you're keeping it and remap it. They work out a little bit less than oem items as it goes. if you're going to all that trouble I'd have a look at the rod bearings as they're a known failure point and mine were showing signs of wear when upgrading my cams, you could also uprate the rod bolts. I think big end bearings were replaced also as was the head gasket during my overhaul as precautionary measures. Engine was on 55k

That does make a lot of sense, I guess I would be looking at 15 hp for the Schrick cam and 15 for the remap? Any recommendation on where to have it done? I have an indy in Stevenage who has a lot of experience with M3s. But if that doesn't work out someone has recommended Phil @ CSC Amersham,..you sound like you would do it yourself but sadly that's not an option for me.
 
If you need cams and followers then the cheapest option would be Shrick followers and second hand M3 camshafts. I don't know how much that would set you back but certainly less than new OEM or Shrick camshafts. A large proportion of the cost will be labour, most especially if the cams need swapping.
As Tom has said, it might be a good idea to drop the bottom of the engine and replace the bearing shells at the same time. I replaced mine, the vanos bolts and head gasket at 50K miles after hearing too many scare stories. Of note, my bearing shells were immaculate and my vanos bolts were fine too.
 
BMWZ4MC said:
If you need cams and followers then the cheapest option would be Shrick followers and second hand M3 camshafts. I don't know how much that would set you back but certainly less than new OEM or Shrick camshafts. A large proportion of the cost will be labour, most especially if the cams need swapping.
As Tom has said, it might be a good idea to drop the bottom of the engine and replace the bearing shells at the same time. I replaced mine, the vanos bolts and head gasket at 50K miles after hearing too many scare stories. Of note, my bearing shells were immaculate and my vanos bolts were fine too.

Yea I'm guessing 10 hours labour for cams and followers swap. This looks relevant...

http://forums.m3cutters.co.uk/showthread.php?t=89766

with these parts..

http://www.ca-int.co.uk/variants-Y2FyX21ha2U9Ym13JmNhcl90eXBlPWU0Nm0mcGFyZW50X2lkPTE1NzE=.html

http://www.ca-int.co.uk/single_prod-cHJvZF9pZD0yNDM0JmNhcl9tYWtlPWJtdyZjYXJfdHlwZT1lNDZtJmNhdF9pZD02JmNvbXBfaWQ9MTk=.html

So around 1,800 for parts plus labour at 500, around 2,300 to 2,500
 
pHilli0 said:
BMWZ4MC said:
If you need cams and followers then the cheapest option would be Shrick followers and second hand M3 camshafts. I don't know how much that would set you back but certainly less than new OEM or Shrick camshafts. A large proportion of the cost will be labour, most especially if the cams need swapping.
As Tom has said, it might be a good idea to drop the bottom of the engine and replace the bearing shells at the same time. I replaced mine, the vanos bolts and head gasket at 50K miles after hearing too many scare stories. Of note, my bearing shells were immaculate and my vanos bolts were fine too.

Yea I'm guessing 10 hours labour for cams and followers swap. This looks relevant...

http://forums.m3cutters.co.uk/showthread.php?t=89766

with these parts..

http://www.ca-int.co.uk/variants-Y2FyX21ha2U9Ym13JmNhcl90eXBlPWU0Nm0mcGFyZW50X2lkPTE1NzE=.html

http://www.ca-int.co.uk/single_prod-cHJvZF9pZD0yNDM0JmNhcl9tYWtlPWJtdyZjYXJfdHlwZT1lNDZtJmNhdF9pZD02JmNvbXBfaWQ9MTk=.html

So around 1,800 for parts plus labour at 500, around 2,300 to 2,500

Plus any other work you mention in the bottom of the engine
 
pHilli0 said:
pHilli0 said:
BMWZ4MC said:
If you need cams and followers then the cheapest option would be Shrick followers and second hand M3 camshafts. I don't know how much that would set you back but certainly less than new OEM or Shrick camshafts. A large proportion of the cost will be labour, most especially if the cams need swapping.
As Tom has said, it might be a good idea to drop the bottom of the engine and replace the bearing shells at the same time. I replaced mine, the vanos bolts and head gasket at 50K miles after hearing too many scare stories. Of note, my bearing shells were immaculate and my vanos bolts were fine too.

Yea I'm guessing 10 hours labour for cams and followers swap. This looks relevant...

http://forums.m3cutters.co.uk/showthread.php?t=89766

with these parts..

http://www.ca-int.co.uk/variants-Y2FyX21ha2U9Ym13JmNhcl90eXBlPWU0Nm0mcGFyZW50X2lkPTE1NzE=.html

http://www.ca-int.co.uk/single_prod-cHJvZF9pZD0yNDM0JmNhcl9tYWtlPWJtdyZjYXJfdHlwZT1lNDZtJmNhdF9pZD02JmNvbXBfaWQ9MTk=.html

So around 1,800 for parts plus labour at 500, around 2,300 to 2,500

Plus any other work you mention in the bottom of the engine

I'd look to source parts elsewhere than CA......I won't mention Roy or CA again though lest I fill another thread with my frustrated and angry ranting :evil: :D

I suspect labour might be a little more than that but I'm not a mechanic. Z4M-2006 may have a better idea about the labour involved.
 
pHilli0 said:
TomK said:
pHilli0 said:
Good advice, thanks. I have been looking at other people across google with similar noises and you appear to be spot on, a couple of guys saying they had cam / follower issues and needed replacements. I don't have any plan to sell the car so and actually want to get it more track focused, so if i have to spend 2/3k to get this fixed then so be it. Far from ideal but such is life!!
Perfect excuse then to put Schrick csl cams then if you're keeping it and remap it. They work out a little bit less than oem items as it goes. if you're going to all that trouble I'd have a look at the rod bearings as they're a known failure point and mine were showing signs of wear when upgrading my cams, you could also uprate the rod bolts. I think big end bearings were replaced also as was the head gasket during my overhaul as precautionary measures. Engine was on 55k

That does make a lot of sense, I guess I would be looking at 15 hp for the Schrick cam and 15 for the remap? Any recommendation on where to have it done? I have an indy in Stevenage who has a lot of experience with M3s. But if that doesn't work out someone has recommended Phil @ CSC Amersham,..you sound like you would do it yourself but sadly that's not an option for me.

Whilst I might 'sound' like it, there's no way in hell I'd tackle that job! I'm a pretty useless spannerer.
Simpson motorsport did mine, they're excellent for this kind of work, but a long way from you I suspect.
The remap is the issue, not many people work with our ecu's, simpsons wouldn't map mine for instance.
All this might be getting ahead of yourself though, get it inspected, might be nothing. Best of luck!!
 
:D LOL OK fair enough..seems like some history right there....I will just google for a supplier once I know what I need..

Weird how one day everything is calm and the next bang staring at 3k lol.
 
BMWZ4MC said:
I'd look to source parts elsewhere than CA......I won't mention Roy or CA again though lest I fill another thread with my frustrated and angry ranting :evil: :D

I suspect labour might be a little more than that but I'm not a mechanic. Z4M-2006 may have a better idea about the labour involved.

To be fair, Roy came up with a great price for these when I was looking, pissed Simpsons off :D
 
TomK said:
Whilst I might 'sound' like it, there's no way in hell I'd tackle that job! I'm a pretty useless spannerer.
Simpson motorsport did mine, they're excellent for this kind of work, but a long way from you I suspect.
The remap is the issue, not many people work with our ecu's, simpsons wouldn't map mine for instance.
All this might be getting ahead of yourself though, get it inspected, might be nothing. Best of luck!!

Thanks Tom!!! - I have Simpson mentioned lots of times before and I would defo use them if I can get there and back...
You are right, it may be not this.....but I have a little voice saying it really is :P
 
Out of interest Tom, how many miles have you put on your cams and followers since the upgrade? I presume you've had no recurrence of the wear issues? I'm quite likely to be going down the forced induction route and I suspect that a SC and heavy track use can only increase the likelihood of me running into trouble!
 
BMWZ4MC said:
Out of interest Tom, how many miles have you put on your cams and followers since the upgrade? I presume you've had no recurrence of the wear issues? I'm quite likely to be going down the forced induction route and I suspect that a SC and heavy track use can only increase the likelihood of me running into trouble!
Mine weren't really bad at all to be honest, I was doing the CSL box and wanted the CSL cam 288/280 combo. Haven't had the cover off since but the oil has been dropped a few times and looked great.
I'd be more concerned with rod bearing shells and big end bearings with the extra load?
 
pHilli0 said:
Did they come through with the parts then? Roy @ CA?

They'll all be ordered directly from Schrick whether that be CA or Simpsons or anyone else I believe. Depends on exchange rates and mark ups...
 
TomK said:
BMWZ4MC said:
Out of interest Tom, how many miles have you put on your cams and followers since the upgrade? I presume you've had no recurrence of the wear issues? I'm quite likely to be going down the forced induction route and I suspect that a SC and heavy track use can only increase the likelihood of me running into trouble!
Mine weren't really bad at all to be honest, I was doing the CSL box and wanted the CSL cam 288/280 combo. Haven't had the cover off since but the oil has been dropped a few times and looked great.
I'd be more concerned with rod bearing shells and big end bearings with the extra load?
I dread to think how much all that cost, but I bet it was worth it. I do an additional oil change between each scheduled service as the intervals seem excessively long, especially for a car that is tracked. As such my oil looks new most of the time!
My bearing shells were perfect when inspected at 50K but replaced anyway. I'd consider doing so again after another 50K. It's an expensive engine that works hard so I do worry whenever I hear an abnormal noise!
 
Taking my car to my indy this morning to have a chat about the noise and checking the cam / followers.. will post an update later...
 
Went through this exact problem, I went over to CPC for a fix after speaking to them on the phone.

Worth noting i spoke to a few 'reputable' Indys and they had no idea where to look, they wanted to replace the VANOS, rebuild it, take the engine apart etc etc.. To the extent that one re-shimmed it for me, and (with his fingers within mm of the problematic followers) failed to notice the problem.

I had a vote of no confidence in them, took it to CPC who found the dodgy follower(s) very quickly and repaired no problems. To find it, it's just a case of taking the cover off and feeling the followers for flat spots, but repair is quite involved work. It'l cost you a chunk in labour, and the followers are ~900 a set. Sadly, once you've got the engine to a position where you can access them, you've spent so much on labour it's easier to just replace them all. You can of course, simply replace the singular dodgy ones. If you'd like - i still have a bag of ~20 that are perfectly usable lol. Personally, i went for OEM, as i didnt want any aftermarket internals (primarily for insurance reasons, and had no intention of upping power). There is of course the silver lining option - a great excuse to go full shrick cam/followers :)

The main problematic follower has now become the worlds most expensive BMW keyring on my z4 keys.

feel free to PM if you have any Q's.
 
Worth saying, if it IS what we think it is - they should be able to find the problem with your info from this thread by only removing the cover and feeling/looking around (not dissimilar to measuring the shims). You shouldn't need to shell out any money until they find it. frankly i think you're fine to drive it, just don't drive hard, or long.. but don't be concerned about driving to the garage and back.
 
jimmybell said:
Went through this exact problem, I went over to CPC for a fix after speaking to them on the phone.

Worth noting i spoke to a few 'reputable' Indys and they had no idea where to look, they wanted to replace the VANOS, rebuild it, take the engine apart etc etc.. To the extent that one re-shimmed it for me, and (with his fingers within mm of the problematic followers) failed to notice the problem.

I had a vote of no confidence in them, took it to CPC who found the dodgy follower(s) very quickly and repaired no problems. To find it, it's just a case of taking the cover off and feeling the followers for flat spots, but repair is quite involved work. It'l cost you a chunk in labour, and the followers are ~900 a set. Sadly, once you've got the engine to a position where you can access them, you've spent so much on labour it's easier to just replace them all. You can of course, simply replace the singular dodgy ones. If you'd like - i still have a bag of ~20 that are perfectly usable lol. Personally, i went for OEM, as i didnt want any aftermarket internals (primarily for insurance reasons, and had no intention of upping power). There is of course the silver lining option - a great excuse to go full shrick cam/followers :)

The main problematic follower has now become the worlds most expensive BMW keyring on my z4 keys.

feel free to PM if you have any Q's.

Thank you so much for taking the time to post this. It sounds like you have been there, done it and got the t shirt!!! I will send my indy the this forum URL so they can have a good read and do the checking for flat spots as you suggest, in case that isn't somewhere where they would look first. To be honest i just want clear diagnosis at this stage. I am happy to get this sorted, replacing all the followers. And if that is needed then the silver lining option looks pretty tempting indeed! Got my eye on an intake too so the engine needs to be solid.

LOL I bet you look at the follower on your keyring and smile a painful smile!!!!
 
jimmybell said:
Worth saying, if it IS what we think it is - they should be able to find the problem with your info from this thread by only removing the cover and feeling/looking around (not dissimilar to measuring the shims). You shouldn't need to shell out any money until they find it. frankly i think you're fine to drive it, just don't drive hard, or long.. but don't be concerned about driving to the garage and back.

OK that's really useful I will pass it on. Yea I was getting a bit worried about can I drive the car... I've been avoiding it and not going over 3000prm 90% of the time. Looks like CPC really came through..wonder how they knew to look for that whilst others missed it...?
 
Back
Top Bottom