The easy way to remove Vanos studs - hopefully!

Alpina 98

Member
Leighton Buzzard
After reading other methods describing the difficulties related to removing the studs holding the Vamos unit, I have decided to take a slightly different approach.

In order to remove these studs easily with a socket wrench I have Locktited the original nuts back on to the ends of the studs.

The area was degreased with break cleaner followed by giving the car a spin to warn up the engine.

Working quickly the nuts were removed, degreased, then finger tightened back onto the studs using Locktite 648.
The nuts were threaded only on the tips of the studs being carefull not to tighten all the way up to the Vanos, Locktite 648 is extremely strong stuff and would be a pain in the butt the nuts welded themselves to the Vanos.

I shall leave everything to set overnight and fingers crossed remove the studs easily tomorrow

🤞🤞🤞20201215_133012.jpg
 
Tbh, I found it really simple to lift the engine slightly, but if your way works then it's another approach and I guess it saves faffing about underneath?
Will you have enough clearance to extract the studs? Given that the lack of clearance is at the most 5mm then I reckon the stud should move laterally enough to clear everything.

Only slight issue I can see is lining it all up again properly and making sure the gasket is properly positioned.
(Or are you only using your method on the problem studs?)

Of course, if the Loctite loses it's battle with the studs in the head end then you're a day behind :poke: 🤣

Good luck. "He who dares Rodders, he who dares...."
 
(Or are you only using your method on the problem studs?)
I'm looking to remove all the studs by this method. I will replace with stainless studding slightly over length so that two nuts can be locked together for easier future removal of the studs.

I may have to delay removal until Thursday due rain forecast tomorrow.
 
Alpina 98 said:
(Or are you only using your method on the problem studs?)
I'm looking to remove all the studs by this method. I will replace with stainless studding slightly over length so that two nuts can be locked together for easier future removal of the studs.

I may have to delay removal until Thursday due rain forecast tomorrow.

Just a radical thought: if you're replacing the studs anyway, could you not use bolts instead? No need to lock nuts together then.
Still have the issue with aligning the gasket, but maybe it's another option?

As I say, I did mine the accepted 'engine raised' way, but that was mainly because I was doing the water pump at the same time and it seemed easier. Therefore I have no real concept of how much clearance there would be to insert bolts instead. Just brainstorming.
 
enuff_zed said:
Alpina 98 said:
(Or are you only using your method on the problem studs?)
I'm looking to remove all the studs by this method. I will replace with stainless studding slightly over length so that two nuts can be locked together for easier future removal of the studs.

I may have to delay removal until Thursday due rain forecast tomorrow.

Just a radical thought: if you're replacing the studs anyway, could you not use bolts instead? No need to lock nuts together then.
Still have the issue with aligning the gasket, but maybe it's another option?

As I say, I did mine the accepted 'engine raised' way, but that was mainly because I was doing the water pump at the same time and it seemed easier. Therefore I have no real concept of how much clearance there would be to insert bolts instead. Just brainstorming.
The thought did cross my mind about using bolts. Maybe next time. I guess this is work in progress.
 
kis said:
Be interested to see how you get on, keep us posted! :thumbsup:
I will update worts and all. Hopefully the Locktite does its job. If not I will need to replace the seals in my trolley jack!
 
Alpina 98 said:
kis said:
Be interested to see how you get on, keep us posted! :thumbsup:
I will update worts and all. Hopefully the Locktite does its job. If not I will need to replace the seals in my trolley jack!

All gone quiet?
Waiting on trolley jack seals? :poke: :D
 
As I plan to check/service my Vanos unit in the spring, I've bought some half-height M6 nuts to create a lock nut.

Some Internet searching revealed that the Vanos stud threads are M6 with a 1.0mm pitch, so I ordered these:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HEXAGON-...ar=460235392282&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649_

A pair of these has a total thickness of 6.1mm, compared with 4.9/5mm for a typical standard M6 nut - so hopefully there should be a spare 1mm of protruding stud to attach them to.
 
enuff_zed said:
Alpina 98 said:
kis said:
Be interested to see how you get on, keep us posted! :thumbsup:
I will update worts and all. Hopefully the Locktite does its job. If not I will need to replace the seals in my trolley jack!

All gone quiet?
Waiting on trolley jack seals? :poke: :D

Unfortunately the Locktite 648 had gone past its sell by date and didn't set hard. Not one to give up I am using Locktite 638 (extra strong)
I will update as things progress 👍🏻
 
I did say I would give my updates, worts and all!

My latest installment (War an Peace) is to report the looktite 638 managed to remove two studs out of six! I do beleive I am battling cold weather. Technical data shows both loctite 648 and 638 works best at 20 degrees +

Plan C (third attempt) is to use two part standard Araldite

I will give this a couple of days due to the cold before attempting stud extraction number 3 🤞
 

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